With the knife switch 'up' (battery disconnected), are you able to close the lid on the battery compartment?

Thanks

 

Install on an angle(see pic post 6) or just go past center with the blade.

 

Was no big deal once I realized what was up.
Had a bolt, had a tap.

 

I gave it some thought and determined that I didn't want to open the rear battery compartment every time I want to switch the battery off, so I decided to go with a remote key fob on/off switch instead of any one of the manual ones. It's coming tomorrow so it will be installed tomorrow.

 

Kinda defeats the purpose of not having parasitic draw on the battery though no? I mean that thing has to use as much power if not more as the radio memory to power the wireless receiver and relay?

 

Can you post what you used?

The last time I looked into this, contactors that could handle the starter current were about $200-, not counting the circuit to run them.

 

The newer permanent magnet starter motors draw substantially less current than the "original" factory starter motors did. When I switched to a gear-drive starter the current level needed dropped to about 1/4 of the current that the factory starter used. It is much easier on the batteries as well as the rest of the electrical system's components..

The Marine Grade components are designed to handle the regular usage and environment of a Corvette. They are also designed to handle a lot of current based on the older requirements. I have a Marine Circuit breaker as my battery cut-off since it is easy to open or close the contacts and it is still protecting my car's electrical system. They are also not very expensive and are water resistant.

Congratulations on your 4000 "Likes" Bikespace! I couldn't resist being number 4000!! Good work!

 

Thanks! I linked a marine switch back in post 7, and I have one ready to go in my 79 (which has a low-current starter).

That still requires cutting a hole in a panel, or opening a door to use, though.

The relay is a cool idea, I'm just curious what could handle it. The automotive contactors I had seen, at least the ones I'd trust in a car, start at $200- or so, to even handle the low-current stater. Perhaps there are better solutions.

 

@ctmccloskey what starter is this you speak of? Sounds interesting (nice benefits). I forget if you have a big block or small block? If a small block, I might as well get me one. Any fitment concerns?
EDIT: I take it you mean one like this?:

 

Here is a link to the one I just put on. Seems to work very well.
250A 12V Anti-Theft Remote Control Battery Disconnect Switch Kit – DAIER

 

That’s interesting. Looks like no need to get back there and mess with anything when you are ready to go. I’m just curious about the reduction in wire gauge from the terminal to the solenoid/relay (not sure which it is or if it’s both in one?) and the effects of that. But, you say it’s working well, so… I do like the ability to get in and go with just a push of that remote button. Definitely saving this to the file!

 

Exactly.....I just pictured me with luggage in the back that I would have to take out to lockout and again to engage and that's when I thought to look for a remote switch.

 

The will sound negative but It will work until the relay contacts fail which by the looks of that small plastic relay is likely to happen. Its the same situation as golf cart contactors which iv seen fail many times and the 200-400a golf cart contactors are much beefier than that small relay.

I am trying to understand the allure of disconnecting your battery this way? I disconnect mine in the fall when I park it for the winter then reconnect for the spring-fall. I have a stereo with memory presets and its the only thing drawing off my battery when parked. I am installing fuel injection now so that would make me even more leary of everything relying on a small plastic generic chinese relay. I understand we all have different situations and different use scenarios for our cars so it must be advantageous But why a button on a keychain? What if you accidentally hit it while the engines running? Do they all have unique radio frequencies or do you have to worry about a stray signal from another one of these disabling your car at a cruise night show? im willing to bet they use the same signal as another like branded unit.

I did almost pick one of these up for one of my golfcart projects since they are free to me off amazon Vine but I was reluctant because the relay looks to be more like something in the 50-100a range.

 

Good info!

 

You are right, it did come off as negative, however sometimes that's what we need. All products today have a built-in obsolesce, we just don't know what that means in this situation. Maybe in this case it's many more cycles in a golf cart than it would be for a part time use Corvette. I will let everyone know if it fails in the next 5 years.

 

I've used the 'blade' style for 11 years with ease of use and 100% reliability. I would recommend it to any good friend.

 

This is what I did. Removed the center compartment. Drilled and tapped a steel plate, attached negative cable to plate that is attached to quarter turn switch (tried flimsy rotary switch and knife blade switch, not impressed) then a short negative cable of proper size to the battery. Very easy, clean



access and not flimsy.

 

That came out great! Yes, looks sturdy too