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I as just curious if anyone has installed the dogbone gear drive setup rather than the original timing gear and if so, how is it working out?
Originally Posted by Smilie 388
they are NOISY !
straight cut gears
^^^THIS^^^
Looks good on paper, but in practice; not so much. They're Very Noisy. Emulate "blower whine". Approaching regrettable.
And entirely Unnecessary in any but Heavily modified motors with huge cams & huge valve springs.
Also, avoid double row roller chain sets; also unnecessary & some Require clearancing/grinding face of block.
Per your profile: Seems yours has little to no internal engine modifications.
? Which motor does your '72 have ?
Most likely best-served by a Quality Heavy-Duty, Single-Row roller chain timing set.
From the experiences of people that have done it online, it seems the general consensus is that it’s a labor and money intensive investment with the only benefits being in race engines where incredibly precise valve events are needed. You don’t have to worry about a timing chain stretching, but seriously, that’s really only a problem after tens of thousands of miles or decades of use. Like others have said, they do sound neat with the straight cut gears, although some people might be disappointed when you pop the hood and there’s no supercharger there.
I used a set in a moderate street 289 Ford I rebuilt over 20 years ago. Took it out the next weekend and replaced it with a double roller chain set. It was so loud, you could hear the car coming 2 blocks away.
^^^THIS^^^
Looks good on paper, but in practice; not so much. They're Very Noisy. Emulate "blower whine". Approaching regrettable.
And entirely Unnecessary in any but Heavily modified motors with huge cams & huge valve springs.
Also, avoid double row roller chain sets; also unnecessary & some Require clearancing/grinding face of block.
Per your profile: Seems yours has little to no internal engine modifications. ? Which motor does your '72 have ?
Most likely best-served by a Quality Heavy-Duty, Single-Row roller chain timing set.
Just a stock 350 roaring 200 hp. haha It seems like it would be quite tight and therefore efficient/reliable; I would not install it if I were to do any engine work. And that work would only involve a mild cam, heads and intake. And of course new timing chain.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
That's been around for a very long time. It was known as a "Jackson Gear Drive" in the 1970's. It serves no practical purpose whatsoever other than making your car sound like it has a blower. It wasn't used by any serious racer - a good chain is much more efficient.
I had one a long time ago. This was before they made them in both quiet and loud versions. They sound a bit like a bad power steering pump that is low on fluid. Sold it and never thought about it ever again.
I like the GM HD Morse chain setup. No plastic gears or block clearancing required. No need for more than that unless you are going roller cam.
Last edited by stingr69; Aug 15, 2025 at 07:12 AM.
They do make sets that are quieter. The argument about timing accuracy I just say it really isn't that big a deal. I'd use a belt drive before I'd use a gear drive.. stick to a good roller chain.. Bill Jenkins used the GM nylon coated gear sets to dampen harmonics but he wasn't concerned about running thousands of miles. Running a gear drive won't buy you anything .
OP kansas123
For your apparent needs, a good quality timing set (aka speed set) can be had for less than $25 to over $250. Heck, Melling even has a timing set (P/N 40520) w/ a HY-VO® aka Morse® aka Link-Belt® chain; sells for nearly $400. At one time, sets of that grade were OE in some GM race crates.
My suggestion for pre-86 Gen I sbc is a Large-Pitch, Heavy-Duty Single Row timing set: single-row chain w/ large diameter Seamless rollers; Cloyes P/N C-3055 under $40 OR Melling P/N 40500 under $65.
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I put one in a small block in the 90's and it was loud but you dont get any chain slop and it will never fail. Back then they were all the same and very loud. I have one currently in my 68 427 and its advertised as a quiet, I beleive it was PRW. It was very expensive compared to a chain, but there is no slop, no lash and no way for it to fail. It is still audible but once the fan comes on I cant hear it and when I get above idle I cant hear it above my pipes....
I put one in a small block in the 90's and it was loud but you dont get any chain slop and it will never fail. Back then they were all the same and very loud. I have one currently in my 68 427 and its advertised as a quiet, I beleive it was PRW. It was very expensive compared to a chain, but there is no slop, no lash and no way for it to fail. It is still audible but once the fan comes on I cant hear it and when I get above idle I cant hear it above my pipes.... https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Oqzo70fzV-o
Great looking HotWheels car !
Then, as he said: Hey y'all, watch this (no way for it to fail) !
Ya might not hear it while inside side-piped C3 cabin's reverb-chamber, but Everybody outside does.
I have serious hearing deficits in upper registers; I hear the gear drive whine as recorded inside cabin.
*seems Melling did offer its version of sbc gear drive (P/Ns 48400 & 48400Q) But seems Melling has discontinued them.
If so, wonder why no more Melling sbc gear drive ?
I like gear drives; in their natural place e.g. chevy & ford inline 6 OE helical sets.
Very old school.
I remember dyno tests from back in the day, said they actually cost power due to vibrations affecting timing accuracy & fluctuations.
Serious racers these days use a belt drive for that exact same but reverse reason, it dampens timing variations.
Or they just go to a crank trigger for the same reason, better timing.