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I have a '77 350 with Power Brakes. It has a new MS and (4) rebuilt calipers from Texas Calipers. I tried to bleed the system with clear hoses and a check valve only to create a hydraulic mess. I am considering the reverse method since my system is very clean now. I know there are many types of power bleeders but all I want is a proven system with detailed step by step directions so I can get this done.
Any help would be great. Thanks
The Phoenix Reverse Bleeder System is the one that I have been using for decades. It allows you to push the fluid UP towards the master cylinder. Once you learn how to use the system it is really great the way it works. I have used my reverse bleeder on Boats, Motorcycles, Small airplanes and GM hydraulic clutches as well as my two Corvettes.
I have been bleeding my brakes myself for along time. I even "Flush" the brake fluid every 5 years because it is not that hard a thing to do, with the right tool of course. The instructions for the reverse bleeder that I got were very basic. Fortunately there are videos online about the Phoenix Reverse Bleeder most likely on You-Tube. I love it when the new brake fluid finally reaches the MC you see it coming in and changing the color of the old fluid. You remove the excess brake fluid and move to the next wheel. I use a plastic bowl below the master cylinder in case of any spills along with lots of towels or rags. A turkey baster is used to control the fluid level in the MC.
While using the pump and pushing the fluid UP towards the MC you should "tap" on the sides of the calipers and on any brass blocks in the brake fluid system. This light tapping helps release the bubbles trapped in the system and helps get them up and out of there. When starting with freshly rebuilt calipers it takes a bit longer to get all the air out. I rebuilt my calipers and learned this the hard way. The kit I bought from Phoenix came with an assortment of adapters some of which I have never used. I have rebuilt my reverse pump already just to keep it in tip top shape.
On the "shelves of disgrace" are the Motive Bleeding System and assorted vacuum and pressurized gadgets that were supposed to make bleeding the brakes easier. The Phoenix is my Go-to for anything to do with the brakes.
Just the opposite above I've had good luck with a pressure bleeder that attaches to the top of the master cylinder. It can be used with fluid in the pressure tank or without.
Typically the kit comes with a top plate and with really junk chains to seal the plate to the top of the master cylinder. I use two big "C" clamps instead of the chains to seal the top plate to the master cylinder.
Assuming you have properly bled the MC (nose down slightly) try gravity bleeding the system before you start spending money on bleeders. you can bleed one wheel at a time or open all the bleeders. i do them one at a time. you can do other stuff while this is happening just keep an eye on the MC and do not let it run dry.
Pat
<<<<< Click on my avatar <<<<< and look for photo albums about brake bleeding.
If you buy a new Motive Pressure Tank kit, pitch the birdfeeder master lid adaptor and make your own.
Or.
With any luck, you can find a used one on EBay cheap. Usually, they only need a new clear hose and a thorough rinsing of Acetone.
I like the Motive pressure bleeder used dry. I did need to modify the clamp setup as others have already pointed out. My solution was a bit different. Added a block of wood and 2 pieces of scrap steel. Chains work much better now.
I'm a fan of reverse bleeding. And I also have a Phoenix reverse bleeder.
Recently I lent my Phoenix bleeder out to a fellow C3 enthusiast. He couldn't get it to work.
Inspection upon return turned up the check valve in the end of the plunger cylinder was jambed shut. Cleaned it out with Metho and its working fine again. But this fellow couldn't figure it out.
So perhaps the Phoenix bleeder isn't for everyone.
I don't always agree with Chris (above) on everything. But he's all over it on this one in my humble opinion.
No one bleeder will necessarily give you a firmer pedal.
Getting ALL the air out will.
Which method gets all the air out of the system is the winner.
And that can be different from vehicle to vehicle.
I have several methods up my sleeve as a professional mechanic. Sometimes we pull out all the stops and use several methods to get all the air out.
C3 brakes are notorious for being difficult. Must be a thousand threads on here with people having difficulty.
Just be prepared. The reverse bleeder pushes fluid and thus air upwards. Air likes to go up. It doesnt like to go down.
On a C3, sometimes you need to push both ways to get all the air out. And sometimes they bleed up no trouble at all.
No one bleeder will necessarily give you a firmer pedal.
Getting ALL the air out will.
Which method gets all the air out of the system is the winner.
And that can be different from vehicle to vehicle.
I have several methods up my sleeve as a professional mechanic. Sometimes we pull out all the stops and use several methods to get all the air out.
C3 brakes are notorious for being difficult. Must be a thousand threads on here with people having difficulty.
Just be prepared. The reverse bleeder pushes fluid and thus air upwards. Air likes to go up. It doesnt like to go down.
On a C3, sometimes you need to push both ways to get all the air out. And sometimes they bleed up no trouble at all.
And tap on the calipers lightly with a hammer to jar any air bubbles stuck in there. I have always done that.
It was in thr middle of 2 plastic hoses , one attached to the Bleeder then the check valve in the middle and another hose on the end. As I would pump the brake pedal the fluid would go through the check valve and the old fluid and air would be trapped so as not to do back into the brake sysytem.
I built one of these years ago and still use it on multiple old cars. Use a single large C-clamp to hold it on. I have an in-line regulator with a ball valve to help drop the pressure a little more smoothly before taking it off. Dirt cheap and works well.
It was in thr middle of 2 plastic hoses , one attached to the Bleeder then the check valve in the middle and another hose on the end. As I would pump the brake pedal the fluid would go through the check valve and the old fluid and air would be trapped so as not to do back into the brake sysytem.
I just use a empty coffee can and pump the crap out of the brakes using a clear tube with the end under the surface.
Use a rubber mallet and tap on the calipers.
Yes, they are a PITA.
And yes, I have wasted gallons of fluid. I just keep going around the four corners until the it's clear....start with the rear until it looks good. Three people one pumping the brakes, one keeping the MC full and me doing the bleeders.
Mine 74 new MC, brake lines, calipers.......It just sucks.
All told probably 2 hours - let it sit overnight tap the calipers and do a final bleed.
I should add - Mine has power Brakes start the engine and test the firmness of the pedal periodically, with the engine off you'll get a false firm pedal. I have idea why - you'll know when its right.
Last edited by Dream Car C3; Sep 2, 2025 at 03:47 PM.
Reason: Add note
Brake Bleeder System needed
