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Thanks for the wisdom on possible cuases to my issues. Hoping to see how the clutch works today after adjusting it some more last night but will have to wait till the road dry up. Will have to find a good mechanic in the area that works on old cars and can Blanchard the flywheel.
For the starter, the exhaust was blocking one of the bolts, had to remove the headers for both removing the old 10MT starter and installing the new one. Exhaust went back on after I got the new starter hooked up.
Blanchard Grinding Not typically done by mechanic. You'll typically find that service done by a local or area Automotive Machine Shop; not just any machine shop, keywords Automotive Machine Shop. Same shop that does the actual machinework of boring engine blocks' cylinders, decking blocks, grinding crankshafts, milling/surfacing cylinder heads.
Just to close the loop on this, I did receive and install the Rock Auto WAI Global 3510 NPG starter. I was encouraged it came with a detailed dyno sheet. While it also came with two starter mount bolts, one was WAY too short. What I needed was another 4 5/16 bolt, available at NAPA as Part # NOE89925001 or Dorman 678-107 at O'Reily's. 5 bucks, not a heavy lift. One installation tip is to loosed your flywheel cover to move it around while seating the starter, that way you may not need to grind the cover for clearance.
Overall, much smaller footprint. It does sound different since it is a gear reduction unit but mounted right up with no shims (like the original) and engaged smoothly with no odd sounds. Spun the engine much faster with less amperage draw. Win/win on my end. Original starter and rear support bracket, heat shield and wire support bracket boxed up and saved.
a bolt-pair consisting of a long and a short is correct for the (other) PMGR PG260 (w/ straight-across aka inline mounting bolt pattern): seems they boxed the wrong pair.
As I expected, new starter appears to meet, if not exceed, your requirements. New starter's considerably smaller mass (and length) trumps any need for a support bracket. A phone call might net another bolt or two.
*-add-*
These have Permanent Magnets (Not wire wound electro-magnetic field coils). If you're ever tempted to bang on this starter; Don't ! A sharp strike to case can crack the magnets that're tightly held & just inside of case. This true of any starter with permanent magnets. How do I know? I learned lots about PM starters from that escapade.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Sep 7, 2025 at 06:33 PM.
So I took the vette out for a quick spin again with new clutch adjustment. I think the clutch is still good, no slipping on starting out or issues when changing gears at all. I think my problem is either a plug or wire from having to take them all apart to get new starter in. Will have to check each wire but might just replace all the plugs and wires with new to make sure they are good, no idea how old these ones are.
So I took the vette out for a quick spin again with new clutch adjustment. I think the clutch is still good, no slipping on starting out or issues when changing gears at all. I think my problem is either a plug or wire from having to take them all apart to get new starter in. Will have to check each wire but might just replace all the plugs and wires with new to make sure they are good, no idea how old these ones are.
I checked all the wire with my Ohm meter, all seemed ok. Will probably look to change them out in the spring with tune up. Pulled two of the plugs I had to pull doing my starter, one was fouled so found culprit cylinder. I had dropped it when trying to re install and zero'd the gap. Reset the gap and reinstalled, will get new plugs and replace all but hoping this will solve my issue when I try another test run tomorrow.
I know the previous own had done some engine work and this has around 400 - 425 horse power, does that change which kind of spark plug I need? Has Autolight 75 plugs at the moment.
I checked all the wire with my Ohm meter, all seemed ok. Will probably look to change them out in the spring with tune up. Pulled two of the plugs I had to pull doing my starter, one was fouled so found culprit cylinder. I had dropped it when trying to re install and zero'd the gap. Reset the gap and reinstalled, will get new plugs and replace all but hoping this will solve my issue when I try another test run tomorrow.
I know the previous own had done some engine work and this has around 400 - 425 horse power, does that change which kind of spark plug I need? Has Autolight 75 plugs at the moment.
No, performance changes do not always require a hotter or colder plug; but certainly may need to change. Autolite are good plugs. Suggest keep the 75s until you've settled the tuning, You may discover there's a need to change; or not.
Assuming yours has OE big coil-in-cap HEI dist. Many tuneup specs call for 0.060" plug gap. I prefer 0.040" - 0.045". Suggest you email member Lars and request his free white paper on how to recurve and improve your HEI dist. Like the other motor stuff, your dist have already seen a pro's hands,
Just to close the loop on this, I did receive and install the Rock Auto WAI Global 3510 NPG starter. I was encouraged it came with a detailed dyno sheet. While it also came with two starter mount bolts, one was WAY too short. What I needed was another 4 5/16 bolt, available at NAPA as Part # NOE89925001 or Dorman 678-107 at O'Reily's. 5 bucks, not a heavy lift. One installation tip is to loosed your flywheel cover to move it around while seating the starter, that way you may not need to grind the cover for clearance.
Overall, much smaller footprint. It does sound different since it is a gear reduction unit but mounted right up with no shims (like the original) and engaged smoothly with no odd sounds. Spun the engine much faster with less amperage draw. Win/win on my end. Original starter and rear support bracket, heat shield and wire support bracket boxed up and saved.
In reading this thread I also went with the WAI 3510 NPG starter. Like mentioned, mine was missing a bolt too. Used the stated part number to source from O’Reillys but mine also came with a gasket. Looks like it is made to go between the block and starter. Did you use that?
In reading this thread I also went with the WAI 3510 NPG starter. Like mentioned, mine was missing a bolt too. Used the stated part number to source from O’Reillys but mine also came with a gasket. Looks like it is made to go between the block and starter. Did you use that?
Good choice
IIRC
Seems, that WAI Global 3510 NPG starter is also Marine-rated
Seems, that "gasket" is really supplied as more of a shield to help (but not necessarily assure) keeping water spray from pushing past starter gap and into bellhousing (and vice versa).
Just my WAG: perhaps shield also helps prevent some flammable bilge gases from reaching starter (which does arc during routine ops). WAG Dunno ?
Your choice: use it or not.
Interesting on the gasket perhaps being intended for marine purposes. Tjmaniez, to answer your question, yes my starter did come with a gasket but no, I didn't use it. I felt it bolted up easier without it.
So I sourced the two bolts, each the same size. When I went to snug the inside one down it became clear the bolt was too long. I had to put a spacer in which seems odd given what others have said. Anyone else run into this? The bolts are the 4-5/16 inch length. I put some decent pressure on it but it seemed to be at the end of the thread and didn’t want to break it off.
pics are helpful here.
perhaps you sourced Wrong bolt
which Brand and Part Number is the bolt you sourced. ?
pic of Both bolts side by side ?
Your pic of YOUR new starter that you have (not a pic from an ad) ?
? That 4-5/16" length --- is that measured Under Head OR Overall ?
.
it is the Dorman 678-002 bolt that others have noted they used. The starter, the bolts, etc are exactly what JLMICCA showed in his pictures. That is why it is confusing.
Just because someone or several used that Dorman 678-002 starter bolt, doesn't necessarily mean it's the right bolt for your starter. I suspect that bolt is too long and ain't right for a PG260-type starter. To help alleviate further doubt, suggest buy a pair a GM starter bolts from local GM dealership parts dept.
Just to close the loop on this, I did receive and install the Rock Auto WAI Global 3510 NPG starter. I was encouraged it came with a detailed dyno sheet. While it also came with two starter mount bolts, one was WAY too short. What I needed was another 4 5/16 bolt, available at NAPA as Part # NOE89925001 or Dorman 678-107 at O'Reily's. 5 bucks, not a heavy lift. One installation tip is to loosed your flywheel cover to move it around while seating the starter, that way you may not need to grind the cover for clearance.
Overall, much smaller footprint. It does sound different since it is a gear reduction unit but mounted right up with no shims (like the original) and engaged smoothly with no odd sounds. Spun the engine much faster with less amperage draw. Win/win on my end. Original starter and rear support bracket, heat shield and wire support bracket boxed up and saved.
Originally Posted by tjmaniez
.
it is the Dorman 678-002 bolt that others have noted they used. The starter, the bolts, etc are exactly what JLMICCA showed in his pictures. That is why it is confusing.
To tjmaiez:
NO
seems JLMICCA used Dorman P/N 678-107.
while, seems You tjmaiez, used Dorman P/N 678-102 P/N 678-002.
*two different bolts ! apples and oranges.
again, when all else fails, go get some correct bolts from local GM parts dept
Last edited by Rebelyell; Mar 20, 2026 at 10:47 AM.
To tjmaiez:
NO
seems JLMICCA used Dorman P/N 678-107.
while, seems You tjmaiez, used Dorman P/N 678-102.
*two different bolts ! apples and oranges.
again, when all else fails, go get some correct bolts from local GM parts dept
Did you mean 002? I can't find a Dorman 678-102.
Dorman 678-107: Starter Bolt, Type 2 Long, 3/8-16 x 4-5/16", GM 4.4L, 5.0L, 5.7L.
Dorman 678-002: Starter Bolt, Type 1 Long, 3/8-16 x 4-5/8", GM 5.0L, 5.7L.
Edit: My Googlefu has failed me, if you search for "Dorman 678-102" the results are not the same as if you search for "Dorman P/N 678-107"
JT
Last edited by jthornton; Mar 22, 2026 at 08:03 AM.
Did you mean 002? I can't find a Dorman 678-102.
Dorman 678-107: Starter Bolt, Type 2 Long, 3/8-16 x 4-5/16", GM 4.4L, 5.0L, 5.7L.
Dorman 678-002: Starter Bolt, Type 1 Long, 3/8-16 x 4-5/8", GM 5.0L, 5.7L.
