I am going through the same issue with my '72 LT-1. Rebel, I like the WAI Global 3510NPG you linked on Rock Auto. I like that is also has the R terminal (which I will need) and comes with the needed bolts. Weird thing is the listing under 1972 Corvette mentions automatic trans and of course I have a manual. Here's the link of what I am seeing: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+drive,4172

Is there any difference between the automatic and manual trans application when it comes to the starter? Do you know if this works with both?

I will be storing the original Hi torque starter for number matching issues since my car is a survivor. The reason I am opting not to simply rebuid the existing starter is I like the idea of less amp draw through the original battery cables. Yes, ultimately the battery cables can be replaced but the positive cable is a PIA and in my car snakes well under the transmission shielding make R&R more difficult while trying to maintaining the survivor look.

 

I understand yours needs an "R" terminal. Will attempt to advise you on likely PMGR PG260 starter for your use, But first:
Can you tell us (1) does your pair of OE starter mounting bolts have an (A) staggered aka diagonal pattern OR (B) straight across pattern ?
Can you tell us (2) does your Flywheel's Ring Gear have (A) 153 teeth OR (B) 168 teeth ?

 

Thanks for the quick response. The bolts are staggered. My understanding is that means my flywheel has 168 teeth but if there is another way of knowing for sure, hopefully someone will be able to let me know.

 

Rest assured; staggered OE bolt pattern = Larger diameter Flywheel with 168 Teeth
I see no reason why that WAI Global P/N 3510 NPG starter at RA would not fit your '72 with points ignition and staggered OE starter; If it were mine, I'd try it. I don't see the auto trans tag as an issue. However, as I advised another gent just days ago, it's unlikely but possible the nosecone opening in your Dust Shield may need slight trimming if IF new nosecone's a little wider.

These starters weigh about 9 lb each while OE 10MT weighs a little over 20 lb. That makes a difference when on your back under a car-truck.

Also, I've bought both starters and alternators from DB Electric in Tennessee and never had any issue. Free ground shipping. One year warranty. I've always received what I ordered, no delay and never needed to return anything.

This PMGR PG260 starter is essentially same as the WAI Global piece although this one's also marine rated (good). It has R terminal as well & is staggered too. But it no longer ships with bolts, although DB sells them. However, if this were my responsibility and I needed correct bolts separately; I'd get em at local GM dealership parts dept. Requires a pair of GM P/N 12338064

starter
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0031-m.html

bolt kit
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...r-starter.html

 

delete dupe

 

The staggered pattern starters that fit the large flexplate comes from the factory with aluminum nose cones on automatic transmission applications. The factory manual transmission with large flywheels use a cast iron nose cone. The aluminum nose cone style factory starter does not work with the manual trans application.

If you use the small flywheel setup, there is only the aluminum nose cone setup for both transmissions. No iron nose cone for the small size bellhousing applications.

All of that is out the window if you decide to use the GM permanent magnet gear reduction starter. They do not need different nose cones depending on the transmission application. they come in-line bolt pattern or diagonal bolt pattern.

The PMGR model with the "R" terminal seems to be discontinued from Remy, but other manufacturers seem to sell a similar starter with the R terminal.

EDIT: the other thing I forgot to mention is that the online application lookup software we typically use to buy our stuff will not list these starters. You need to search by the starter part number once you know which part you need.

 

^^^THIS^^^

 

Thanks for the info. I ordered the WAI Global P/N 3510 NPG starter with bolts on Rock Auto. I'll report back when I have it in hand and let you know how the install goes.

 

^^^THIS^^^
ALWAYS Double-Check with the product Manufacturer.
By the same token, don't rely solely on Summit catalog/site for product info about any other brand than Summit.
Just as there are many REMY P/Ns not shown on RA site; same applies to WAI Global (WAI Global has a pretty good part-product lookup site as well). Same for DENSO/Nippon Denso. For some things, it really helps to KNOW from experience what fits what and why. I don't expect a top tech man with Lotsa Honda personal experience (BUT Only Honda experience) to know much about Chevy starters & vice versa. Hence, boat starters can be an even better choice for cars.

 

So I checked the WAI webcite and it indicates the 3510 NPG does fit a '72 Corvette 350 although it's not clear to me if the bolts will be included as seen on the Rock Auto listing. I did also speak with db electrical and they mention they no loger carry the bolts. They verbally confirmed the starter in the link fit the '72 Corvette but their search engine only shows there version of the 10 MT starter so I went with the 3510 NPG unit with bolts. (If no bolts included, I source GM12338064 at a dealership.) Regardless, I'll post what I get when I get it and let y'all know.

 

Don't ask ME, I'm tryin' to wrap my head around this $25 starter that appears same as the db $92 sdr0031-M marine starter I linked previously. Dont ask me, I dunno.

https://www.thesouthernsportz.com/pr...-m-aih43-f0396

 

I came across something similar with a severely discounted db starter in the $25-30 range. It's truly amazing that the more your search the more you find. At least if it's a scam, I'd only be out $25.

 

my best GUESS, the one I linked MAY be an outlet for all sorts of new but returned items; not only car parts. GUESS

 

 

The powermaster "original look" starter part # is 3510. I wonder if they are the same starter or made in the same factory
Pat

 

I suggest not at all. Instead, they're apples and oranges. That Powermaster P/N 3510 is clearly a clone of the big old heavy direct drive D-R 10MT as was OE on all C3. It certainly has the "original look" of a 10MT; it apparently has field coils and does Not have permanent magnets. Have no idea where it's made.

*for those who have an interest in Delco-Remy history and it's brilliant founder Charles Kettering, look at this link when you have motivation & time for study.
http://www.delcoremyhistory.com/index.htm

 

So I bought the starter recommended here from rock auto. Came with the mounting bolts, thought about getting the Remy starter but finding bolts was difficult or expensive so coming with the starter was definitely a good option. Had to remove the exhaust manifold and spark plugs to get pipes out so wrench could reach the start bolt. Installed new start and everything fired up with no issue. Turns on everytime now!






New issue now. When driving clutch engages in driveway to turn car around fine. Pedal seems high when clutch engages butbwas like thst when I bought the car. Started driving down the road and car starts jerking like it's being held back! Pushed in clutch and car coasts smooth, assume clutch isn't fully engaging?

Tried moving adjustment down Z bar towards firewall a little bit but still exhibiting same jerkyness when accelerating but no issies when coasting. Going to try further adjustment of bar but wondering if I'm missing something?

Clutch shot and needs replacement?

spark plug or wire issues issue start install?

Damage from push starting car when starter wasn't working?

Let me know your thoughts.

 

Little additional info now. Just went back and adjusted my clutch Z-Bar again. I had removed the spring and did the adjustment then thought, "what am I putting 5lbs of pressure against?", so I hooked the spring back up, did the 5lbs of pressure and now have free travel in the pedal! played with the adjustment nuts a little to reduce free play down to about 1in travel of pedal in car. Will try this out tomorrow on test drive and see how this goes.

Still, let me know your thoughts on previous post if there could be anything else that might be causing this issue. Car seems to idle and run fine, revs up without issues.

 

I'm noting how the old larger 10MT starter seems to have been removed without dropping the header or plugs; BUT installing the new smaller PMGR starter required dropping header and a couple plugs; I didn't expect or understand that quandary. But as expected, seems PMGR is working to your satisfaction.

Clutch WAG(s):
a) One or more plug wires damaged or not secured.
b) Ya know, the OE-type clutch friction disks are "sprung" meaning the center part of its hub (with the splines) is made to slip n slide a little independently of rest of disk, And that motion is dampened by a few coil springs that lay on their sides around the hub. It's possible that something in there broke or became dislodged while either someone had vigorously "popped" the clutch too often OR OR similarly, the disk was shocked too hard or too many times when bump-starting car. I can't KNOW if any of that's what happened here. But if anything in clutch hub is pooched, that'll require a new clutch. If you plan to R&R clutch, also Pre-arrange with local auto machine shop that they can resurface/grind your flywheel if it is found to have bad hot spots, heat cracks and/or gouges. And, if your flywheel's ring gear is badly worn, machine shop can R&R that as well. Do be apprised those flywheels are typically surfaced when new via "Blanchard Grinding" method and Not on a lathe. Resurfacing should also be via Blanchard.
c) clutch is simply shot & gave up the ghost. Again, pay close attention to Flywheel's potential for damage/resurfacing.

 

Thanks for the wisdom on possible cuases to my issues. Hoping to see how the clutch works today after adjusting it some more last night but will have to wait till the road dry up. Will have to find a good mechanic in the area that works on old cars and can Blanchard the flywheel.

For the starter, the exhaust was blocking one of the bolts, had to remove the headers for both removing the old 10MT starter and installing the new one. Exhaust went back on after I got the new starter hooked up.