Nice work!

 

Thanks!

It was a good starting point for repairing the car, and I’m happy with the results.

 

Since the consensus is DEI, and…
1. Economy
2. No adhesive
3. Decent insulation

I’m gonna try out the 50110 BoomMat.
DEI claims 85% heat absorption, and…

” Where to use:

• Floor pans
• Fire walls
• Transmission tunnels
• Behind back seats
• Inner fender wells
• Trunk floors
• Rear quarter panels
• Under headliners
• Kick panels “

Also bought a roll of the 10408 Cool Tape to seal the exposed edges of the polyester / fiberglass 50110, and secure to the floor as need be.

It’ll take a while for me to say how well it works - Seattle Fall is on the way, and I still have an oil pan & radiator to install.

BTW… I would have preferred no adhesive, but I think there’s no escaping something to hold it down. That’s why I opted for tape.
And I’ll make sure to lay out a template before cutting.

 

Alright, guys.
If you’re following this thread…

I’m in the process of making the template for the trans tunnel interior. Good thing I have plenty of cardboard lying around…

Since the molded foam shield/seal/doo-dad for the bellhousing-to-body is currently unavailable, I bought some Duck Brand pipe insulation.

The engine needs a good degreasing, so I’m not sweating sacrificial 2” pipe insulation* wrapped in DEI foil tape as a short-term substitution.

[*mentioned on the forum as a “quick-fix” for the bellhousing-to-body seal … we'll see how it works wrapped in foil tape.]

Next big thought, important info I’ve spent time researching in the next post…

…to be continued!

 

For all of what I’ve read here, and everything I went through with my squarebody Suburban…

It’s been said so many times before, but the entire point of a radiator fan is to remove heat from the engine compartment.

It does that in two ways:
1) pull air through the radiator to keep the engine cool (relatively)
2) push engine compartment air out and away from the car

#2 is a critical factor. It’s why the trans tunnel seal, radiator seals, air dam, and fender/firewall ‘splash’ shields were installed.

Once the heat has been removed from the radiator, it still needs to be evacuated from the engine compartment.

I was able to do this on the Suburban with a [better than OEM] fan, and REMOVING some undershielding - she don’t have louvered fenders like a C3 … and sits higher, with a better CFM mechanical fan. [Still hits ~210° at the hottest, 190° thermostat, 454 swap, larger radiator, no issues so far.]

We’ve got these beautiful roadsters, practically sitting on the ground, so - yeah - get that heat out through the fender louvers/vents/gills/etc.. and if the triangular shields are in good shape & flow correctly, heat removed.

Block/shield/seal the trans tunnel and force that hot air down and away, through the louvers or down-out under the car. Whatever it takes to keep the fiberglass from absorbing any heat.

I’m still on the fence about whether electric fans can perform #2, knowing darn well that they’ll take care of #1.

Thanks for reading - I just wanted to reiterate the importance of the 2 functions of a radiator fan.