Hi everyone

The timing cover leak or front seal leak is still there. I thought to myself:

Now that the hood, radiator, Water pump, hoses and most of the pulleys are gone. It would be stupid not to replace the gasket and seal of the timing cover that is leaking.

I have all the seals already (gaskets for cover and one-piece oil pan gasket) I just have to order some new ARP stainless bolts for the oil pan and timing cover.

My questions are:
1. Is a harmonic balancer puller tool safe to use on these SBC engines?

2. How do I know where the exact position of the balancer (+mark) was when reinstalled? This has to exactly right? No?

3. Remove balancer -> drain oil from pan -> remove pan -> remove timing cover -> replace seal and gasket -> reinstal.
Am I missing something important?

4. How do I know that it’s not the timing cover itself that is the issue? How do I know that it’s not warped?

 

I would replace the harmonic balancer too, it looks like it is ready to fall apart.

 

What looks odd about the balancer?
It is a bit dirty in the centre and I painted it Chevy Orange some years ago.

I can’t seem any damage.
Do you see anything damaged?

 

The issue with the balancer is the rubber between the outside weight and center hub can dry rot and/or shrink causing the outer weight to shift throwing off the balance and causing grief trying to time the engine, or worse, it comes apart and destroys things. There are places that will rebuild them. You will have to do research. Or you can buy a new one. AND There may be nothing wrong with yours.

yes a harmonic balancer remover will be needed to remove your balancer. I like to use an installation tool as well.
it has a keyway so it can only go one one way.

 

I would replace/repair the damper. It is over 50 years old and shows oil on the rubber. I used Damper Dudes in CA. Less than a week turn around. Jerry

 

Forgot to mention. Belgian here.

 

See my thread in the C2 Section for replacement of the balancer.

Lars

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...em-post-4.html

 

Yes it's safe to use a puller. Yes use one designed for your engine.
Yes replace that old balancer while it's off. Purchase a nice one with timing marks out to 50 degrees and 90 degree marks for adjusting valves. You will DEFINITELY be glad you did in years to come.
You can't put it on wrong. It's keyed.
You can see where the leak is. No brainer. Take a straight edge. Lay it across the gasket surface, is it flat?
On the oil pan and timing cover, straighten, hammer flat anything that isn't flat.
Good luck.

 

Lars

 

Over time / mileage, it is Normal that the seal's lip (in timing cover) will wear a groove into the damper's (balancer) "snout". Leaks follow and that oil degrades & softens damper's rubber & delaminates rubber bonds with damper. The rubber detaches from both the damper's hub and outer inertia ring. The timing mark becomes erratic and entirely, uselessly unreliable. These conditions are Very common; especially after some 50 years.

If IF again IF damper's rubber has Not been ruined, the snout's groove can be easily repaired with a repair sleeve; brand names Redi-sleeve, Quick-sleeve etc.

Perhaps avoid the "maybe", "conjecture" or "IF"; suggest simply replace Both damper and timing cover seal.

DO R&R Timing Cover gasket as well.

Timing cover may be warped; especially if it has be removed by inexperience person who has pried on it without care. If warped, that can usually be straightened. It does NOT become warped by normal service/use.

* Be prepared to Replace timing chain & sprocket set. OE upper Cam sprocket's teeth is/was clad with Nylon plastic. That cladding is notorious for cracking and breaking off in chunks. Initially white in color; plastic becomes tan or brown over time. The chunks WILL foul your oil pump's pickup screen. The Sprocket's missing chunks WILL cause both cam & ignition timing to suffer greatly.
Again, strongly suggest you prepare to replace Timing Set as a discrete assembly. And, as above, these conditions are Very common; especially after some 50 years.

** suggest you denote "Belgium" in your profile which appears to left of each of your posts.

 

Be aware there are at least 3 different versions of the SBC harmonic balancer, that are keyed differently, and will greatly affect the timing of your car. Get the correct one for your year, and even then check that the key to balancer-timing-mark-angle is the same in degrees on both.

Is yours a 77 like your profile?
Is the engine still original?


Yours does look like it may be version two, and correct for a 77. It lines up with the 2nd t. cover bolt, and is ~10* to the left of one of the three attachment bolts. Presuming your engine is at TDC now.

 

The balancers do get old and you will see the rubber cracks, I believe it's a good sport to start

 

I’ve made the following list of parts for the whole job.


What sprocket & chain kit do I best use? 99% shure the OEM L48 sprocket & chain are in there. Edelbrock kits are easily available here in Belgium.


Do I still mis something else?


Here is the list:

• Dorman 594-012 Engine Harmonic Balancer

• Proform 66514 Harmonic Balancer removal/install tool

• ARP 2342502 Chevy Sb Balancer Bolt kit

• ARP 4001502 Timing Cover Bolt Kit

• Sprocket & chain kit? (For oem l48 camshaft)

 

Can you order from Rock Auto ? OR is Amazon best for YOU ?

Does YOUR 1977 have L48 or L82 engine ?
Which Engine Code is in YOUR VIN ? is it "L" or "X" ??

Do you have Timing cover Seal?
TC Gasket ?
Oil Pan Gasket?

Have You considered Replacing Oil Pan Gasket with a One-Piece Gasket ??

YOU Measure YOUR Balancer Outside Diameter. Is it ABOUT 8" OD ??
OR, it is ABOUT 6.75" OD ??

That Balancer TOOL seems to be a good choice.

Unlikely you need a New Balancer BOLT Or New Timing Cover BOLTS.


S

 

I’m not a small block guy, but I believe there is a sequence involved when you are replacing the oil pan gasket and the timing cover gasket.
I’m not talking only bolt torque sequence but doesn’t the pan or the timing cover need to be installed first?
Also, isn’t there something about getting the correct thickness of the front seal important?
Like I said I’m no sbc guy so I could be incorrect.

I for one would replace the harmonic balancer.
It is over 50 years old and they are a general replacement item.

 

 

1. Amazon and Ebay are the only international websites I use. For most of the parts.

2. My engine is an L48.

3. I have all the seals in a box in my garage:
oil pan gasket (one-piece thick blue Fel-pro), waterpump gaskets, timing cover seal (for hole in the middle of the cover) and timing cover gasket. I also have the rear main seal (If there is a surprise when removing the oil pan).

4. Yes. I will use a one piece oil pan gasket.

5. I just found out that the balancer is not the original one. I removed it using the same type of tool as the one from Proform. See pictures.
It’s 6 3/4”. It’s made in China… It seems there is a small crack in the rubber.

 

Suggest replace damper.
Pioneer P/N D3071 Harmonic Damper (it's actually 6.75" although some ads read 7")

suggest put a light coat of grease on TC seal lips before you install cover And on damper snout before install.

Melling P/N 40500 Timing Set (Large pitch, 0.334" diameter rollers, Heavy-Duty, Single-Row) --- some double-row Require grinding block, single row does not.

 

Do you know if Edelbrock has a good timing set for an L48?

 

I'm interested to know why you don't use Rockauto. Maybe it's different in Belgium, but here in the UK everyone I know uses Rockauto. If they have the item you need (they do mostly maintenance type items), they are usually the cheapest, their shipping is also cheap, includes import VAT and parts normally get here in 3 days. They also have a wide range to choose from, they list over 70 different timing chain and component kits for a 77 Vette!