I’m still in the planning stage, but want to have my proverbial “ducks in a row” before buying parts. On my ‘71 LT1 I want to run an electric water pump. Based on my research, I have a question/concern. On reading past posts, one member mentioned there may be an issue of interference in running the belt to the alternator, since I will be running power steering as well. Any one else in the know on this? (Please don’t turn this into a “why do you want to run an electric pump” thing. BUT, it’s a matter of aesthetics for those that would ask that).
As a side note, I will also be running electric fans and most likely an electric fuel pump, so based on my research, a 140 amp alternator should suffice.
Will I have belt interference issues? Do you guys agree that a 140a alternator will be good to go? BTW, no A/C. Thanks ya’ll

 

You might have to do something like this
​​​​​​https://cvfracing.com/chevy-small-bl...ic-water-pump/

 

Thanks for that @wolfk . Hmmm… I do like the look of that set up, but am thinking of the wiring that would need to be ran to the alternator and am not too sure. You may have me rethinking this if it can’t be done without relocating it to the pass side.
I’m curious if someone has done this without having to do so?

 

Actually wiring the above alternator would be easy, you would eliminate the stock driver side alt wiring. Since that CVF alternator is a one wire, you would run the single charge wire from the alternator to the bat terminal on the starter, and that would be it.
Now wiring electric water pump is a little more involved, it would require wiring in a relay, and possibly a temp sensor.

 

Ah, I see. That would help to simplify and clean things up a bit. Yes, I’ve considered the wiring of the pump, but that would be a necessary evil I guess. After looking at that kit, I looked up additional pics and it appears that this is the only way to do it with power steering. Good food for thought. Thanks for the input!

 

I have a small block (440 SBC) with a Meziere electric water pump in my '69. Yes, it does fit the alternator belt in the stock location, just get the right length to adjust the alternator properly. There is a Meziere model with heater hose valves if you want to retain the hoses (I have that one). I have power steering and no problem with fitment. Also, I have an electric fan and a 140 amp CS130 type alternator works fine. BTW, that's a vacuum pump on the right side, not AC.

Some Pics.....

 

I kicked around installing an electric water pump on mine but I ended up not doing it.
I think they work and look awesome.

 

Oh man @C3 Stroker , you really saved me! That’s great to know!!!
I’ve deleted my heater (Florida), so no worries there. Nice looking set up you have. I bet she screams! I had a 383 in my ‘69 (long gone) and it would lite up 9.5” wide drag radials, so can’t imagine what kind of a wild ride yours must be when you goose it. Thanks again, very much!!!

 

Agree on the looks and based on my research they do indeed work well.

 

litevette I have the 55 gph pump, and generally runs at 180 degrees on 90 degree days, never overheats.

 

So do electric water pumps flow at a constant rate or does the flow vary electrically with rpm?

 

Couple things re the alternator. Based on my research!

Alternators output- sort of think about it as horsepower. You need high output at idle- and not worry so much about the max rating.. Compare those rating when picking an Alternator
Another thing that will help lower RPM output is running a small pulley on the Alternator.

AND I highly recommend staying away from 1 wire ones. Look over problems with alternator on this and other forums- and it's usually the one wire ones...

 

Most elec water pumps like we see or hear about in this thread run constant speed.
Globally, of those relatively few automobiles with OE elec water pumps, most Do control & vary pump speed in concert with temp demands. Some of those engines also have advanced water jacket dynamics which also helps to manage-control & minimize temp deltas from top-to-bottom of cylinders. Smaller temp deltas helps promote better ring seal and permits even tighter piston-wall fitments. Please Note: those OEMs spend a great deal of engineering resources (Time & Money) validating the reliability of those OE elec pumps (as is done with OE mechanical pumps). However, there's no requirement (or budgets) for such vigorous studies, testing & validation in the performance aftermarket. Two different worlds apart.

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Very good info to take into consideration Richard. Thanks!

 

@383 Stroker did you have to give the bracket a shave to mount it on the water pump there?

 

No, that's the same spot it mounts to with the stock pump. No change.

 

Awesome! Thanks a bunch!

 

I'm sticking with my factory clutch fan I like things simple.
I do have an upgraded alternator I added a heavier gauge wire from the starter to the alternator in parallel to the factory one. That is supposed to help .

 

What gauge of wire did you end up using (if you remember)? That makes sense, being more power would be flowing through it.

 

I can't read the printing on the cable. I do know it was marine grade copper with a coating of silver to prevent. I got what I was told to get by a good friend. This marine grade stuff must have different markings. Does 8 or 10 gauge seem right?