Hey guys, I’ve read a lot of forums about heads, intake, and cams but wanted some options for my own situation. I’ve read on here that a lot of people aren’t too stoked on edelbrock top end kits and say you can pick out a much better set up. Wonder what exact cam, heads and intake setup would be best for my car!

I have a 74 that had a new 350 put into it before I bought it. The motor only has around 3-4k miles on it. I’ve rebuilt nearly everything on this car and I think it’s finally time to chase some more power!

I have Global west control arms and swing arms, vansteel swaybar and leaf spring, billstein shocks and struts, a tremec 5-speed TKX with close gears (2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1.00, .68), new driveshaft, u joints on driveshaft and half shafts, new super street mcleod clutch and steel flywheel, whole new power steering components, body mount bushings, Doug’s long tube headers and 4” side pipes, and also most likely a new rear differential this winter (making an awful noise, going to tear it down to see if I should rebuild/replace).

The car is just used on the street. Don’t want to trade reliability for power but it definitely needs a little more umpth. Would like a cam that sounds great while idling. I understand that a choppy cam will essentially kill low end torque. I don’t want that to happen, so is there a good middle ground of a cam that sounds good but still preforms well at the low end? Additionally, I live in Wyoming so the air is pretty thin, while tuning the carb I’ve noticed that I definitely lack air! Wondering which intake you guys would recommend. And then best heads. I am assuming aluminum heads! This will be my first time ever doing work on an engine, so tips and tricks are also appreciated!

 

It would be imperative to know the specs of the new engine that was put in as far as compression, cam, cylinder heads, and pistons, but here’s an excellent thread about getting more power out of an L48 with high quality parts.

 

Which type pistons are in that near-new 350 (dish or flattop or dome) ? That matters a lot ! No one can make credible suggestions on top end upgrades without KNOWING that !
May require You to EITHER get a cheap borescope attachment for your phone & peek into spark plug hole, OR remove a head so you can see (and photograph) tops of pistons.

ALL kits are someone else's idea for a compromise. It's just that, a compromise. Don't compromise; Do learn to select what's best for YOU.

This is a Must to do first thing: Get some DIY engine building books. First choice is How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy by David Vizard.
Every first-timer NEEDS this book. *YouTube ALONE won't Cut It !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17753149236...90.c101224.m-1

 

I've been contemplating changing my engine up as well. I found that AFR is selling kits now and then wondering how their cams and lifters stack up against others.AFR

 

Find out who's cams and lifters they are marking up and reselling and you will know I can tell you the AFR enforcer heads are the same exact Chinese castings I bought on ebay for $350 for the pair... sometimes it pays to do the research. You might miss out on bragging rights though.
It's likely the same cams as comp/ lunati/ edelbrock sells (they are all the same company these days) My guess is Howards is making them for them. I have multiple comp retro roller cams as well as a lunati and comp flat tappet sitting on the shelf in my garage and instead run an ls firing order summit retro roller cam with engine tech retro roller lifters from rock auto.. YMMV. My car is setup for spirited street driving, not the track
I also sold my performer rpm intakes and run a no name (assault) polished air gap clone now because it offered an extra 1.4" clearance and I was going to port it anyways so... this is in a 406 with Aces killshot2 TBI which still installing because life got in the way this year.
As other mentioned there is simple no one size fits all "best" choice... what you doing with the car, compression, rear gear ratio you have are jist some of the key things that decide what will work better for your combo. Personally I'm done with flat tappat cams and lifters. The quality control is no longer there on these novelty parts for antique engines like ours.

 

Regardless of who makes the bits; a kit is someone else's idea of an ideal compromise.

I did spot the following on AFR's cam pages:
their (Very limited choices of) cams are on billet steel 8620 cores AND they're sourced from Andrews.
Harley guys will recognize Andrews; it has long history of manufacturing both cams & trans gears for H-D V-twins; all top quality (but, for H-D cams, I'm a Jim Leineweber fan).
billet steel 8620 alloy is very tough, but seems acceptable distributor gear materials choices for 8620 are on a short list.

 

Sell that low-mile 350 on Facebook Marketplace, and put in a crate LS3, or a junkyard LS swap.

It's the best supported engine platform in the world, with hundreds of cam options, and no more carb tuning!

 

If it's a stock 8.5 compression rebuild
AFR or Brodix 195-200 cc heads with 64cc chambers, roller rockers, hardened push rods.

Retro roller cam upgrade, I wouldn't touch a flat tappet cam anymore with the high failure rate. Something around 220 duration, 110 LSA, as much lift as you can get. With the low compression stay 200 or below.

That's about it.

 

Edelbrock makes some really nice top end kits and if the cam or other component isn’t exactly the one you want or need, their sales representatives are very knowledgeable and will make adjustments to their kits with other components they sell.
So if the intake included in their top end kit shows it will not fit under the hood of your corvette, they can advise you what will fit and can make that adjustment.
They are basic kits made to improve a street cars performance and not made for the race car professional who is racing at the track.

 

whenever selecting heads and/or cam, it's Very important to KNOW which configuration Pistons are inside; VERY.

? Was this motor truly Brand New, OR simply freshly rebuilt aka remanufactured, OR simply newer than the original motor ?
If truly Brand New, perhaps that implies it was acquired as a New GM crate motor or New GM Replacement motor ?
If so, that motor Will have had a GM Part Number.
If you can tell us that GM Part Number, we can usually determine what's inside your motor with some certainty.
Similarly, if it's a Major brand of aftermarket replacement motor (with Part Number), we may also be able to investigate.