Looking for some advice on getting my 75 back on the road. She has been sitting for about 5 years. I currently have the engine and transmission out and will be going the 383 stroker route paired with a th350. The goal is to make this a fun daily driver with some occasional spirited driving. Before I start working on the motor, what are the biggest things that I should address while I have the drivetrain out that would otherwise be a PITA? I recently cleaned up wiring harnesses but have not had a chance to test them. Would it be as simple as hooking up a battery and testing the different functions or is the testing process different without a drivetrain? Is there any way to drain the fuel without dropping the tank? Thank you to everyone in advance.

 

Electric headlight door conversion is much easier when you can sit in the engine compartment to do the work (assuming the radiator is out).

 

BEFORE you select Any engine parts: Do have block's decks measured for level and to determine If block should be decked aka if decks should be milled.
if repeat IF decks are Verified AOK, that permits option to Choose a 3.800" stroke crank (instead of typical 3.750" stroke).
That will put Most common shelf pistons level with deck (aka 'zero deck') and permits use of any common 0.038"-0.041" thick head gasket (cheaper$) to yield an optimal quench.
And, that 0.050" additional stroke may not seem significant, but Will bump displacement another Five inches from 383 to 388. More stroke and displacement means more torque & fun.
Don't buy a stroker KIT; they're all one person's idea of a compromise. Don't compromise; within budget, select the best individual parts for Your motor.
Most 383/388 cranks that're designed for 5.7" rods WILL Require external (less desirable) balancing; most 6" (or longer) rod cranks will readily internal balance (most desirable).
When it comes to a shop balancing a rotating assembly, it cost Much $ Less to drill away mass from crank counterweights that the hi-cost $ of adding tungsten aka mallory metal.
An external balance 383/388 Will require a counterweighted harmonic balancer aka damper; those place an undesirable stress on crankshaft snout.

 

dupe

 

IMO if you’re removing the whole powertrain with the goal of having it being a daily driver I would consider a transmission with overdrive. Not only will you get considerably better fuel economy, your engine will last more miles and be less harsh at higher speeds.

And while the engine is out I would detail and paint the bay. Adding some insulation in the transmission tunnel can make quite a difference too.

 

Obviously you can siphon out the gas. Tie a hose to the end of a thin wooden dowell and drain it into a big gas can.

The wiring harness can be checked for end to end continuity. The wires from the gauges to the senders need to be checked. Senders themselves too.

The front suspension is much easier to get to once the engine is out. Might be a good time to replace those bushings, ball joints and steering parts before dropping the engine back in.

 

Any recommendations on conversion kits for the headlights? I have read a lot of bad reviews on some of these kits and issues with the wiring but remember seeing that someone on the forum sells a quality kit, just don't remember who at the moment. @Rebelyell That will be valuable information whenever I get started on the motor. The current plan is to have a shop do the machine work and assemble the bottom end, then will install and do rest of it while in the car to clear some space in the garage. @Piersonpie The powertrain was already removed as it is not original to the car and something I picked up a while ago but never got around to it. I basically have a 4 bolt bare 350 block and a th350 that came with it, which I plan on using until one gives up. I have already painted the bay, nothing professional as I don't plan on making this a show car and not to worried about the cosmetics at the moment. @stingr69 Yes siphoning the gas is the obvious route, my concern was more so any damage that can be done to the rebuilt powertrain as the fuel is over 5 years old at this point. Most of the front suspension was rebuilt before it was stored, but would have to look over the steering parts.

Do I still need the vacuum canister if I am converting to electric headlights? I pulled all the vacuum hoses but there is one more hose that goes into a thin metal tube that goes to the rear. Anyone know what that one is for? Checked vacuum diagrams but did not see it on there.

 

@Richard454 is the one who sells the kit. The thin metal line goes to your vacuum modulator on the transmission. Here’s a good thread about removing the vacuum reservoir and everything that goes with it.

 

I'm not selling anything on this or on any forum; I offered advice on selecting optimal parts for engine build.
However, forum member Richard454 does market electric headlight motor kits.

 

Maybe while the drivetrain is out, conversion to Tremec 5-speed with hydraulic clutch? Pair that with your 383 and, wow, what a fun smokin ride!!!!

 

Definitely use the foil/fiberglass tunnel insulation and the foam "horse collar"! Replace the positive battery cable while the trans is out. It hugs the top of the trans tunnel and is practically unreachable with the trans and insulation installed.