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I looked in the factory assembly manual and the service manual for what light bulbs go where and found nothing. I compiled a list from Rock Auto
Back Up Light Bulb 1156
Brake Light Bulb 1157
Clock Light Bulb 194
Dome Light Bulb 2142
Engine Compartment Light Bulb 93
Glove Box Light Bulb 1891
Headlamp Bulb High Beam H5001 Low Beam H5006
High Beam Indicator Light Bulb 194
Instrument Panel Light Bulb 194 or 161
License Plate Light Bulb 168
Map / Reading Light Bulb 2142
Parking Brake Warning Light Bulb 194
Parking Light Bulb 1157
Seat Belt Light Bulb 194
Shift Indicator Light Bulb 161
Side Marker Light Bulb 168
Step / Courtesy Light Bulb 906
Tail Light Bulb 1157
Turn Signal Indicator Light Bulb 194
Turn Signal Light Bulb 1157
Unless I can find the issue with the instrument light voltage I'm going to get regular bulbs for them and toss out the LED's.
I looked in the factory assembly manual and the service manual for what light bulbs go where and found nothing. I compiled a list from Rock Auto
Back Up Light Bulb 1156
Brake Light Bulb 1157
Clock Light Bulb 194
Dome Light Bulb 2142
Engine Compartment Light Bulb 93
Glove Box Light Bulb 1891
Headlamp Bulb High Beam H5001 Low Beam H5006
High Beam Indicator Light Bulb 194
Instrument Panel Light Bulb 194 or 161
License Plate Light Bulb 168
Map / Reading Light Bulb 2142
Parking Brake Warning Light Bulb 194
Parking Light Bulb 1157
Seat Belt Light Bulb 194
Shift Indicator Light Bulb 161
Side Marker Light Bulb 168
Step / Courtesy Light Bulb 906
Tail Light Bulb 1157
Turn Signal Indicator Light Bulb 194
Turn Signal Light Bulb 1157
Unless I can find the issue with the instrument light voltage I'm going to get regular bulbs for them and toss out the LED's.
JT
note:
194 lamps are also available as Long Life aka LL (seems a prudent choice) --- I just replaced some in non-vette and chose 194LL
I found those (incandescent Not led) in Sylvania brand and they're Hecho En Mexico
Seems 168 lamps are virtually same as 194, BUT 168 produce a bit more lumens than 194 BUT also have a bit shorter life than 194
What issue do you have with your instrument light voltage?
The headlight switch contains a dimmer for those bulbs (twist the ****). Sometimes it develops corrosion, or a flat spot.
Many LEDs do not dim very well.
And the incandescent bulbs can go in either direction, but most LEDs have a positive and a negative, and it matters how you plug them into the center gauge cluster (77-82) and tach/speedo (78-82).
The voltage is about 10v at the instrument lights so the LED's only work sometimes. The headlight switch is new. I used a bench power supply to make sure I had the polarity correct on the LED's while the center gauge cluster was on my bench. In any case I just got and set of incandescent bulbs for the whole car and I'm taking the LED's out as they were not very bright when they did work. I'm thinking it might be a ground issue but have not confirmed that yet with the meter.
I believe there's also a complete list of bulbs included in the Owner's Manual. At least it was for my '71 I think.
Last time I was in there I replaced pretty much everything w/ new incandescents that I had previously bought years earlier. If I did it again - I might consider at least replacing the non-dimming bulbs with LEDs.
Normally I too would say to look closely at the combo headlight and interior dimmer switch if experiencing issues w/ dash bulbs too - but since it's new...?
I have checked the hot side of one back to the battery negative and it read 10.5v or so... but I've not checked them when the engine is running. When I started it the other day I noticed the volt meter was reading a bit below 12v but when the engine was running it was 13v or so.
Zip used to sell a light bulb kit that had them all for every lamp. I bought one years ago. Don't know if the vendors still make those kits for us. It saves a lot of time and energy.
I believe there's also a complete list of bulbs included in the Owner's Manual. At least it was for my '71 I think.
Owner's manuals always had a bulb listing in the back of them.
Originally Posted by theandies
Zip used to sell a light bulb kit that had them all for every lamp. I bought one years ago. Don't know if the vendors still make those kits for us. It saves a lot of time and energy.
Lectric Limited makes the complete bulb kits for Corvettes that are sold by most of the Corvette vendors. The kits are pretty nice with all the bulbs (except the headlights), and a guide to where each bulb goes. They also make complete fuse kits.
I believe there's also a complete list of bulbs included in the Owner's Manual. At least it was for my '71 I think.
Last time I was in there I replaced pretty much everything w/ new incandescents that I had previously bought years earlier. If I did it again - I might consider at least replacing the non-dimming bulbs with LEDs.
Normally I too would say to look closely at the combo headlight and interior dimmer switch if experiencing issues w/ dash bulbs too - but since it's new...?
Owners manual is the only book I don't have for the 82...
LED bulbs are diodes and will conduct electricity or light up in one direction only. You have to determine "+" and "-" for each bulb since they are normally unmarked. Then determine "+" and "-" on the circuit board at the socket location. Then you can align the bulb and the circuit board so that the bulb will light up. Or, you can put the light switch in Park position at full brightness, then insert the bulb and rotate, if needed, to light up the bulb.
LED bulbs are diodes and will conduct electricity or light up in one direction only. You have to determine "+" and "-" for each bulb since they are normally unmarked. Then determine "+" and "-" on the circuit board at the socket location. Then you can align the bulb and the circuit board so that the bulb will light up. Or, you can put the light switch in Park position at full brightness, then insert the bulb and rotate, if needed, to light up the bulb.
It's impossible to change the bulbs with the center gauge cluster installed, the speedo and tach is possible.
The problem I have with the LED's that I have is I don't have a full 12v on that circuit. On the bench they lit up fine with a12v power supply. Even the standard bulbs are a bit dim IMO on MY car. The center gauge cluster holders and circuit floppy and the headlight switch are all brand new.
After installing the center gauge cluster I lost the clock and radio both need a hot all the time... while trying to change some bulbs in the speedo and tach I lost the courtesy lights and dome light... only to realize that the holders and floppy probably need to be changed on that too.
Check to see if you have 12 volts at the instrument panel light fuse with the headlight switch pulled out.
I checked at the headlight switch the red wire and it has full voltage. After some research I found that the orange wire is fused and it supplies power to the dash lights and parking lights and tail lights so I'll check that one. The old headlight switch I checked it on the bench and I get full voltage out of the dash lights pin so it's going back in as the replacement just doesn't fit right.
What issue do you have with your instrument light voltage?
The headlight switch contains a dimmer for those bulbs (twist the ****). Sometimes it develops corrosion, or a flat spot.
Many LEDs do not dim very well.
And the incandescent bulbs can go in either direction, but most LEDs have a positive and a negative, and it matters how you plug them into the center gauge cluster (77-82) and tach/speedo (78-82).
Many don't. Some do. And if the dimmer is at a dim setting, or stuck on a spot of corrosion, the LEDs won't light at all.
A PWM dimmer would be a better solution, but some LEDs can dim with the stock headlight switch. Mine go from brighter than stock, to about as bright as stock, to suddenly off.
Check to see if you have 12 volts at the instrument panel light fuse with the headlight switch pulled out.
I checked the orange wire at the headlight switch which is the fused power for tail lights, side marker lights and instrument lights and I have full battery voltage at that point.
Yes but that's not where the problem is. Check the insert panel / gauge cluster fuse for a full 12 volts at that point. That fuse gets its power off the parking light circuit.
Yes but that's not where the problem is. Check the insert panel / gauge cluster fuse for a full 12 volts at that point. That fuse gets its power off the parking light circuit.
I see a 7.5 amp fuse marked INST LPS is that the fuse you mean?
JT
Ok I think I managed to trace it out on the wiring diagram. From the headlight switch DK.GRN 44 goes to INST LTS fuse and GRY 8 goes to each of the printed circuit boards on the center console and the DIC. It will be a lot easier to check GRY 8 at the back of the printed circuit board plugs.