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Mike Jones could make a very nice custom cam/lifters for it. Best pieces you can get. I love the way mine came out. I don't trust anybody else anymore. Too many flat cams out there these days. Worth a look.
My budget is $10k to get the 82 in good mechanical shape. My wife asked me once how much I had in the C3 and my answer was I don't want to know.
For a Gen 1 SBC I can't see putting a lot of money into that block when a Vortec with roller cam would be much better but then there's the oil pan...
That cam bearing is shot. The lobes on the camshaft don't look too good either. You can't measure lift with a dial caliber because the lobes are tapered. Jamie mentioned that also in that video. Pull the rod and main caps also and inspect those bearings too. When choosing a keep it conservative. Now comes the sucky part. Are you sure that you have 2.87 gears because the 82 steel wheel cars came standard with 2.72 and the 2.87 optional.
Your old cam and lifters are going in the trash due to wear without question. No need to carefully organize and hang on to them. Flat tappet cams and lifters will work as long as they are quality pieces and broken in right.
Roller cams bring a whole lot of other requirements along with them. There is nothing budget about the swap. Expensive cams, lifters, springs, rockers, pushrods, button spacers, etc. Valve covers might need to be addressed. Maybe the A/C compressor will hit the taller valve covers.....About $1000 extra added to the total bill before you are done. Lots to think about.
That cam bearing is shot. The lobes on the camshaft don't look too good either. You can't measure lift with a dial caliber because the lobes are tapered. Jamie mentioned that also in that video. Pull the rod and main caps also and inspect those bearings too. When choosing a keep it conservative. Now comes the sucky part. Are you sure that you have 2.87 gears because the 82 steel wheel cars came standard with 2.72 and the 2.87 optional.
Oh, I'm not "sure" about anything on this car except what I've worked on. It probably has the 2.72 I was just googling it.
I was just measuring to see if there was some big differences which there is and I tried to measure in the center due to the taper.
looking through the trees, see the forest.
This motor requires a New cam; primarily because lobes are failing.
This motor requires New lifters; primarily because some lobes have already failed (e.g. spalling) and Will have collateral damage on their respective lobe(s) lifters' faces.
Dunno why it/they failed; but they have failed. But, it shore ain't 'cuz of too much spring.
Budget permitting, cannot agree more with a Mike Jones cam + lifters. His recommendations are less speculative; are height of cam professionalism.
NEW billet steel GM overstock and/or obsolete and/or discontinued Roller cams (including Mercruiser/Merc Marine) CAN be had for $100-$150 (google web).
Summit house brand has all USA NEW billet steel roller cams for under $280.
Rock Auto has EngineTech Retrofit Roller Lifters (P/N RFC35016) for under $200 per full set of Eight Linked Pairs
*IIRC, CF member augiedoggy has been running same RFC35016 roller lifters for several years. Seems CF's augiedoggy having satisfactory lifter results.
So, a new roller cam w/ new roller lifters can be had for under-about $500; Or Even Less. Seems Both RA & Summit are credible suppliers, as well.
* cam bearing insert # 1 has failed; garbage. The oil gallery plugs have hex heads; they're good but not OE. GM's final iteration of Gen 1 roller motor (L31 vortec) has a small (about 0.025") hole drilled thru center of both R&L plugs (not middle plug) to aide air purging to help quiet motor upon startup.
** FWIW seems that block is C/N 14010207. If so, is later '80-'85 and therefore thinner and lighter casting.
*** bet dollars to donuts: a spectroscopic oil analysis would reflect Very high aluminum / babbitt; from bearing inserts' wear.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Feb 19, 2026 at 01:20 PM.
Your old cam and lifters are going in the trash due to wear without question. No need to carefully organize and hang on to them. Flat tappet cams and lifters will work as long as they are quality pieces and broken in right.
Roller cams bring a whole lot of other requirements along with them. There is nothing budget about the swap. Expensive cams, lifters, springs, rockers, pushrods, button spacers, etc. Valve covers might need to be addressed. Maybe the A/C compressor will hit the taller valve covers.....About $1000 extra added to the total bill before you are done. Lots to think about.
This is a great hobby.
I tend to organize parts like this during disassembly just in case.
JT, I know you have a lot on your plate with this car and I also know you just want a good cruiser and not really looking for a boost in performance. So IMO before headers, heads, camshaft,etc. a set of gears will do more for a performance boost than anything you can do underneath the hood (ok a 454 would). With your present gearing your kind of limited on your engine build. Yes the 700r4 has a 3.06 first and gets you going but the 1.62 second makes the car fall flat down on it's face.
For those following along the lifters on those lobes that were bad are all dished out.
Edit: I just looked at the rest of the cam bearings and they are shot, one even has a chip out of it!
JT
FWIW: L31 Vortec 350ci, (when retrofitted w/ carb, electric fuel pump, HEI ign) And True Duals & No cats, Produces ABOUT 315 SAE Gross HP
Existing intake manifold and flexplate/flywheel cannot fit.
The heavy-duty version has more-robust heads (not bigger, but sturdier). L31 cam has No fuel pump eccentric. Best dang warranty in the biz !
New L31 currently ABOUT $5300 USD delivered.
JT,
Did you happen to run a magnet through the stuff in the bottom of the pan? Cam/lifter wear forms an iron paste or blackish metal sludge that not only can run through the engine some but collects in the bottom of the pan. I would certainly pop some main caps off and look for any signs of wear, oil pump too... I run magnetic drain plugs to check for signs of it.
Where there is smoke there is usually fire... I've followed these threads of yours and is seems the track record for that car is one where the PO did some questionable things. I see no reason to think what ever was done to that motor was probably done is a similar way. You have it torn down to only the rotating assembly and the only really good news I've seen is the compression... I have old cars because I like working on them and fixing things but I also know when to say when...I'd be real close to saying when on that motor...all things considered
Here would be my thoughts...
1) Rebuild/repair the motor, take the money saved in not replacing it and buy a new rear, 3.35, 3.55, and have a little more fun.
2) Get the Blue print, 300HP+, keep the rear and have a fine cruiser that still has a little zip.
3) Fix up the spare bedroom where you will be living after the wife finds out you exceeded your 10K with a new motor, rear, wheels tires........etc etc.
JT,
Did you happen to run a magnet through the stuff in the bottom of the pan? Cam/lifter wear forms an iron paste or blackish metal sludge that not only can run through the engine some but collects in the bottom of the pan. I would certainly pop some main caps off and look for any signs of wear, oil pump too... I run magnetic drain plugs to check for signs of it.
Where there is smoke there is usually fire... I've followed these threads of yours and is seems the track record for that car is one where the PO did some questionable things. I see no reason to think what ever was done to that motor was probably done is a similar way. You have it torn down to only the rotating assembly and the only really good news I've seen is the compression... I have old cars because I like working on them and fixing things but I also know when to say when...I'd be real close to saying when on that motor...all things considered
Here would be my thoughts...
1) Rebuild/repair the motor, take the money saved in not replacing it and buy a new rear, 3.35, 3.55, and have a little more fun.
2) Get the Blue print, 300HP+, keep the rear and have a fine cruiser that still has a little zip.
3) Fix up the spare bedroom where you will be living after the wife finds out you exceeded your 10K with a new motor, rear, wheels tires........etc etc.
JT,
Here would be my thoughts...
1) Rebuild/repair the motor, take the money saved in not replacing it and buy a new rear, 3.35, 3.55, and have a little more fun.
2) Get the Blue print, 300HP+, keep the rear and have a fine cruiser that still has a little zip.
3) Fix up the spare bedroom where you will be living after the wife finds out you exceeded your 10K with a new motor, rear, wheels tires........etc etc.
Good Luck
60
Speaking of wheels @1860army thanks for the heads up on the wheels they came in the other day.
The only thing wrong is the center caps are not clocked to the valve stem LOL.
YMMV but ive been running these for years with 0 issues. I do have a set of comp retro roller lifters too and even though those have less miles on them I chose to use the enginetech version in my 406 that I pulled from my 355 because they felt better in the bores.
im using a summit LS1 firing order retro roller cam and have about $500 in the conversion. I also have 2 spare comp retro roller cams one is new in the box but a both are the same grind and too aggressive for your goals. the rest of the things you need you will be buying with the new heads anyway.
Speaking of wheels @1860army thanks for the heads up on the wheels they came in the other day.
My pleasure JT, it's always a pleasure helping someone else spend their money...LOL... The wheels look in great shape, someday when I find some money I don't like I might get a set of those rallys, paint the wheels black, mount some blackwall tires and kind of murder out my car-when I get to it... And congrats on the new motor.. Now that you have doubled your HP there are a few other things to con$ider... Higher stall TC and how to lock it, plus proper TV cable geometry for your carb. You can wait on the trans but GM beefed it up a few years after your build and you might consider it with your stronger motor- I did it because I wanted a different TC and my pump had a leak, got to watch the guy do it, fascinating how these things work...
My pleasure JT, it's always a pleasure helping someone else spend their money...LOL... The wheels look in great shape, someday when I find some money I don't like I might get a set of those rallys, paint the wheels black, mount some blackwall tires and kind of murder out my car-when I get to it... And congrats on the new motor.. Now that you have doubled your HP there are a few other things to con$ider... Higher stall TC and how to lock it, plus proper TV cable geometry for your carb. You can wait on the trans but GM beefed it up a few years after your build and you might consider it with your stronger motor- I did it because I wanted a different TC and my pump had a leak, got to watch the guy do it, fascinating how these things work...
60
Yeah the TV cable was an interesting thing to find the correct bracket for my carburetor when I replaced the junk one.
Next to go with the performance motor you will be talked into replacing the weak rear gears along with the advice to strengthen or replace your trans with something more race oriented because folks reflect thier own goals and motivations and not the ones you have mentioned.... Just a public service reminder this is supposed to be a cruiser for driving to the malt shop. Its so easy to get carried away when you got this crew cheering you on with advice and how to spend your money. Ask me how I know lol I started down a VERY similar path and 14 years later I have a car with 2 different replacement engines (just because biggeris better right?) , EFI,fuel system, trans, rear end, suspension, steering, interior, paint, wheels, and some of the wiring.... The upgrade become addictive and can be fun. Just dont fall into the trap some do here and become so obsessed and overwhelmed with them that the car ends up torn apart in your garage for years taking up space instead of being driven. we all see the abandoned project cars for sale. Oh and dont think you'll ever get this investment back!
I shook this out of the oil pump pickup screen housing then tossed in the towel on this engine.
JT
This is rtv silicone right? if so kinda normal. The spark plug thread protector is a weird find. I agree with the others that some of your cam lob wear looked pretty sketchy.
