I don't usually post many pictures here anymore and I pulled all the how to threads I had up for years because of wanna-be's, but I did finish this one today.

Since there was a "discussion" yesterday on Diff's, I figured some may want to see one dialed- in.

This is not for sale, it is not solicitation for sales, I won't be PMing anyone to sell them my services. IMO, this is how they should be built- built to application. Much of the work is not found in any manual, it was developed over years of building these diff's and from knowing the old school rebuilders, like Tom and Kenny. No corners were cut, I wasn't looking online to copy someone else's work. This is how they are done at my shop. Cheap parts and services are not used. Parts are used mostly from my stock.

So, take a look. This is not a 10-hour build, it took a lot more than common builds. All l I have to do tomorrow is fit the cover. The cover is a USA made Muskegon HD, not a Chinese knock-off. I personally dislike knockoffs- parts, people, doesn't matter.

For those interested

The housing is a 1973, blasted, etched, POR15, and painted. It is then final prepped inside to be cleaner than new.
The gears are new Motive 370, cryo treated and REM polished. Motive was made in Italy; I can't say that is still true.
The posi is an Eaton, USA made, checked by me- I check several dimensions, along with crack inspection. The posi was blended, radiused, milled, and tuned. Tuned on a machine I built many years ago. Solid steels were used and correctly stacked on GM cut 10/17s which are Cryo and REM polished. Cross shaft is one of my new Oversize 10 bolt shafts, hardened, finish ground and polished. Made with the permission of Tom's Differentials to his spec only to my OD spec. Is this copying Tom's? no, I asked and was granted permission. These are the best vette 10 bolt cross shaft sold today and the only reason I went thru the time and cost to get them made was I have the last of Tom's stock and these were low. I tested other new shafts, they failed inspection, so I made my own.
Axles are GM. Not cored or tipped. Not Chinese. The were ground to size to match the tuned posi. The axles were induction hardened and tempered, then cryo treated, and final polished. Endplay is a solid 005" on both. The posi is balanced and does not use a spring pack. There is no endplay, lash, binding in a correctly tuned posi.Only instant action as Tom and Kenny built for close to 45 years. Do it right it works great. Do it wrong you break spiders or have an open posi. Future clutch play, no. That nonsense comes from people who don't know how to do this and there's fewer and fewer of us left.
As noted,all the internal parts were Cryo treated, the spiders and gears REM polished.
ARP ring gear bolts fit to the RG holes, case holes countersunk. Correct Loctite and torque applied.
Steel cap fit to the new TImken race and housing, only required on the left side. Right side steel caps do nothing more than the stock caps.
Solid sleeve, machine fit, ground and polished. Preload locked in. A solid sleeve is not stronger than a crush sleeve in respect to loading. It is stronger being a thicker steel, the main advantage is future seal installation. The seal is a USA made CR/ SKF.
1330 Pinion yoke was polished and cryo treated. Dimension between the yoke and housing was checked and confirmed.
Drain plug tapped.

The posi was run-in 800 rev's. No need to do parking lot figure 8's.

Is this Bulletproof?? NO. Anyone who tells you something can't broke is an idiot or a liar. You can break anything, 10 bolt, 12 bolt, 9", Dana. Is it strong. Oh yeah, I will put it up against anyone else's 10 bolt any day of the week as long as it is used for the application it was built for. This one, street and some track time.

Now this may sound like a sales pitch but it needs to be said. I build them at 6 different levels, not one and done, or from what see from some, one and dumb.
'nuff said.

Remembering Tom Watt and Tom's Diff's

 

Yet more proof why Gary should be inducted into the National Corvette Museum. Gentlemen like him and Lars and Jim Shea have been ambassadors of this community for decades and have contributed more to the hobby than we will ever know.

 

Gary you are the perfect "caretaker" of Tom's knowledge and his products!

That diff gleams like jewelry.

 

Steve -
Thanks for the kind mention. The funny thing is that me, Jim, and Gary have all been good friends for a long time, and have always shared tech info and stayed in touch with each other. Here is me (left) next to Jim Shea (in the Michigan t-shirt) drinking beer with other Vette enthusiasts in my workshop in 2013:

Gary is a total pro and a great guy. The work he does is world-class - he may be the best builder in the world.

Lars

 

Thank you Steve,
Lars and Jim are great guys I have known for many years. I wish them well.

 

Thank you Lars. Although I better get you a new Ramadei T-shirt so you can model it for me!!!!
The years flew by for sure. We can keep the cars like new, too bad we can't stop aging and stay 40!
Stay safe and say hi to Jim for me.

 

Respect Gary!
You can tell from how your work looks and how you post that a lot of love, attention, and detail goes into everything you do.

I just rebuilt my steering box and thank goodness someone quoted your post outlining how you do it before it was deleted.
Even though I had the service and overhaul manual, It was your post that I kept referencing.
I bought a nice dial torque wrench and a vintage Proto leaf gauge to use for the rebuild.
You even included the volume of grease to put in.
Thank you sir!

 

Glad it worked out for you.

Your lash screw is deep, but as long as you got within range it will be ok. Many worms are damaged by acidic grease over time and the preload on new bearings is choppy. I don't use them like that. I want a dead smooth preload. I can see what appears to be etching on the ball screw. You can see it on the sector. When I build them I don't use vendor kits. They don't come with cover bushings anymore, did yours? So, I guess those are no longer replaced. I have my own bushings made to my spec now and I size them to the sector being used.

Good luck with it. They can be built much better than new if you have the parts, machines, and experience.

In respect to the old "how-to" thread. I requested that to be removed since I have pulled down all of my "how to" threads the past year. Why, because of copycat, wanna-be's like a guy in FL among others. Sorry, my intention posting them was to give car owners, like yourself an option and opportunity to do their own work at a better level. However, when I see someone copying my work and not even having the respect to mention it, just to profit off it, that is not what I like. I don't know who would? When I asked that very question the other day, he had the thread pulled, just as he did yesterday on FB once confronted again with questionable statements made to promote his non- business. Very much like the kid in school who didn't do his homework and tried cheating on the test the next day. No integrity. So, no more "how-to's" from me after 26 years being a member here.

 

Thank you Gary.
Completely understand about removing your how to threads.

I’m thinking I may have to revisit this steering box. After I posted last night, I’m not sure I did things correct. The screw IS set deep.
I was able to get 12 in/lbs turning one way and 13 going the other way and it does feel smooth with no choppiness and no end play.
It did take me a long time doing small adjustments to get that 12 in/lbs though.
With the screw set deep, is the issue a lack of adjustability down the road?

 

I do some mods inside that I never posted about and certainly won’t be doing it now.
you probably won’t get perfect drag in both directions. All depends on how the gears are set and the condition.
Not that this helps you but I wouldn’t use the gears in that condition without doing some of the checks I do but I doubt that anyone does them as I do.

 

Gary, no one does things like you.
Thats why you have the reputation you do.