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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 12:07 PM
  #21  
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Some of the steering arms have only one hole, some have two, and some have one plugged. online.
Both holes are tapered, You can buy the 7* taper reamer online. About .640" at one end, and .540" at the other, .750" away.
The two main holes are almost exactly 1" apart.
I am sure you could just drill it out on a drill press or lathe. And then taper the hole.
I can go measure my originals if you need exact measurements.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Crimson Thunder
My car was a factory non PS car and I installed the tie rods back in to the fast holes when I re did the front suspension. It didn't make it that much harder to drive at slow speeds but it was more fun to drive at regular speeds. Now that I have done the Borgeson conversion it turns right NOW.
I'm truly curious about this…

Can you enlighten me on the Borgeson conversion?

Specs / parts research both show Borgeson and Saginaw at 16:1 (stock ratio for non-P/S).



I’ve got a Saginaw box and was considering a rebuild. But if there’s a clear advantage to the Borgeson, I’d put that on the “considerations list”.

Thanks for the input on tie rod location - I had a feeling it wasn’t as extreme as I suspected. You make a strong case for 2-hole, and I can experiment with the feel.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by leigh1322
Some of the steering arms have only one hole, some have two, and some have one plugged. online.
Both holes are tapered, You can buy the 7* taper reamer online. About .640" at one end, and .540" at the other, .750" away.
The two main holes are almost exactly 1" apart.
I am sure you could just drill it out on a drill press or lathe. And then taper the hole.
I can go measure my originals if you need exact measurements.
leigh1322, thank you again!

I'm looking at 3948877-8 knuckles, and can’t find part numbers for “1969 2-hole”, but if they’re close enough, why not…?

[A.I.M. has the spindle-knuckle combo listed; J174, 3953407-8, but no break-down of spindle# and/or knuckle# … and I’ll get to #’s on my Kentucky Fried front end once it’s out.]

Any rec on a good brand of 7° taper?

[BTW, for those of us on iPhone, long-hold the ‘0’ (Zero) on the number pad -> gives you the degree ‘°’ sign, same with capital ‘A’ if you ever need to use ‘Æ’ …among others]
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by The_JC_L46
I'm truly curious about this…

Can you enlighten me on the Borgeson conversion?

Specs / parts research both show Borgeson and Saginaw at 16:1 (stock ratio for non-P/S).



I’ve got a Saginaw box and was considering a rebuild. But if there’s a clear advantage to the Borgeson, I’d put that on the “considerations list”.

Thanks for the input on tie rod location - I had a feeling it wasn’t as extreme as I suspected. You make a strong case for 2-hole, and I can experiment with the feel.
Borgeson set up is a direct power steering versus the power assisted steering as when compared to a C3 and a lot Ford cars of 60's vintage. IMO, a less complicated set up as the power steering is the gear box itself rather than a ram assisted set up.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by sunflower 1972
Borgeson set up is a direct power steering versus the power assisted steering as when compared to a C3 and a lot Ford cars of 60's vintage. IMO, a less complicated set up as the power steering is the gear box itself rather than a ram assisted set up.
Aha! Now I can see what the conversion means from digging into my searches.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I'd still need:
  • P/S brackets
  • Reservoir / Pump & Pulley
  • Add’l 3rd track pulley for the Crank (?)
  • Belt
  • and some of the kits come with hoses, pump, brackets (?), etc… for install

And then there’s the rag-joint / coupler + ‘collapsing the column’ portion of the install [if I read that correctly, here on the forum - sorry, no link at the moment].

So it’s a bit more than I initially thought …or is it?

I'm not opposed to keeping the manual-steer for now, so the Borgeson sounds like a nice upgrade plan in the future.

If (IF) I did decide to go that route…

Has anyone done that upgrade WITH a hydroboost system, too?

We're getting into strange (but curious) territory here…

And I’m only asking about the hydroboost* bc I’ve seen the vacuum booster conversions and “cut n drill the firewall” is not in my plans.

*Hydratech makes kits for non-power/brakes that install in the stock location; I’ve already talked to them, and am considering that …in the future.
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