When to replace points
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,356
Likes: 6,328
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The points should be replaced when you observe significant "pitting" on the contact surfaces, and/or when the rubbing block starts wearing down. Wear of the rubbing block will result in the timing retarding from it's initial setting. A good set of points will easily run 20,000 miles with no issue. A crappy set of "UniPoints" will last you out the driveway and to the end of the street, so get a good quality set of points, such as the NAPA/Echlin CS786 with the RR175 condenser.
Lars
Lars
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 1,661
From: Summerville SC
Agree that the points should be changed out when you do the cap and the rotor, since you are already in there. And not only was the book of match book cover perfect to set the gap, but the striker part was also good for filing down the pitting on the contacts. Now for the younger people, if you don't know what a book of matches was, Google it.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 556
Agree that the points should be changed out when you do the cap and the rotor, since you are already in there. And not only was the book of match book cover perfect to set the gap, but the striker part was also good for filing down the pitting on the contacts. Now for the younger people, if you don't know what a book of matches was, Google it.
thanks be to God, I've long since thrown the cigs and matches away !
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,068
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Setting timing never used the plastic wrap from the cigarette pack. Always used a cigarette paper. And it still works.
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Joined: Mar 2016
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From: Napa Valley California
If I remember correctly, back when mostly all new cars came equipped from the factory with points ignition, the service manuals stated to tune up the engine at least every 10,000 to 12,000 miles.
Oil change was every 3,000 miles.
I always kept a set of feeler gauges in my tool kit in the trunk, which always had a fresh set of points, condenser, cap, rotor plus a dry rag just in case any moisture built up under the cap.
Oil change was every 3,000 miles.
I always kept a set of feeler gauges in my tool kit in the trunk, which always had a fresh set of points, condenser, cap, rotor plus a dry rag just in case any moisture built up under the cap.