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I could really use some help figuring out how to connect the wiring harness to the door ajar switch in the rear pillar. I understand the principal of how this connection is made but in practice I'm finding it impossible and keep breaking switches and destroying pins.
Picture 1 below is a copy of the instructions provided by the switch maker. Picture 2 is a closeup of the pins I am using and pic 3 is a closeup of the switch end where the pin is inserted. My problem is the tang at the end of the pin (pic 2) alone does not create enough pressure inside the plastic housing (pic 3) to stop the pin pulling back out and there is no sort of ledge inside the plastic housing that the tang catches on once inserted, its smooth inside. I suspect that the two "wings" on the pin (pic 2) are supposed to lock the pin into the opening of the plastic (pic 3) but in practice this seems impossible. The amount of force necessary either breaks the housing or deforms the pin long before it passes through the opening in the housing.
Is there a tip or a trick to getting this done? What am I missing?
from what I see the insulation of the wire ENDS first set tangs, then where you have the arrow you fold those over the bare wire.. I guess they do this instead of soldering the wire on?? someone else surely will chime in also to assist you but that's what I'd do... (right or wrong I guess)
EDIT, ahh now i see what you mean... the top tang in theory should stop the wire from coming back out... not sure why it's not doing that ... sorry..
from what I see the insulation of the wire ENDS first set tangs, then where you have the arrow you fold those over the bare wire.. I guess they do this instead of soldering the wire on?? someone else surely will chime in also to assist you but that's what I'd do... (right or wrong I guess)
EDIT, ahh now i see what you mean... the top tang in theory should stop the wire from coming back out... not sure why it's not doing that ... sorry..
/joe
Thanks Joe. If you look at the pin (which is designed to be crimped on) there are three sets of "wings" on it. The wings at the rear are designed to crimp over the wire insulation and hold it solid, the second set of wings crimps the bare wire to make a connection. That is very standard for almost every crimp style pin. What is not standard is the third set of wings which is why I think they are part of this set up. They either serve as stops to prevent the pin going right through the housing (most likely) or they are designed to cut into the housing and hold the pin firm in the slot. I thought this might be the case given that the folded back tang does not serve to trap the pin in the housing. I'm starting to think that they are just incompatible parts which is annoying given they are both made by Lectric Limited.
Thanks Joe. If you look at the pin (which is designed to be crimped on) there are three sets of "wings" on it. The wings at the rear are designed to crimp over the wire insulation and hold it solid, the second set of wings crimps the bare wire to make a connection. That is very standard for almost every crimp style pin. What is not standard is the third set of wings which is why I think they are part of this set up. They either serve as stops to prevent the pin going right through the housing (most likely) or they are designed to cut into the housing and hold the pin firm in the slot. I thought this might be the case given that the folded back tang does not serve to trap the pin in the housing. I'm starting to think that they are just incompatible parts which is annoying given they are both made by Lectric Limited.
I understand what you are saying but from the 1st pic above it looks like all of the "wings" are folded over... So my thought is that the top tang once inserted stops it from coming back out?? guess I'd give them a call at this point..
I understand what you are saying but from the 1st pic above it looks like all of the "wings" are folded over... So my thought is that the top tang once inserted stops it from coming back out?? guess I'd give them a call at this point..
/joe
Ended up calling Lectric Limited who were very helpful. Turned out to be a bad batch of switches. The inside of the housing is supposed to have a ridge that the tang catches on to stop it pulling out. Mine are completely smooth on the inside which is why they don't work. The lower wings just act as stops. I should be clear that these faulty switches are NOT made by Lectric Limited but LE was aware that the other manufacturer had tooling problems. LESSON: Make sure you switches are made by Lectric Limited! LE switches have "XS" stamped on the head. The faulty switches have a rounded head with no markings.
Door ajar switch connections
