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82 Engine Won't Shut Off

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Old May 12, 2026 | 07:51 AM
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Default 82 Engine Won't Shut Off

So I drove over to the shop to get an alignment yesterday and when I turned the key off the engine didn't stop running. I tried a few times then just pulled the batt/tach plug off the distributor to shut it down. It does start so that kinda points to the switch maybe.

So I assume it might be the ignition switch on top of the steering column is broken or loose or the rack and pinion for the key cylinder.

I'm digging through Jim Shea's papers to find the steering column papers. I've managed to get all three papers using the way back machine.

Edit: I'm not finding anything in Jim Shea's papers about the ignition switch...

JT

Last edited by jthornton; May 12, 2026 at 08:05 AM.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 08:31 AM
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Digging through my collection of C3 information I found this pdf that shows the ignition switch.


JT
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Old May 12, 2026 | 09:31 AM
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I have a 69, but the ignition switch is located in the same place. I think they even used the same switches for many years. If you lower the steering column, you should be able to get to the switch. It is a PITA because there might be several other things that have to be removed also, i.e. AC tubes. The switch comes with an alignment pin installed and you connect the rod from the mechanical switch and mount the new switch and fasten it in place. Once it fits in place then you remove the pin and pit it in a safe place in case you ever need it again. The Tilt column uses a different switch than the fixed column. Surprisingly, the switches are still fairly cheap. Test it before reinstalling everything to make sure all the alignment functions work correctly. You don't want to pull it apart again if you don't have to.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 09:56 AM
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I cannot give you any guidance but Id throughly investigate why your having this problem before Id tear the column apart.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 11:28 AM
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@robertea Thanks I did find a link in the wayback machine that had a link to Jim Shea's papers that he archived.

JT

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Old May 12, 2026 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
I cannot give you any guidance but I'd thoroughly investigate why your having this problem before I'd tear the column apart.
What would you investigate?

No need to tear the column apart the switch is on top, you do need to drop it to get to the switch.

JT
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Old May 12, 2026 | 03:51 PM
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Well I can verify that the rack and pinion is working, now to get the steering column out of the car. I do see some Bubba wiring that I need to look at when I get it out.

JT
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Old May 12, 2026 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jthornton
Well I can verify that the rack and pinion is working
now to get the steering column out of the car. I do see some Bubba wiring that I need to look at when I get it out.

JT
Does your '82 have rack & pinion steering ?
IIRC, those came with recirculating ball (Saginaw steering box) like all previous C3 ?
Did this car's PO retrofit it with rack & pinion steering ?
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Old May 12, 2026 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
Does your '82 have rack & pinion steering ?
IIRC, those came with recirculating ball (Saginaw steering box) like all previous C3 ?
Did this car's PO retrofit it with rack & pinion steering ?
The rack & pinion I was referring to is the key rack & pinion the moves the rod that slides the ignition switch from position to position. On the drawing above it's called the ignition switch actuator assembly.

JT
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Old May 12, 2026 | 05:30 PM
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I am going off something I remembered from from 20 yrs ago and that you need to install a diode in the alternator wire (very easy fix) so the current from the alternator flows only one way (out) and dose not feed back into the alternator from ignition components keeping the engine from turning off.
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Old May 12, 2026 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
I am going off something I remembered from from 20 yrs ago and that you need to install a diode in the alternator wire (very easy fix) so the current from the alternator flows only one way (out) and dose not feed back into the alternator from ignition components keeping the engine from turning off.
It's been working fine for the last year and a half and just quit yesterday. I put a meter on the switch and B3 and G2 has continuity to B1 (battery) all the time no matter what position the switch is in so I suspect the switch is bad after 44 years.

JT
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Old May 12, 2026 | 06:30 PM
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Hmm, it's out. I put a jack stand under the steering column to support it while unplugging the plugs. I had to rotate it 90° CW to clear the brake pedal.



It was actually not that hard to get the steering column out of the car. I did have to rotate and twist a bit to get the lower flange past the brake pedal.



Might as well clean it up and paint it while it's out. I see Bubba has been hard at work on the turn signals so I'll replace that and the dimmer switch while it's out and easy to work on. I also think I'll change the lower bearing as it has some play. The rest feels good.

So much for going for a ride this weekend in the C3.

JT
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Old May 18, 2026 | 01:24 PM
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If your steering column wasn't recently rebuilt, you'll also want to get another GM steering column Horn Contact Retainer since you're taking it apart. If its 44 years old, the Horn Contact Retainer is a plastic part that crumbles to pieces when you touch it. I'm pointing to the yellowed Horn Contact Retainer before it crumbled in the picture. I just rebuilt my 82 steering column a few months ago and the two parts it needed was the lower bearing and the Horn Contact Retainer. It's needed or from what I understand, the horn will be on all the time. Since most Saginaw Steering Columns had this part for many years, they're easy to find on Amazon and other locations. The replacements are usually black colored.

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Old May 18, 2026 | 05:29 PM
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Thanks, I replaced every thing related to the horn when I fixed Bubba's horn modifications when I first got the car.

JT
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Old May 18, 2026 | 10:39 PM
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That's good. One thing less to worry about.

It looks like the lower bearing is so close to the exhaust manifold that the grease melts away and leaves the bearing dry to fail. I packed the bearing with ceramic brake grease. Will see how the grease and bearing lasts.
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Old May 28, 2026 | 06:07 PM
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Well I got the steering column back in with new ignition switch, dimmer switch and turn signal switch. Checked the operation of all the switches and they are all fine.

Engine still would not shut off so I unplugged the two wire plug on the brand new alternator and now the engine shuts off with the key. Not very good quality if the diode only lasts a couple of hours.

JT
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Old May 28, 2026 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jthornton
Well I got the steering column back in with new ignition switch, dimmer switch and turn signal switch. Checked the operation of all the switches and they are all fine.

Engine still would not shut off so I unplugged the two wire plug on the brand new alternator and now the engine shuts off with the key. Not very good quality if the diode only lasts a couple of hours.

JT
So, whose alternator ? brand ? part number ?
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Old May 28, 2026 | 06:42 PM
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Old May 28, 2026 | 06:43 PM
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I'm taking the old alternator to the electric shop tomorrow and have them rebuild it... it stopped charging a year ago when I went for the first alignment.

JT
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Old May 29, 2026 | 05:06 AM
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One wire alternators converted to 3 wire operation require a external diode. The aftermarket has a fix. A simple plug and play diode. I personally just installed a diode inline and hid it inside the harness. But, you can just get a plug and play diode off ebay. This is extremely common and you really don't need to rebuild your alternator.
Just the first one I found when I opened up ebay. Top picture. Problem solved.
Just the first one I found when I opened up ebay. Top picture. Problem solved.

Last edited by 4-vettes; May 29, 2026 at 05:11 AM.
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