1971 LS5 Valve cover gaskets
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 4,186
Likes: 68
From: Iron Range MN
1971 LS5 Valve cover gaskets
Having some oil leak out the valve covers so assuming the gaskets need to be replaced? Are the synthetic gaskets a better choice?
Probably a stupid question but when putting the valve covers back on do you tighten until snug or do they need to be torqued?
TIA
Probably a stupid question but when putting the valve covers back on do you tighten until snug or do they need to be torqued?
TIA
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,267
Likes: 4,362
From: Westminster Maryland
Hello,
The 454 valve cover bolts require very little torque.
8-10 INCH lb.
Be sure the triangular retainers are in place to help keep the bolt from deforming the valve cover.
It's easy to break or strip the bolt. Be careful.
Regards.....
The 454 valve cover bolts require very little torque.
8-10 INCH lb.
Be sure the triangular retainers are in place to help keep the bolt from deforming the valve cover.
It's easy to break or strip the bolt. Be careful.
Regards.....
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,130
Likes: 4,243
From: US-PNW
I use the cork/rubber style gaskets and glue the gaskets to the standard valve covers with Indian Head Cement. It's a shellac based brush-on adhesive available from auto parts stores. Clean up drips and runs with denatured alcohol. The head rims don't get any cement or other sealant.
My torque process is to start all the bolts in the threads but only focus on the bottom row. Snug the 1st up, then the 3rd, then the 2nd, then the 4th. Go back to the 1st and do the sequence again. Repeat once more. I use a small 1/4" drive socket & extension and am just using wrist rotation, not full arm strength to tighten them down. After all of the bottom row are snug such that they don't easily turn any more, I tighten the top row. A sequential pattern isn't as important here, but I do middle, front, rear with one repeat. I also check them whenever I'm doing any work on the engine, just to snug up if needed. I've used this method over many years on both of my BB engines and don't have any leaks from the covers.
My torque process is to start all the bolts in the threads but only focus on the bottom row. Snug the 1st up, then the 3rd, then the 2nd, then the 4th. Go back to the 1st and do the sequence again. Repeat once more. I use a small 1/4" drive socket & extension and am just using wrist rotation, not full arm strength to tighten them down. After all of the bottom row are snug such that they don't easily turn any more, I tighten the top row. A sequential pattern isn't as important here, but I do middle, front, rear with one repeat. I also check them whenever I'm doing any work on the engine, just to snug up if needed. I've used this method over many years on both of my BB engines and don't have any leaks from the covers.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,187
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From: Chapel Hill NC
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In addition make sure the sealing surfaces of the valve covers are not warped or bent which can occur from over tightening. I like Fel Pro gaskets.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
The only valve cover gaskets worth buying are the Cometic C5975-2:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CGT-C5975-2
They have a steel core with rubber on both sides but more importantly they have steel sleeves in all the bolt holes so you can tighten the bolts without crushing the gasket. For the first time since I got the car 30 years ago I have no leaks.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CGT-C5975-2
They have a steel core with rubber on both sides but more importantly they have steel sleeves in all the bolt holes so you can tighten the bolts without crushing the gasket. For the first time since I got the car 30 years ago I have no leaks.
