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hi guys, I have a new question from over the water in the UK (thanks to all for your help on the radio etc, so far, by the way). I'm in the market for a new rear leaf spring for my 78, as it looks about shot (the rear wheels are tilting inwards at the top of the wheel arches) and I'm a little confused as to the best to go for. I don't intend to race it (on or off a track !!) and I only tend to drive her around 4k miles a year, so its a question of value for money, rather than outright performance. Also, what other bits am I likely to need ? - I don't think the spring's ever been off.....
Over here, I'm told a new carbon fibre (?) spring will set me back about £400/$600 which seems fairly pricey ??
pretty much, I think - I haven't had her up on a ramp yet at my trusty mechanics yet - I'm having a bit of difficulty getting her into a forward gear (3 sp auto), although reverse works, but there's a bit of a clunking sound when she's on the move..... - I've put some new oil in the gearbox, but a AAA man I know reckons some of the filters might be blocked (?), seeing as I haven't run her all winter (I blew & tyre and had to get a couple imported from over there, so she's not moved in the last 4 months)...
:)
I just bought the Meskegon Brake 340 pound spring for about $275 with shipping, etc. Haven't had a chance to put it in yet but have heard good things about it.
Mike,
I would make sure that my strut rods were not the cause of the wheels being out of alignment. This should be checked even if you intend to replace the spring.
The cheapest way to replace the spring will be to repllace it with a 9 leaf original steel spring, about $100 in the US. The fiberglass spring will give you a different ride, not necessarily better. It will also save some weight and cost about $300 in the US.
I have a car with the steel spring and one with the TRW fiberglass spring. I cant say one rides better than the other.
Ed
I replaced mine with the stock steel spring. Did it myself and it took two weekends. Mainly because I took the spring out one weekend and waited for the other to show up in the little brown truck. Don't forget to replace your bushings and bolts. It's also a good time to closely check your trailing arms. The major PITA was holding the spring up and starting the bolts. I needed another hand but did it by myself with floor jacks. Good luck and be safe! :cheers:
I'd check the strut rod adjustment first for camber (tilt). However, if your spring is flat under load, you definately need a new spring. The 7 leaf would be way too stiff. Unless you are upgrading your shocks and strut rods and doing some serious driving, I'd just stick with the stock 9 leaf. When and if you upgrade the rest of the suspension, spend the money on a good fiberglass spring. You'll be happy. When I rebuilt my rear end, I saved a few bucks by buying a good used 9 leaf off a fellow forum member for $35!!!! I re-painted it and it looks and rides like new!! My rear spring was FLAT. Here is a comparison of unsprung height (before I painted the "new" spring). The taller spring (by 1 1/2"-2") is the newer spring. BIG difference in performance after install. Very happy.
Check the strut rods and your alignment before you blow $$ on a spring you probably don't need. If you undo the spring ends and it arches down then it's probably ok. Spring will be nearly flat installed.
Sorry. Don't agree. See above comparison. Old spring was flat under load. curved down when detached from spring bolts, but you can see the significant difference in unsprung height. When I installed the "new"/used spring, there is now a noticeable curve to the spring under load. Not a BIG curve, but visible to the eye. It rides great and sits at the proper height.
The additional thing you have to think about is, if you upgrade the rear to a new and stiffer spring with appropriate shocks, you should also get new matched front springs and shocks.
Welcome to the forum Mike. I have to agree with some of the posts here, spring will not affect camber (wheels tilting inwards) Things that can affect that are strut rod adjustment, strut rod bushings, Differential yokes worn out inside (probably most likely cause) Need to check all these things before replacing the spring and possibly having the same problem. I went with the 330 pound mono spring from http://www.muskegonbrake.com simply because it won't fatigue and start to squeak over time like the steel ones do. Something to consider if using a composite spring you will need to get gas shocks designed for the spring. If you are doing this work yourself be very careful when removing the old spring. There is a tremendous amount of stored energy there and it must be properly supported before removing the links. If the front bumper height is within specs you probably won't need to change the front springs, but you will most likely want to install the gas shocks there as well. :cheers:
cheers guys - all this info is really helpful - as you can probably tell, it's not quite as easy to get it over here without going to a garage & I'd rather ask people who've done this sort of stuff themselves first, to try & aviod getting ripped off.
I think what I'll do is take a few pictures over the weekend & paste them onto the forum so you can actually see what it looks like & then it might be possible for you to give me some more tips (can someone tell me how to do that - do I just click on the image tab ?)
By the way, does anyone have any advice on my transmission problem ? (she sounds like a bit of a wreck, but she's actually in quite good nick, just not used for a while)
thanks again for your all your help & advice, its really appreciated (by the way, it's raining again over here, by hey..it's still the middle of May !!)
Mike
Re your auto you write "Im having touble getting her into gear". That sounds like a linkage problem. The clunking noise - is it from the front or back. ??Clunks can be sticky clutch packs in the diff (i know Ive got one ).:nopity:
Chevy autos are pretty reliable and dont tend to clunk.:thumbs:
All the posts re the spring and camber are dead right. It sounds like strut rod bushings or the rods are out of adjustment.
Check your outer spring mounts and rubbers as they can get really worn especially if the locating washer into the spring is missing.m :auto:
thanks for all yuor hrelp guys - I've taken a few digi pics - see if this helps make things a bit clearer - help !! -how do I include photos ?? - the image tab just adds a couple of IMG things when I click on it !!
can put shims below the leaf springs, this will bring up the ride hight and make the tires straight again. Its a temporary fix if you want to drive if for a few months before repairs. Took me about 1/2 hour to do mine, but i had to do them a few different heights because for some reason one side would sit a little higher than the other, so i had to do some shiming.