In my quest for no bump steer I had to make a new center link with optional center mounting point for inner tie rods. I welded a piece of metal to the top of the stock center link and then drilled 3 new holes, then used a 7 degree tapered reamer to make new mounting holes for the stock tie rod.
I tested all 4 holes shown here plus made a new set of sleeves to the correct length to match the new holes. As you can see I ended up using the center hole of the new top 3. By using the hole on either side the bump steer curve was not a straight line.
Each hole requires a 1 inch longer tie rod sleeve then the one before it.
Double click to enlarge



[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 8:04 PM 1/21/2004]

 

Shouldn't you be out playing with your other toy? So little time to play with them around here.... Get your snow suit on and go play with your skidoo.... thats an order!

You'll be forever fussing with that front end won't you?

 

How come you're missing the bellhousing dust shield?

 

Did you drive it yet?

 

You'll be forever fussing with that front end won't you?

NO Mike I hope to finish it this time around and forget it, well maybe not forget it but not have to continually working on it. I am finally doing everything I think about. If it doesn't work as planned I will do it agian next winter.
I have a 700 Viper and it is not very nice out tonight anyway but this weekend I will hopefully get out.
How's the frame comming Mike?? How about adding the gusseting we have been talking about?? Your frame was already painted so it would hurt to start welding on it but I believe the gussets are important.
Have a nice evening MIke
Norval

 

How come you're missing the bellhousing dust shield?
I never put one on. I don't drive in the rain ever and I want to keep things clean. With no cover I can wipe around in there alittle and keep an eye on things.

I have driven the car all summer with this center link and had the bump steer down to about 5/16's but even that is too much.

 

Norval,
The VERY fast C-2 based vintage race car of Mike Donahue has the inner tie rods just to the inside and above the factory hole and they use heims at the spindle, just some food for thought. ...redvetracr

 

Norval,
The VERY fast C-2 based vintage race car of Mike Donahue has the inner tie rods just to the inside and above the factory hole and they use heims at the spindle, just some food for thought. ...redvetracr

No need for food for thought on this one redvetracr. To eliminate bump steer you need 2 things. The right slope of the tie rod and the right length.
The slope required involve raising the center mounting point or lowering the outer or both, I raised my inner until it almost touches the pan on full lock turn and lowered the outer. After getting the spacer correct for the outer I machined a block and welded it to the steering arm for stability. I also use the 5/8th heim joint with a grade 9 5/8th bolt and locking nut on it.
That takes care of the slope of the tie rod.
Now the length. The length shows itself up by plotting the bump curve after using the correct measuring equipment. If the line is staight, that means equal bump out as bump in the tie rod is the correct length. If you have almost no bump out but alot of bump in the length is wrong.
The only way to correct this is lengthen the tie rod. The outer link is fixed so the only solution is move the inner. That's what I did. MOved it and continued testing.
With rough settings I was getting about .025 toe in at 3 inches body raise and agian .025 toe out at 3 inches body pulled down. It plots a straight line and the only place this happened is with this length of tie rod. I tested the longer rod but the curve started to bend again. The only thing left is to fine tune the spacer to eliminate that .025. I will settle for .010 maximum.
This is a picture of my welded spacer on the steering arm along with the heim joint.
Double click to enlarge.

Redvetracr I would love to work on a nascar team but only if I could be home every night. I am a home person and need/love to sleep with my wife and spend a few hours each night watch TV with her beside me.
I could not leave home and work out of motels. I love the work but not the seperation. :cheers: :cheers:


[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 8:21 AM 1/22/2004]

 

Ok, here's another one that I'm gonna carry half-way.

In a previous discussion, you noted that the severe bump-steer could be
drastically reduced (3/8" or so) by simply dropping the outside mounting
point. Drill the spindle - spacer - joint - done.

This is within the scope of my project.


There are two choices for mounting the outer tie rod.
Would you choose the inner or outer mounting point on the spindle ?
I would guess inner for greater strength and tighter turning radius.
Wait ... make that outer to accomodate wider tires.

ps - nice that you are resizing your pictures now, but a tad bigger would be
good. I like 800x600 for web posting.

-Dave


[Modified by NHvette, 10:09 AM 1/22/2004]

 

I would only use the inner for the better turning radius and I cut the out off to shorten the arm. As you can see the spacer is welded into place.
With just this modification you can get the bump down to about 3/8th inch. A new mustang is 3/4. You are already twice as good as that mustang/ bump that is.
Anything that help is worth it. I would love to check a stock corvette to get an idea how bad they really are. Mine has been modified so long nothing is stock any longer. I just keep reducing and reducing that bump steer.

It is cheap to modify, works but the toe will change when doing this modification so beware, toe must be set. I have a good toe gage so for me it isn't a problem. I do my own caster/camber/toe inhouse.

As for pictures I could easily go through them for size but I am very busy these days and keep jumping on here just to answer questions then back to work.

 

Nice work and it looks like a lot of testing. Did you build up material with a MIG welder, then machine it down? If so, sounds worthwile and very doable in a small shop.

 

. Did you build up material with a MIG welder, then machine it down?

No I started with a piece of steel about 1/2 inch thick, drilled about 1/2 inch holes 1 inch apart then used the proper 7 degree reamer to ream each hole for the stock tie rod end. I then welded these plates to the stock steering linkage.
The piece of steel has at least 4 inches of weld front and back so it should not be a problem with pulling off :lol:
This was done early in the summer and I never give it a thought as to failing.
I also make my own tie rod sleeves out of 1 inch hex aluminum and drill and tap left and right threads. I do them on the lathe under power so the taping is fast and straight. Takes about a minute to tap a hole.
I have 4 sets of tie rods.

 

Very nice. I like.

 

Hey norval... a quick question

When the rim is on, if you were to blow a tire would you be dragging the lower tierod bolts? I'm not sure if its camera trickery but it sure does look as though the scrub line might be one with the bolt! :cheers: