HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: absecon nj
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (comp)
are you using an older block that didnt have a roller cam, if you are you need retrofit roller lifters,roller cam,different length pushrods, and cam button so the cam doesnt walk forward.
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Team Owner
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From: eville in
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (zwede)
YEP! got GM factory roller cam, lifters,dog bone's, the retainer plate(valley)
and cam plate... except for drilling and tapping for the plate & cam retainer
is there any other surprise's ????? :eek:
and cam plate... except for drilling and tapping for the plate & cam retainer
is there any other surprise's ????? :eek:
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Plano TX
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (comp)
YEP! got GM factory roller cam, lifters,dog bone's, the retainer plate(valley)
and cam plate... except for drilling and tapping for the plate & cam retainer
is there any other surprise's ????? :eek:
and cam plate... except for drilling and tapping for the plate & cam retainer
is there any other surprise's ????? :eek:
Not sure if the early block has enough meat for drilling holes for the valley spider plate... Worst case you will have to switch to a retrofit lifter setup. They are expensive (over $300) but you don't need the valley plate with them so no drilling. With retrofit lifters you probably also need different (shorter) pushrods.
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From: Living in the Hartland
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (zwede)
Race Director
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Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (zwede)
Well, if you get a $10 cam button you don't need the retaining plate and won't have to drill in the block for it.
[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 8:31 AM 3/11/2004]
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eville in
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (zwede)
:skep: Hmmmm will a cam button last 100,000 mile's .... i know i need shorter push-rods, but i would swear (maybe not in here) i read you drill and
tap older block for the spider :confused: i think you can restrict the oil flow
(a little) going to the upper end, i have 2 to do :banghead: :banghead:
tap older block for the spider :confused: i think you can restrict the oil flow
(a little) going to the upper end, i have 2 to do :banghead: :banghead:
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From: Living in the Hartland
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (RUXperienced)
Once you have it changed over, how much is it going to cost to replace the lifters whenever you do a cam swap??
[Modified by Fevre, 12:08 PM 3/11/2004]
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (comp)
IMO - you don't need a cam button timing cover if you use quality timing chains and gears. Like the Billet Crane unit for about $100. good chains don't have much fore or aft movement. Only if your in a road racing vehicle will the cam move forward because of over one "G" braking.
I spent all this money on a roller type button and had to machine it to work with my setup. then set it's ball bearing tip .004 from the cam gear stop. Then 20,000 miles later on tear down it looked like it had barely even worn because it rarely even touched.
So this last motor I'm putting together I talked to the race shop and I went with a much cheaper stamped steel two piece solid button cover.
My advice is to put your money into quality roller lifters and timing set
[Modified by gkull, 1:04 PM 3/11/2004]
I spent all this money on a roller type button and had to machine it to work with my setup. then set it's ball bearing tip .004 from the cam gear stop. Then 20,000 miles later on tear down it looked like it had barely even worn because it rarely even touched.
So this last motor I'm putting together I talked to the race shop and I went with a much cheaper stamped steel two piece solid button cover.
My advice is to put your money into quality roller lifters and timing set
[Modified by gkull, 1:04 PM 3/11/2004]
Thread Starter
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From: eville in
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (Fevre)
well i'm going to need to do some real math :eek: Here was the plan;;;;
383 , vortec's pocket ported, roller cam (about like a XE-268 from C Cams)
roller rockers, CR @ 9.5-1/ 9.9-1 , Edelbrock performer-air-gap, Q-JET,
HEI, not sure on pistons, but will use Total Seal rings, Crank & rods will be
new also. i must do it correctly the first time OR no money for the 2nd :thumbs:
383 , vortec's pocket ported, roller cam (about like a XE-268 from C Cams)
roller rockers, CR @ 9.5-1/ 9.9-1 , Edelbrock performer-air-gap, Q-JET,
HEI, not sure on pistons, but will use Total Seal rings, Crank & rods will be
new also. i must do it correctly the first time OR no money for the 2nd :thumbs:
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From: Living in the Hartland
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (gkull)
That is interesting George, I snapped the button on my Cloyes cover when i took it off and was going to try to get a new botton for it but if what you say is true I might just go with a better timing chain, no road racing here.
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (Fevre)
Fevre - The Cloyes roller button is what i'm talking about! Mine had no clearance. So I machined the washer type end down .050 - .060 or something like that to get a range of adjustment. The way it's sold it would snap right off as soon as you tighten down the cover screws.
different timings sets will vary this distance so don't use my numbers as an absolute guide.
Once I machined it. You mount the cover tight and and turn it in till it touches then back it out .004 Rotate the motor over a bunch of times with the starter. So so the cam settles out to it's static position and then run it in and back it out .004 again. Then of course mount the water pump. It's the last things I do before firering up a new motor.
[Modified by gkull, 12:11 PM 3/11/2004]
different timings sets will vary this distance so don't use my numbers as an absolute guide.
Once I machined it. You mount the cover tight and and turn it in till it touches then back it out .004 Rotate the motor over a bunch of times with the starter. So so the cam settles out to it's static position and then run it in and back it out .004 again. Then of course mount the water pump. It's the last things I do before firering up a new motor.
[Modified by gkull, 12:11 PM 3/11/2004]
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Living in the Hartland
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (gkull)
The first time I used it I had no problems but when I was test fitting my 383 I snapped the damn thing off. I ended up buying a diff hyd flat tappet to use anyways but I was still pissed. :mad I need to contact Cloyes and see if i can get replacement parts, Summit could not find anything in their system for it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: absecon nj
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (Fevre)
ok about the plate to hold the gm lifters in place,if your using an older block and over a certain lift,the lifter will be out of the bore too high,ive tried it with a 510 lift and it didnt work so i opted for the retro style lifters.
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From: eville in
Re: HYD. ROLLER CAM from hyd. flat tappet (patsnitrovette)
i think i only need to go .470/.480" with the heads, I DO HAVE some 1.6 roller rockers so the lifter will not even see as much, (milder lobe) the 1.6's
aren't self aligning, can i install screw-in studs add use guide plate's on the
vortec heads????
aren't self aligning, can i install screw-in studs add use guide plate's on the
vortec heads????