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I'm getting a quote from a dealer that our company buys from for the 4480. Will let you know the price. Think this is the one I am going for.
Update:
Well, its not the 4480 - only 6000 candlepower. Vendor is bringing the catalogs for Wagner and GE tomorrow for me to review. Maybe I can scan the info for posting.
I think, me thinks, the first number is the horizontal distance from the light. The second number is the height of the light. Thus, a tighter number set is more spot than flood.
What we need to do is get a group purchase to get teh minimum $50.00 to eliminate the $20.00 surcharge. Say, I buy two sets and sell the other set, split the shipping to my place and charge shipping to yours....works? Yes?
Those are the "hella look" replacements. I don't think they will fit.
:nono:
to be honest.. by looking at the pictures I think they will work.
Ive tried 3 units to work in my car. http://www.cibie.net was the only one to "plug n play".
look under cibie lighting systems, sae standard euro codes then at
this a nice GLASS unit that will drop in. all you have to do is buy your favorite type of filiment to stick in the back (witch could be HID later on down the road).
here is the link to the tech paper I wrote... why they have it in the c5 section.. sigh I dunno
Called the vendor (Stasco, in Houston) and I think the salesman is on his way out to our place now. Another salesman in office says the other salesman just came in and grabbed some lighting catalogues and left.
OK, I have the Wagner and GE catalogues. GE not much help as they do not give candle power or beam spread. Wagner does. Have scanned the one page that has the comparative info on it. If someone will email me, I will email the page to them for posting here. My webpage not working now.
But, the H5001 in the post above is the best choice. The candlepower of it is 55,000 vs the stock 29,000 - almost double. All other specs and dimensions are the same.
Turns out, the low beam stock is the best combination of low beam power and high beam power. Stock has the most CP on low beam of all alternatives.
However, most importantly, if you already have halogen headlights in your car, you already have the H5001.
So, closed topic for me. Staying with what I have, just adjust driver high beam to shine right into the other lane at the right height ;)
If anyone is interested, I have an extra pair of 4537's for sale; I orderd 2 and they shipped me 4. I was originally going to send 'em back, but thought I'd offer them to you guys first.
My cost is $32 and that's what I'll let them go for. Freight is additional of course, but will be no more than $9.00 (and that's based on a shipment from here to Miami :D)
Hey 71'AirStrike, I loved your write up on the HID conversion! I read it a few months back on corvettefaq. I think i even posted the link previously in this thread. How do you like the HIDs? Does the extra heat affect anything? I was wanting to convert over to that setup but was unsure of the route to go with different companies. Great info :thumbs:
Thanks for bring those up! During my misspent youth I had them (or something similar by Lucas) in a 67 Firebird I had. In those days all we had was Amp meters ... you should have seen the meter jump when I hit 'em. You're right you cannot outdrive them. I'm buying a set next week. Thanks for the numbers!!! BTW they are great for flashing folks out of the left lane!
Just finished the GE4537 aircraft landing light mod and the MAD headlight relay mod.
First, the MAD relay is top quality for sure. Easy to install and it comes with everything you need.
Second, the GE 4537 is NOT a "plug ang play" replacement. What do I mean by that you ask ? well, the stock headlights all have alignment high spots on the back of the sealed beam, these align with slots in the metal holder. Well the 4537 is different in that the high spot is in the wrong place if you want to install the bulb with the proper orientation.
Proper orientation being this...the 4537 has a shield inside of the bulb that creates a blind sopt right above the bulb in a 180 degree circle. so the bulb should be installed with this shield pointing straight up. And the alignment high spots will not allow this in my 76.
So I did the dremel trick and cut out a new notch in the metal holder. When I say metal holder I DO NOT mean the crome ring you remove to remove the bulb...I mean the black metal holder behind the bulb. It is a quick job if you are good with a dremel and a cutoff disk.
Also, I had to transistion from the screw connector that the 4537 came with to a connector that would work with my stock hi-beam connector. Not a big deal. I de-soldered a few of the old headlight connectors and used them with some extra wire from the MAD relay kit to do the transisition.
So how do they look ?
Well first off I now have 14.5 volts going directly to all of the lights.
My low beams are brighter.
My dash lights are brighter.
If I leave the highbeams on for more then a few minutes you can see my Vette on satalight photos for South Carolina....
Re: Brighter headlights GE 4537 as high beams (Pete76Shark)
Second, the GE 4537 is NOT a "plug ang play" replacement. What do I mean by that you ask ? well, the stock headlights all have alignment high spots on the back of the sealed beam, these align with slots in the metal holder. Well the 4537 is different in that the high spot is in the wrong place if you want to install the bulb with the proper orientation.
Proper orientation being this...the 4537 has a shield inside of the bulb that creates a blind sopt right above the bulb in a 180 degree circle. so the bulb should be installed with this shield pointing straight up. And the alignment high spots will not allow this in my 76.
So I did the dremel trick and cut out a new notch in the metal holder. When I say metal holder I DO NOT mean the crome ring you remove to remove the bulb...I mean the black metal holder behind the bulb. It is a quick job if you are good with a dremel and a cutoff disk.
Also, I had to transistion from the screw connector that the 4537 came with to a connector that would work with my stock hi-beam connector. Not a big deal. I de-soldered a few of the old headlight connectors and used them with some extra wire from the MAD relay kit to do the transisition.
So how do they look ?
Well first off I now have 14.5 volts going directly to all of the lights.
My low beams are brighter.
My dash lights are brighter.
If I leave the highbeams on for more then a few minutes you can see my Vette on satalight photos for South Carolina....
I am liking this mod.
:cool:
I think did try to explain the modification to the headlight bucket in one of my previous posts. But you figured it out for yourself and got it right. :thumbs:
Instant daylight hey! :lol: Bet you can`t outdrive them. :thumbs: :cool:
A real bitchen set of lights. :lol: