Need Distributor Install Help
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (paul67)
Thanks Steve. Tightening down was not too much of a problem. Getting the bolt started in the threads in that confined space was.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (Fevre)
Thanks Steve. Tightening down was not too much of a problem. Getting the bolt started in the threads in that confined space was.
I know you like to keep it as orig as possible but a stud and nut makes it much easier to deal with, got a stainless steel set with my ARP bolt kit, they are shiney.
I know you like to keep it as orig as possible but a stud and nut makes it much easier to deal with, got a stainless steel set with my ARP bolt kit, they are shiney.
Dep
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (Fevre)
Fevre,
I do like originality but dependability is a very important consideration as well. In other words I enjoy driving very much. The Holley has given me problems for some time and although I have followed tuning tips/instructions I cannot get it to function properly. It runs rich continually, the idle screws have no effect at all, etc. In fact I will be replacing the power valve this afternoon after a hiccup session last week.
So to preserve my sanity I am going over to the dark side: modifications. I have heard good things about the Edelbrock/Carter 1406 600cfm so I assembled all the pieces to do the swap. I anticipate some hood clearance issues because the Holley air cleaner base will not fit because of interference with the electric choke and the Edelbrock base sits higher. But I will mock things up this afternoon on the spare intake shown in the pic and take measurements. I have a 2" air filter (instead of 3") so that will give me some breathing space. I have a 0.32" heat insulator/spacer but I may have to omit that. There may be throttle/kick-down linkage issues as well. We shall see.
That's my project for next week.
I do like originality but dependability is a very important consideration as well. In other words I enjoy driving very much. The Holley has given me problems for some time and although I have followed tuning tips/instructions I cannot get it to function properly. It runs rich continually, the idle screws have no effect at all, etc. In fact I will be replacing the power valve this afternoon after a hiccup session last week.
So to preserve my sanity I am going over to the dark side: modifications. I have heard good things about the Edelbrock/Carter 1406 600cfm so I assembled all the pieces to do the swap. I anticipate some hood clearance issues because the Holley air cleaner base will not fit because of interference with the electric choke and the Edelbrock base sits higher. But I will mock things up this afternoon on the spare intake shown in the pic and take measurements. I have a 2" air filter (instead of 3") so that will give me some breathing space. I have a 0.32" heat insulator/spacer but I may have to omit that. There may be throttle/kick-down linkage issues as well. We shall see.
That's my project for next week.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (GDaina)
Welcome back Dep...how ja feelin?
Paul: I have found that the Carter AFB (now owned by Edelbrock) works quite well on smallbock engines, both Ford and Chevy.
Dep
[Modified by DJ Dep, 10:28 AM 7/3/2004]
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (DJ Dep)
Thanks Steve. Tightening down was not too much of a problem. Getting the bolt started in the threads in that confined space was.
I know you like to keep it as orig as possible but a stud and nut makes it much easier to deal with, got a stainless steel set with my ARP bolt kit, they are shiney.
Good idea!!!!!
Dep
I know you like to keep it as orig as possible but a stud and nut makes it much easier to deal with, got a stainless steel set with my ARP bolt kit, they are shiney.
Good idea!!!!!
Dep
Good to see ya posting again Dep, didn't know you where dealing with health issue, hope it is not keeping you from the things you enjoy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (Fevre)
Russ: When I walk I make rattling sounds from all the pills in me 
Chris: I've been doing pretty good. Worked on the Vette today for the first time in about 6 months. First it was too cold and then it became hot/humid. I am drenched with sweat from working on it, but I got accomplished what I wanted to do. There is a link pin between the master cylinder and the brake pedal linkage that was a real ***** to get reconnected. I ended up making my own, as the original also had a real cheesey clip to hold it on. I'm still stripping parts off it to lighten the weight. Gotta tear off the wiper motor next.
Dep
Chris: I've been doing pretty good. Worked on the Vette today for the first time in about 6 months. First it was too cold and then it became hot/humid. I am drenched with sweat from working on it, but I got accomplished what I wanted to do. There is a link pin between the master cylinder and the brake pedal linkage that was a real ***** to get reconnected. I ended up making my own, as the original also had a real cheesey clip to hold it on. I'm still stripping parts off it to lighten the weight. Gotta tear off the wiper motor next.
Dep
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,951
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (paul67)
Paul,
Thanks for your interest in my letter. Many people won't go to the effort to ask for clarification in items they have questions about. Now, my reply. My method (passed on to me by a championship winning sbc racing engine builder) is just a speeded up version of what you had done. With the crank timing mark lined up, position the rotor and distributor exactly where you want it to sit, remembering that the rotor shaft will rotate a bit as it engages. Then just put it in the hole. Crank the engine 360 degrees, and the distributor will drop the rest of the small distance, and the rotor will be pointing at plugwire#6. Fire the engine up and make the final timing tweak. If you don't like where the vacuum advance unit is pointing, just pull the distributor back up, rotate the rotor one tooth, then set it back in and re-do the procedure. It actually takes me less time to install the distributor (and fire the engine) than it took me to write this. Give it a try next time, it always works. And finally, my regards to you and the rest of the guys on the forum. It's nice to "talk" to fellow enthusiasts who aren't afraid of a little grease under their nails or the occasional busted knuckle.
Mike
Thanks for your interest in my letter. Many people won't go to the effort to ask for clarification in items they have questions about. Now, my reply. My method (passed on to me by a championship winning sbc racing engine builder) is just a speeded up version of what you had done. With the crank timing mark lined up, position the rotor and distributor exactly where you want it to sit, remembering that the rotor shaft will rotate a bit as it engages. Then just put it in the hole. Crank the engine 360 degrees, and the distributor will drop the rest of the small distance, and the rotor will be pointing at plugwire#6. Fire the engine up and make the final timing tweak. If you don't like where the vacuum advance unit is pointing, just pull the distributor back up, rotate the rotor one tooth, then set it back in and re-do the procedure. It actually takes me less time to install the distributor (and fire the engine) than it took me to write this. Give it a try next time, it always works. And finally, my regards to you and the rest of the guys on the forum. It's nice to "talk" to fellow enthusiasts who aren't afraid of a little grease under their nails or the occasional busted knuckle.
Mike
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (69427)
Mike,
Thanks for the clarification. Very much appreciated and I now can see how it would work. I will try it next time. I am now working on the Edelbrock carb conversion as noted in another thread. Picked up a few Bubba parts today for the crankcase hose ventilation system. I think it will work. As to scarred hands, I was a desk jockey most of my career. But when the evening weekends came it was shade tree mechanic (albeit not a good one). I truly appreciate the time people such as yourself take to reply to neophytes like me. But when the lesson is learned, it need not be re-learned!
Thanks for the clarification. Very much appreciated and I now can see how it would work. I will try it next time. I am now working on the Edelbrock carb conversion as noted in another thread. Picked up a few Bubba parts today for the crankcase hose ventilation system. I think it will work. As to scarred hands, I was a desk jockey most of my career. But when the evening weekends came it was shade tree mechanic (albeit not a good one). I truly appreciate the time people such as yourself take to reply to neophytes like me. But when the lesson is learned, it need not be re-learned!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,384
Likes: 6,408
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (paul67)
Paul -
Just caught your post here. On that distributor alignment 2 things come to mind:
First, check that gear dimple and make sure it's pointing the same way as the rotor firing tab.
Second, it looks like you have a PerTronix system installed. The PerTronix will mess up the distributor alignment big time and cause the problem you are having. On some PerTronix systems I have had to intentionally install the distributor gear the wrong way (dimple pointing opposite the firing tab) in order to get the timing set right without the distributor hitting the manifold or the shielding.
Just caught your post here. On that distributor alignment 2 things come to mind:
First, check that gear dimple and make sure it's pointing the same way as the rotor firing tab.
Second, it looks like you have a PerTronix system installed. The PerTronix will mess up the distributor alignment big time and cause the problem you are having. On some PerTronix systems I have had to intentionally install the distributor gear the wrong way (dimple pointing opposite the firing tab) in order to get the timing set right without the distributor hitting the manifold or the shielding.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Re: Need Distributor Install Help (lars)
Thanks Lars. You have been busy I know. The folks in Canada very much enjoyed your visit! But you have heard of that already. My personal thanks for coming North.
The dimple was on backwards and I changed that around. As noted the vacuum can is mid-stream now at 10 degrees static and I will work with that. Yes I have the Pertrtonix but it has not been a problem. I now have a Sears advance timing light and will try the real way of doing timing when I get my carb problems sorted out (see other thread). If you recall I have a rebuilt points distributor in the basement and I may pop that in. But the carb is the immediate priority. Thanks for getting back to me.
The dimple was on backwards and I changed that around. As noted the vacuum can is mid-stream now at 10 degrees static and I will work with that. Yes I have the Pertrtonix but it has not been a problem. I now have a Sears advance timing light and will try the real way of doing timing when I get my carb problems sorted out (see other thread). If you recall I have a rebuilt points distributor in the basement and I may pop that in. But the carb is the immediate priority. Thanks for getting back to me.
