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$@%#% rear shock mounts

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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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Default $@%#% rear shock mounts

: : : : : I give up. I'm cutting them out. That is all
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Old Aug 8, 2004 | 10:37 PM
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Whats wrong with them? I recently swapped out shocks on my 79, and the only problem was getting them to line up perfectly for the bolt to go through, and even that wasnt too bad
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:14 AM
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lower shock mounts are frozen in the trailing arm assembly. Been pounding for an hour straight on each side. Didn't even move a hair. :
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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Cutting them out is very difficult if you want to perserve your stock strut rods. I didn't care so out came the 9" grinder. Try soaking them overnight. The thing I noticed was the flat side rusting to the bearing support ears. If the rust can be broken free then it should be easier to pop out.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:36 AM
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Don't despair. Use PB Blaster liberally and often. It took a few DAYS for one side of mine to finally break free.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 07:36 AM
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I decided to get new ones since mine were frozen in there. So I turned the castle nut around and pounded the living daylights out of it until they came out.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SnoDrgn
: : : : : I give up. I'm cutting them out. That is all
Don't give up yet! Had the same issue taking mine out, but there is a trick to it. The shock rod has a flat side to it, BUT when the rod is in standard position or pointing slightly down the flat part is rotated and locks the rod in so it doesn't pull out. Just move the rod up to a level position, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch and then give it a tap out.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 08:31 AM
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Did you put anything over the threads when you were trying to getthem out? Like a shock mount remover or a nut. If you didn't you probably mushroomed the threards and there will be no other alternative except to cut the out.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 09:23 AM
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Wait till you try the trailing arm bolt, if you think that's bad.

Good luck and keep
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by VTHokie77Vette
I decided to get new ones since mine were frozen in there. So I turned the castle nut around and pounded the living daylights out of it until they came out.
That's what I've been trying. Sprayed them twice a day every day last week and spent at least a half hour on both every day. Even bought a bigger hammer. I think they're junk anyway since when I pulled the shock off the surface wasn't even round and smooth. I'll try to take some pictures tonight.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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I hard time getting mine out also, I used a torch and heated them and they final came out.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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shock mounts don't need to be smooth. The one end w/the castle nut should have a flat spot on it also.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 11:06 AM
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I wish I had the answer for you. I have my trailing arm off the car and tried to get one of them off. All I have is a standard 16oz hammer. I am going to try soaking them and get a BFH. Some suggested using a nut and a small bolt, thread the nut half way on the mount and screw the bolt into the remaining threads unitl it bottoms out on the shock mount. That way you can pound on the bolt and tranfer the energy right to the mount and not damage the threads.
I'm not sure if mine are as bad as others due to the fact that everything else has come apart with ease; even the trainling arm bolts came out with only a slight tap of the hammer.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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Default Shock mount

Be careful. My friend broke his spindle support knocking out one of the mounts.

Dan
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 01:12 PM
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I just replaced my camber struts on my 72, and the lower shock mounts took a little while to submit to my will. I used the remover tool that threads onto the end of the shock mount in place of the castle nut. Liberal use of Blaster, and then some propane heat seemed to be what it required.

When reassembling, use copious quantity of Never Sieze paste for future removal ease!

All in all, not as bad as other chores on these puppies.

"There is no such thing as too big a hammer"



NJ BB Ken

Last edited by BBNJKen; Aug 9, 2004 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Add never sieze use!
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 01:44 PM
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I went and got 2 grade 8 nuts and threaded them onto the shock mount and tightened the together. I then wacked the sh*% out of it with my 8 lb hammer. It also helped using a can of PB blaster. They are toast so new ones are in order. My T-arm bolts almost fell out on their own though .....go figure.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 05:56 PM
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I don't think these things are worth saving anyway





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To $@%#% rear shock mounts

Old Aug 10, 2004 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mrcorvette79
Don't give up yet! Had the same issue taking mine out, but there is a trick to it. The shock rod has a flat side to it, BUT when the rod is in standard position or pointing slightly down the flat part is rotated and locks the rod in so it doesn't pull out. Just move the rod up to a level position, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch and then give it a tap out.



i thought the knurl near the shoulder is what locks the thing in??
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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 01:14 PM
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What has likely happened is that the inner sleeve of the strut
rod bushing has fused (with rust) to the shock mount.
I ended up cutting through my strut rod end and grinding away
at the inner sleeve to get mine out. I replaced with adjustable
strut rods from VBP. Well, truth be told - it was for nothing.
Mine were also rusted in the shock mount area like
yours. They are too loose to use now. The end of the shock will
flop around on that. Buy new (or good used) ones.

For getting the old ones out, try a 2 or 3 jaw puller - but grab the far side
of the bearing support to pull against, or you will end up breaking
off the bearing support ear.

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Old Aug 10, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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Well, guess I wuz lucky, but next time....I"M having a welder buddy make up a set from stainless.....complete with sleeves/whatever....

job dun right...

GENE
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