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What are your opionions on the new Solid Rollers vs the Hydraulic Flat Tappet cams? I am looking at several different options right now on a 427/435 rebuild, and I would like to hear the pros and cons of both.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The solid roller in my motor is great I would encourage anyone to try this type of cam providing you have the rest of parts to go with it including good heads. They make power in the upper RPMs usually starting at 3000RPM but you can tool around town at 1500RPM RPM in 4th no problem. The cam I have ( CCXR280R ) makes the motor behave like a "normal" engine but you punch the gas at 3000RPM and all heil breaks loose including the tires.
YOu have to adjust them every now and then and I have had to adjust mine 3 times so far in 2500 miles but I hoping the valve train is "worn in " now and won't have to adust so often. The cost is at least 4 times as much as a hydraulic flat tappet and you need roller rockers, much much stiffer springs etc. Well worth it though
Roller lifters must be good since they're offered in so many OEM engines. In principle the roller cam offers superior performance to a flat tappet camshaft. However, I've talked to a few of engine builders who won't use aftermarket roller cams in a street engine because of lack of reliability at low RPM (i.e. stop & go traffic, idling). One builder has a bunch of horror stories of rollers seizing and wiping out the cam lobes. Yet OEM roller cams are very reliable. This varied experience leaves me a bit confused because I'm in the process of looking for a new engine but I wonder how reliable a roller cam would be. Any similar experience?
Roller lifters must be good since they're offered in so many OEM engines. In principle the roller cam offers superior performance to a flat tappet camshaft. However, I've talked to a few of engine builders who won't use aftermarket roller cams in a street engine because of lack of reliability at low RPM (i.e. stop & go traffic, idling). One builder has a bunch of horror stories of rollers seizing and wiping out the cam lobes. Yet OEM roller cams are very reliable. This varied experience leaves me a bit confused because I'm in the process of looking for a new engine but I wonder how reliable a roller cam would be. Any similar experience?
You can get a newer (87+) roller block and go with OEM type lifters, believe 87+ trucks have 4 bolt mains and provision for roller lifters. Think the main problem with retro kits is the lifters a very heavy compared to even a OEM roller lifter.
I have been running a Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller cam in 1970 4 bolt main 350 I have in a 68 Camaro for close to 10 years now. Never had a problem with it all. Nice single pattern cam. Not a ton of duration or super radical but but has .525 lift.
Like others of have said not for high rpm's and I don't need high rpms for this application.
Roller lifters must be good since they're offered in so many OEM engines. In principle the roller cam offers superior performance to a flat tappet camshaft. However, I've talked to a few of engine builders who won't use aftermarket roller cams in a street engine because of lack of reliability at low RPM (i.e. stop & go traffic, idling). One builder has a bunch of horror stories of rollers seizing and wiping out the cam lobes. Yet OEM roller cams are very reliable. This varied experience leaves me a bit confused because I'm in the process of looking for a new engine but I wonder how reliable a roller cam would be. Any similar experience?
The aftermarket rollers having low rpm problems are solid rollers. Hydraulic rollers have excellent reliability records, both OEM and aftermarket. The retrofit version with link bars have given some people grief, although mine have been fine for years.
The problems with solid rollers comes from running very stiff springs. The high spring pressure places high loads on the roller bearings. You could of course design a solid roller cam with gentle ramps and run soft springs and have it live forever, but then what's the point of spending the money for a roller if you're running gentle lobes anyway? Just go with a hydroller and you get rid of the adjustments as well.
i have a c4 but a motor is a motor eh... Depends what kind of motor you are building. Are you buiding a torque monster?? sounds like it to me. I used a solid roller in my 388 LT4 but i had to upgrade everything because i wanted High rpm power ( 7700 rpm redline) i had to use a forged crank and crossdrilled it for better oiling at higher rpms.. lightened billet rods, light pistons etc.. the valvetrain was upgraded as well, titanium valves, retainers, t&D shaft rockers etc etc.. you dont have to go spend all out like i did but i do have a MONSTER on the highways, and ever heard a v-8 spinning 7700 rpm with a B&B exhaust?? Its freaked sooo many people out . and i love it
If you are building a 427 then im guessing you will have a longer stroke as well.. longer strokes revving high is a recipe for disaster unless you spend on top quality parts. Im guessing a 427 should make tons and tons of tourque and id suggest a hydraulic roller all the way. The disadvantages are some more weight in the valvetrain as they hold oil. the advantages?? theres many, smoother idles, more aggresive ramps.. longer life... no need for setting lash.. etc etc.
I have used flat tappets, hydraulic rollers and solid rollers. I am currently running a street solid roller and love it (see my sig.). I check adjustment every 3000 miles when I change my oil and usually there is no change. I have about 36,000 miles on this set up with no issues.