Now that i have fixed the error of my Cam ways, it is time to put it all back together and fire the motor up once again!
This was my only glaring mistake, besides my choice of cams, during the initial engine rebuild. I struggled with valve adjustment for days before i finally got it close enough that the motor started and was able to have a friend adjust them correctly with the engine running! I want to avoid that problem this time around, i've read articles on valve adjustment, listened to all the backyard mechanics, and now i want the absolute best way to do the job right the first time. Thus i am soliciting guidance from the corvette experts............help!

 

I use Comp Cams recommended method. It works really well if you have a remote starter switch so you can rotate the engine without having to turn the key. Check out step #11 in the instructions http://www.compcams.com/Technical/In.../Files/145.pdf It's a piece of cake to do.

 

I followed Lars advice in his valve adjusting paper. Worked great,easiest way to adjust valves that I remember.
I believe the paper is on www.corvettefaq.com
Gary

 

easiest way to adjust valves and no mess

 

Thanks for the reference to the Lars paper. This weekend I'm going to change my head gaskets and that paper is just what I needed to get the valves re-adjusted.

 

Just a quick note on this one:
My paper describes an easy and accurate way of setting the lash, but 2 cautions are in order based on observations I have made:

First, as noted in the paper, you want to "twirl" the pushrod between your fingers, and..."The instant you feel the “twirl” friction change between your fingers, you are at “0” lash. STOP." This is zero lash. Note that after you have reached this point, the lifter will bleed down, and the pushrod will feel like it's loose again. I have seen people snug the rocker arm back up until the pushrod is tight again, only to have the lifter bleed back down. They will then "chase" the adjustment all the way down until the lifter plunger is bottomed out in the bottom of the lifter body, and then give the adjustment another 1/2 turn. This, obviosly, will produce disasterous effects. You also want to make sure that your socket is not cocking the rocker arm or rubbing against it during the adjustment, giving a false sensation of hitting the zero lash point.

The 1/2 turn adjustment noted in the paper is a good performance setting. However, I have seen some new lifters on the market from unknown sources that will not run quiet at 1/2 turn. Stock-type lifters for late-model GM cars require a full turn adjustment before they will run quiet. My best advice is to use the 1/2 turn setting. If you get a bunch of valvetrain noise, run the adjusters down another 1/2 turn. All good performance lifters I have worked with run well at 1/2 turn.

Have fun wrenching on the car!

 

i couldnt find Lars paper on valve adjustment?

what is the title?

thanks
R.

 

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ValveLashTechpaper2.doc

 

Lars,
I didn't twirl the push rods, but rather I checked for up/down movement. I stopped when I removed the play and then adjusted 1/2 turn more.
I found I couldn't get a good feel by twirling the push rods. It seemed to be to much varience- but that could just be me too.
Gary

 

Gary -
The up-n-down test works just fine, too. Whatever it takes to verify that you're right at "zero" with all lash removed and without any pre-load on the lifter. I've done the up-n-down as you describe, but prefer the "feel" of the twirl method. Others have stated as you do that it's hard to get your fingers in there with the engine assembled. I usually set my lifters before I install the manifold, so that makes twirling the pushrods a lot easier...

Everyone:
For latest version of the paper, drop me an e-mail request to:
V8FastCars@msn.com