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Damn Radiator..!

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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 07:01 PM
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Default Damn Radiator..!

What makes the coolant act like battery acid in a six yr. old radiator when the car is driven 3k per year?
Repaired it once, its leaking from different veins now.
Its a copper\brass radiator...GM replacement on an L-82
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 78pacer
What makes the coolant act like battery acid in a six yr. old radiator when the car is driven 3k per year?
Repaired it once, its leaking from different veins now.
Its a copper\brass radiator...GM replacement on an L-82
Your L82 would have been equipped with the heavy-duty unit (GM#3036856) used for Corvettes with L82, C60 or ZN1 which includes the V01 heavy-duty radiator.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 06:57 AM
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it's no consolation i know, but i only got 7 yrs out of a Modine brand radiator for my 79 under similiar circumstances. a cheap replacement was a 84-92 camaro radiator from autozone for $118, had to change a few things, but it works, lifetime warranty. as to what causes this??? some things to check make sure the ground to the motor is hooked up and try flushing the system yearly. i was told all this when i had problems with a chrome gooseneck corroding every driving season, the parts guy said my ground wasn't hooked up or the anti freeze was old or they had left acid in the motor when rebuilt. he had answer for everything!!! to my knowledge my 79 with about 102k, has had at least 4 radiators, the original, the modine that was in it when i bought it, the modine i put in it, and the plastic, alum camaro rad that i put in last year.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 07:34 AM
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An old trick is to put in a jar of Barsleak when you refill. This does coat the interior surface and may give some extra protection. Their are people that put a jar into their brandnew car as soon as thay get home from the dealer. This sure doesn't help you now though.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:05 AM
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Your problem is called electrolysis. It is caused by a stray current runing thru your Corvette. The best way to isolate this problem is to start the car, turn on all components, lift the hood, pull the radiator cap, get an analog voltage meter and stick the red prong into the radiator filler neck where you removed the radiator cap, ground the black prong, have somebody else one by one turn off all components that are turned on, when the voltage meter goes down to zero on the analog gauge you have found your problem. Properly ground this problem component and this should not happen again after the new radiator is installed. Remember not to mix red and green fluid.

Tony
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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Some cars will have a voltage potential between engine and rad no matter what you do. For these you can get a Zink rad cap. It's a regular rad cap with a zink electrode hanging down into the coolant. This acts as a sacrificial lamb... it will be consumed instead of the radiator. Very common in marine applications but sometimes you need them on an automotive application also. Not driving the car much makes the problem worse.
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 10:07 PM
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Thanks to all that replied. When I removed what was left of the raped emissions equiptment, from when Bubba went thru it, I did remove a ground strap I thought was redundant. That was abou 6 yrs ago. Perhaps its time to revisit the Assy. manual to see where it went.
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 12:15 AM
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Copper in the radiator can be electrically connected to the aluminum in your intake manifold by the water in the coolant. Copper plus aluminum in the presence of water forms an electrolytic cell. This electrolytic action is corroding the copper in the radiator.

One thing I do is I only use pure antifreeze in the Corvettes - no water. The coolant passages in my 36 year old 68 Corvette are rust/corrosion free. I first started using pure antifreeze (etheylene glycol) in 1975 when an acquaintance who was a tank mechanic in the Army reserves mentioned that Army tanks then used pure antifreeze. World War II liquid cooled aircraft engines also used pure antifreeze.
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