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Background: I'm doing a cam swap in my 454. We've got the heads off. Had to helicoil one of the bolt holes in the dampener after pulling the threads in it. Got some new grade 8 bolts for the puller and it's installed on the dampener.
All I can say is WOW. The front of this Fluidampr balancer is heavily scarred...probably from a hammer. And it won't come off. I've taken balancers off before but this one takes the cake. I cannot turn the ratchet that's attached to the puller without my 3-foot-piece-of-pipe-over-the-ratchet breaker bar. It's that tight. I've been soaking the crank snout in PB Blaster for the past 2 days and it's still no go. I'm about at my wit's end with this thing and need some advice. What other options do I have?
EDIT: this thing looks like a Fluidampr part # 800111 but I can't find a part # on it to verify. The only numbers I see on it are H001996.
Aftermarket balancers such as ATI and Fluidamper have to be honed to fit. This is especially important with aftermarket cranks, but often you also need to hone it for a GM crank. Sounds like they didn't hone it and just whacked it on with a sledge... I would seriously consider throwing it in the trash once you finally get it off... If you're seeing hammer marks on it chances are it is damaged.
I agree Markus. But how to get the dayum thing off?!?!
Can I use a torch to get it off? Would the heat damage the front main bearing? I don't care if it damages the dampener, gonna melt it down to a pile of slag after it comes off.
I'd be worried that the torch would heat up the crank as well as the balancer and wouldn't really loosen it any.
You said the puller will turn if you use a breaker bar on it, so that's the way I'd go. Probably wreck the puller, but they're fairly cheap. Try to find oneof the better ones that has a bearing at the end. A lot of the resistance you feel is the end of the puller shaft grinding. Also be sure to insert a bolt into the crank, and drill a hole in the head. That way the end of the puller shaft has something to ride against. If you don't have a sacrificial bolt in the crank the puller will mess up the crank threads. Don't ask me how I know....
I can uderstand the concerns about using heat to assist removal but it sounds like this is your only option. Do you have access to a cutting torch? If so, install a "rose bud" tip for heating.
With the puller highly tensioned, apply the flame to the balancer, around but not on the crank. It's worth a try and may take less heat than you think. If it doesn't come off fairly quickly you will have to wait 'til it all cools back to room temp because the heat will finally sink into the crank causing an equal amount of expansion on balancer and crank.
The center of the puller should help some by acting as a heat sink on the crank.
Your in one of those binds that we all dread but you will prevail.
Believe me, I'm not arguing with you but how much heat would it take to damage the crank? How does it hurt it. Obviouly if you made it glow red, that would be bad.
I'm just trying to understand. You might keep me from ruining one in the future.
I agree Markus. But how to get the dayum thing off?!?!
Can I use a torch to get it off? Would the heat damage the front main bearing? I don't care if it damages the dampener, gonna melt it down to a pile of slag after it comes off.
Brett
go rent a hydraulic damper puller that uses a portapower to pull the damper.
I would think if it only takes honing to get the proper fit, a bit of heat around the crank hole with tension from a puller will pop it right off without ruining the crank. Annealing requires heating to over 400 (600?) degrees, and heat treating to over 1000. Are cranks heat treated to begin with? Joe
Use a Dremel tool with a thin cutting blade to cut thru the hub. If you don't have one handy, use an angle grinder. If you cut into the damper far enough to get into the fluid, roll the cut to the bottom and drain it completely. Once your cut is as close to thru the hub as you can get it, use a cold chisel in the groove you just cut and whack it with a hammer. It should break the hub and the chisel will hold the crack open wide enough for it to slide right off. I tear down rusty engines all the time and that's the method I've found works every time when I come across a stubborn one. If you have a steel crank, it's not worth taking a chance on getting it too hot and having a brittle snout. HTH
I should probably rule out heat. I've asked around locally, and the majority here say the same thing.....no heat.
More info on the hyd damper puller using a portapower. What is that? Where can ya get em?
I just used an Dewalt electric impact wrench rated at 250 lbs on it....no go.
Since it's a 2-piece design, I'm going to separate it tomorrow and look into cutting it off with my trusty dremel unless I get more info on the hydraulic puller.
Sounds like they didn't hone it and just whacked it on with a sledge... I would seriously consider throwing it in the trash once you finally get it off... If you're seeing hammer marks on it chances are it is damaged.
Couldn't the crankshaft have been damaged too, after this kind of installation?
I should probably rule out heat. I've asked around locally, and the majority here say the same thing.....no heat.
More info on the hyd damper puller using a portapower. What is that? Where can ya get em?
I just used an Dewalt electric impact wrench rated at 250 lbs on it....no go.
Since it's a 2-piece design, I'm going to separate it tomorrow and look into cutting it off with my trusty dremel unless I get more info on the hydraulic puller.
Thanks for the help so far...keep it coming!
Brett
check the big auto tool rental places. these thing put out tons of pressure
check the big auto tool rental places. these thing put out tons of pressure
Like where? Chain store? Got a name? I looked in the yellow pages. Didn't see anything. I'll call a friend that owns a auto repair biz on Monday. See if he knows.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Check ur puller set up.
I ruined some of the crank threads before i realized the puller was setup wrong. :o I was lucky enough to be able to clean the remaining good threads with a tap/thread chaser. I just can't recall now but maybe i had forgot the bolt in the crank snout too. Anyways the dampner fought me like hell until i got the puller set it up right but worked great once i figured it out. Just lucky i didn't ruin the snout completely.
So what i'm saying is go back to first base and start over or at least have a second set of eyes look it over.
Good luck. cardo0