Stick - TH200R4 conversion - What do I need?

In order to mount the tranny into my car - what parts will I need.. I'm sure that I'll need a tranny mount.. but other than that?? Will the TH200R4 fit into my fixed crossmember?? (If it fits - getting it in won't be a problem because the engine will be out of the car when the tranny is going in)
Any advice is appreciated!
I'm unsure of the differences between the manual and automatic steering lockout machanics, but you could do without it as long as you always make sure you're in Park when you start 'er up.
You will also need a flexplate if you aren't getting one with your transmission. When I did the opposite swap I ended up needing a different sized starter than stock.... I don't quite remember why. It might have something to do with my flywheel choice.
Definitely don't forget the yoke and driveshaft. You may need to have the driveshaft modified to make up for length differences and maybe even a new yoke depending on the spleen count of your existing yoke.
I have the console plate, shifter and cable from when I made the opposite swap in my '72. I have no idea what they're worth, so make me an offer. I may also have a flexplate, but I'd have to look through my stuff to be sure.
-Jason

I'm gonna keep my pedals.. I might just remove the clutch pedal.. I'm mainly concerned about mounting the transmission in the tunnel etc.. I know that I'll need a shifter, yoke,driveshaft and flexplate... but I wonder if I need something else...

I have no idea what they are worth.. I'll check around and make you a good price!!
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I actually have a buyer and backup buyer for it.. but I don't know if they still want to go through with the deal when the tranny is coming out.. I'll let you know of the deal falls through...


It's a "first" for me.. I've done some stuff.. but I've never converted a stick to an automatic
and I thought that I'd never do that because I'm totally into stick shift.. However- for bracket racing - a automatic is necessary to be competitive...
Yeah, you can get it in with the motor out ... but you KNOW
that it won't be long that you'll wanna change the torque
converter ... or pull the tranny for some other reason.
Or you could leave it as is, leave the manual pedals in place
and have the easy option of switching back some day.
It's easier to go 4sp>>auto than the other way around.






Yeah, you can get it in with the motor out ... but you KNOW
that it won't be long that you'll wanna change the torque
converter ... or pull the tranny for some other reason.
Or you could leave it as is, leave the manual pedals in place
and have the easy option of switching back some day.
It's easier to go 4sp>>auto than the other way around.

I'd go with a removable crossmember if it would be easier.. Parts and labor would be over $500.. That's not worth it for me.. I wouldn't spend more than $200 for that...

I know that site.. They sell crossmembers, but the 700R4 uses a different crossmember than the 200R4... Well - the main problem isn't getting a crossmember.. It's removing the old one and installing the new one.. I don't have the equipment to do those tasks...
that's about all I used to convert,....all I did was hack off the clutch pedal up high, so I still have a stick shift brake pedal...no biggie...literally....
the console sports a custom shift plate from a sports award/placque engraver for 15 bux.....
the shifter is a modded stock stick unit....just one lever left going to the tranny, and a Hurst shift handle from God knows where....
the 700 I have is about 2.5 some odd inches longer on the mount position than the Muncie, and also lower by about 1.5 inches or so....the mounting shoe was modded to fit the auto, I"m sure the 200 would take even less modding, if any at all....
the stick output yokes are larger diamter then the 700 and so I would assume the 200, you need a thm350 yoke, OR one from a NON vette application will work ok, but you can't get the driveshaft outta the car without pulling the rear in that case...
the auto shifters do not easily fit the floorboards, but can be made to work without too much crap....I didn't bother, as I wanted the Hurst tag on my car there....and I LOVE my * ball shifter, fits my hand palm just fine....comfy as hell....
the electricals are a snap, really....
When my 700 hit the dust about 3 years ago or so, I cut the welded cross thwart on my car, and welded some nice sizeable L channel steel to it, and so it straddles the stubs on the frame rails, and so was drilled for a single 1/2" bolt per side, set in fore/aft, so the unit pulls to the rear for dropping....strong as dirt, and no problems in 3 years daily driving over our crappy roads either....
GENE











