I got all the parts FROM YOUR LIST today including this

and just finished adjusting the secondary transition slots but had a question. In both your instructional, the Demon instruction book and the interactive DVD that comes with the carb they show adjusting the idle speed screw once obtaining the proper idle fuel mixture but only show adjusting the driver’s side but obviously there is one idle sped screw on both sides and if one is adjusted more than the other that will throw off the transition slot adjustment or at very least have the cylinders with disproportionate levels of fuel at idle. I would assume since it there are two idle speed screws I would turn the exact amount on both correct?
Also they make mention of adjustment of the the “Idle –Exe” plate which is a Phillips screw found in the air cleaner stud hole dead center of the carb. I see a Phillips screw down there so I think I have it. Here’s what they say;

The new Idle-Eze™ Base plate eliminates the need to drill holes in your carburetor's butterflies, or other modifications to obtain the proper idle speed and transition response. It provides a quick and easy way to acquire the best idle quality, throttle response, and drivability. Valve is easily accessed with a screwdriver through the air cleaner stud hole. Can be fine-tuned after the throttle shaft position has been set. The new Idle-Exe baseplate allows you to set your idle speed while maintaining the correct orientation of the butterflies with the transfer slots. This provides better control of the idle mixture screws, and result sin a cleaner idle crisper throttle response, and quicker tuning. The new base plate also helps in over coming idling difficulties in engine s with larger camshafts. Click on pictures here http://www.barrygrant.com/images/dem...ze-cutaway.jpg and http://www.barrygrant.com/images/dem...eplate-top.jpg

Okay after they explain setting the transition slots and adjusting the idle mixture screws, by the way the video says they wet tested at the factory and 90% of the time need no adjustment so I plan not to touch them. It says

Use the screwdriver through the air cleaner stud hole to control the engine’s RPM.
So does that mean I use only the Idle-Exe and never touch the speed screws, or get the idle speed close using the idle speed screws (both of them) and then use the Idle-Exe to get it exact or what??
There is no mention of this in any documentation provided.

A million adjustments. God this thing is difficult.

V/r

David S. Oakey
davidoakey@hotmail.com

 

LARS you out there buddy??

ttt

 

Set the primary and secondary transition slots as described. Also take note of how many turns each takes to get the proper transition slot exposure. Mine were 3/4 of a turn each. This way if you ever feel it is off or someone else tunes your car, you can reset it without removing the carb. The mixture screws are close for initial startup and the engine should idle. Once your engine warms to at least 160 degrees, set your mixture screws (all 4). If your idle RPM is above or below then turn the "idle-eze" screw for proper idle RPM. I'm sure LARS will have some additional info for you but this should get you going until he can respond.

 

Appreciate Eric.

 

Cali -
I'm out of town on business right now, and I haven't been home for over a week - should be home by the weekend.

On your questions:
Yes, you always want to set your idle speed evenly between the primary and secondary idle speed screws after you've established the .020" transition slot exposure - keep them balanced and even.

BG claims that all heir carbs are tested. Alhough they make a good product, I have my doubts as to their testing program: About 50% of the BG carbs I work on right out of the box have severe leaks, imbalanced settings, and the mixtures are WAY off. One of our Forum members in the DC area brought me out a brand new BG carb for setup, and it had a broken float bowl screw seal that made the carb POUR fuel out of the primary bowl area. There's no way the carb ever could have been wet tested without this being detected. So I don't trust the factory settings at all - they're not even close.

Use the Idle-Eze screw if you find that you need to adust the idle speed screws up more than 1/4 turn open from the .020" exposure setting. If you need more idle speed, set the screws back to the .020" setting and adjust idle speed with the Idle-Eze. If you expose more than .020" of the transition slot, you will not be running on the idle circuit, and you will end up with an off-idle stumble.

I have found that idle mixture screws need to be in the 3/4 to 1/2 turn range on the BG carbs. Keep them all evenly set as outlined in my paper. Thay are sensitive as you get them into their range, so adjust them in 1/8 turn increments as you get close.

If you're running a stock exhaust system with cast iron manifolds, you can gain better performance by dropping the jet sizes by one or two sizes at all 4 corners. If you have headers with a free flowing muffler system, the stock jetting works pretty well.

 

LARS the carb idles at 1000RPM minumum even with the idle speed screws backed all the way out, i.e. they are not controlling idle. I cut back 1/2 on the A/F mixture screws and there was nop change in idle speed. The Idle-Exe does not operate, I tried turning it both ways and it wouldn't budge and it looks bottomed out so I gave up on it for fear of stripping it. It idles good runs good, probably a little rich but drives well with little to no hesitation, okay a little bit...lol.

looking forward to your trip out. Got tickets??

 

Cali -
If the carb idles with the idle speed screws backed all the way out (throttles closed), you have a vacuum leak problem somewhere. With throttles closed, all air through the venturies is sealed off. If it can operated without airflow through the throttles, the air has to be coming from someplace where it shouldn't...

I've been here in CA for the past few weeks and haven't been able to arrange tickets yet due to work. Will do so this weekend when I get back to CO.

 

Hey Lars, let me know when you plan on visiting Toronto again, I missed you last time around. By the way, Sutton is the beer drinking, ice fishing, ATV riding capital of Canada!

 

I'll search for leaks, first. Any ideas, could it be thru the PCV? (stupid question I know) How about a soap bubble test by the intake, obviously the flame test can't be done becuase of wind coming off the fan blade. Also can the transition slots be checked without removing the carb i.e. the slots are 5/8" long, the butterflies are .030 thick thus the slots remaining are= ???

 

David did you get the addendum page for the idle eaze set up with your instructions??? I can't tell from you post if your "transfer slots" are both set at .020 or if the primary is set at .020 and the secondaries are at the bottom of the slot?
on my 650 vacuum secondaries BG speed demon that i just got this addendum changes the instructions from the video on the "transfer slots" significantly.. the video and instruction booklet say .020 both primaries and secondaries but the addendum says .020 primaries and bottom of slot for secondaries. heres the website

http://www.barrygrant.com/bgfuel/default.aspx?page=82

this has the New instructions in case you need them.

 

Bob I have that but since lost my settings messing with the idle screws. I have new fuel fittings coming in so when they arrive I plan to pull the carb, reset that to what you said and hope to God I can get that easy idle to unseat. It's a deep hole and all my screwdrivers want to round that screw out. Thanks for the info.

 

good luck... i'm about 3 weeks behind you on this project so pls post what you find out... hopefully i wont have the same problem but your experience will sure help if i do.. what size/model demon are you using? thks bob

 

BG Speed Demon 750 mechanical secondary.