Ugh
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,508
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From: Wisconsin
Nuetral safety switch is easy to get to. Pull the side panel off the console on the passenger side, unplug it, put a wire with some alligator clips on the ends to jump it. When you get just nothing from the key on but the gauges and stuff come to life then I would think that it'd be neutral safety switch. If your gauges are all dead start checking the battery.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,958
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From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
well.. here's what I checked.
starter connections are all good and tight.
went to the battery connections, they're all tight.
tried starting the car again, volt meter read 0
so it leads me to believe its the battery. I'll throw it on the slow charge
starter connections are all good and tight.
went to the battery connections, they're all tight.
tried starting the car again, volt meter read 0
so it leads me to believe its the battery. I'll throw it on the slow charge
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
If you have a multi meter check the voltage at the battery. The nwork your way down the line. If your volt meter reads zero it does sound like the battery but it went pretty quick from the garage to the driveway.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 26,545
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From: Huntersville NC
At least 3 maybe 4 times I had problems starting and thought it was the starter, alt, or other, and every time it was the battery (Or connections to the battery). You'd think I would learn, right? 
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,958
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From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by Gordonm
If your volt meter reads zero it does sound like the battery but it went pretty quick from the garage to the driveway.
I drove it around the block.. I just put the cyl head back on. I'm gunna check the voltage at the battery in about 30 seconds..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 888
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From: Angola IN
CI 5-6-7-8-9 Veteran
Cruise-In 7 Car Show Winner
Originally Posted by Corz
I drove it around the block.. I just put the cyl head back on. I'm gunna check the voltage at the battery in about 30 seconds..
Worst case you can jump the posts on the starter, and check for crank that way.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
In the meantme just run a jumper across the two purple ones to see if it is the problem. If you want to check and see if you are getting 12 volts at the starter when you hit the key. You will need two people for this. Check the purple wire when you hit the key. This is the one tha tgives juice to the selonoid. If no juice probably the NSS
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Take the connections loose at the battery and reinstall. Every time I've had or heard of a sudden no-crank, it's been the connections at the battery. Sometimes they seem tight and aren't sometime they look clean and they aren't. I'd bet my hat on connections.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Originally Posted by Gordonm
Check the purple wire when you hit the key. This is the one that gives juice to the selonoid. If no juice probably the NSS
its the NSS
no one carries it locally either
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Middletown Connecticut
Cruise-In IV Veteran
i just checked everything out with my dad, the nss does have power
same with the battery..
and one side of the solenoid (outside, orange wire) reads 15v
the inside reads ZERO. so...
I'm not sure if both wires should be giving juice, or if only one should
same with the battery..
and one side of the solenoid (outside, orange wire) reads 15v
the inside reads ZERO. so...
I'm not sure if both wires should be giving juice, or if only one should
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
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From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
On the solenoid the three terminals are
1 the large terminal with power from the battery
2 The small terminal 'R' with the power from the ignition switch (key in start position)
3 The small terminal 'S' with the yellow wire that goes to the coil, bypasses the resistor wire when starting
Steve
1 the large terminal with power from the battery
2 The small terminal 'R' with the power from the ignition switch (key in start position)
3 The small terminal 'S' with the yellow wire that goes to the coil, bypasses the resistor wire when starting
Steve
Last edited by stpman; Oct 9, 2004 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Corrected info
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by stpman
On the solenoid the three terminals are
1 the large terminal with power from the battery
2 The small terminal 'S' with the power from the ignition switch (key in start position)
3 The small terminal 'R' with the yellow wire that goes to the coil, bypasses the resistor wire when starting
Steve
1 the large terminal with power from the battery
2 The small terminal 'S' with the power from the ignition switch (key in start position)
3 The small terminal 'R' with the yellow wire that goes to the coil, bypasses the resistor wire when starting
Steve
On the NSS you should have 12 volts in and 12 volts out when you are in park or neutral. In other gears you will have 12 in but nothing out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
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From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
If the yellow wire has 12 volts in the ON position then the resistor wire to the coil would be always bypassed. The yellow wire should only have 12 volts during starting.
I had the 'R' & 'S' backwards in the above post now corrected
I had the 'R' & 'S' backwards in the above post now corrected
Last edited by stpman; Oct 9, 2004 at 07:28 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 45
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From: Polliat (FRANCE)
