We got 12 more HP and 22 more Foot Pounds of Torque!
This is compared with the last Dyno Tuning which was six weeks ago.

Peak HP at the wheels 255 and torque at 343, with air fuel range of 12.3 down to 12.0 at anything above 5400 RPM.

Seat of the Pants feel: Great improvement, because the carb is now setup properly. Transition points are smooth and right-on .... the secondaries open when they should now too.

Thanks Lars!

NEXT ENGINE MOD: a set of heads that will flow some air past 4500 and bring my rear wheel HP to 300 or so.

 

That's good to hear!

 

Wow that's pretty good Lars knows what he is doing I swapped a cam and only got ten HP. What heads do you have on there now ?

 

 

Congrats Paul. You're getting up there in HP and torque!

 

They are Cast Iron 1.94's ... they do have pocket porting/polishing and a three-angle valve job on Stainless valves. Also screw-in studs of course and the Edlebrock Performer intake was port-matched to the heads.

But all that money I put into them could have and should have been put into a set of AFR or Edlebrock aluminum heads instead, while building the engine.

One thing that I didn't mention was that the Lars Tuning Effect did get rid of my part throttle ping (cast iron heads?) which even the Dyno Shop couldn't tune out of it!

 

What cam are you running?

 

Those are great numbers.

Out of curiousity, I'm in central california so I know what you have to go through.

What kind of smog equipment do you have on there?
and what kind of "smog equipment" do you have on there?

I'm trying to get a 78' chevy 4wd pickup equipped with all the stuff to pass our state's lovely tests.

 

The cam is a Crane 272H

.454/.480 lift and 272/284 duration plus the added lift of 1.6 roller rockers. 10:1 forged pistons and 6 inch H beam rods on a forged Eagle stroker assemly.

I KNOW that the iron heads are my limiting factors and they really are the only thing limiting this motor.

No smog equipt is on it right now, but when I origiinally built the motor and put it in, all the OEM stuff went on it, and it smogged just fine.

All the stuff (Edelbrock Qjet, cam, ignition system) has California Smog Acceptance numbers.

 

Paul -
Good news on the dyno numbers! Good to hear that the tuning eliminated the detonation as well: as you recall, we actually advanced the timing, and suppressed detonation through carb tuning in order to get maximum advantage out of peak cylinder pressure. Based on your current A/F ratio, it looks like you can drop the main jets by about 1 size to optimize the mixture just a tad, but this will slightly increase the chance of detonation again: you can play with it a little if you'd like, but I think we got it set up pretty darned close. Good job!

 

 

Paul -
I can't remember which secondary rods we have in your carb: If you give me the code off the sec rods (or post the code here), I'll send you out a set of rods that are just a tad leaner (you'll have to e-mail your address to me). This will fix your WOT A/F ratio to optimize it a tad, but will keep your primary side mixture as it is for detonation suppression. This will further increse your peak power without any side effects.

 

I think you said the rods were CH rods...does that make sense?

 

Hi Eric!
Yeah, that's probably right. Paul: drop me an e-mail with your address to:

V8FastCars@msn.com

and I'll send you out a set of sec rods that are just a touch leaner. I'd like you to try these out and see what yu think...

 

Paul that's great!
gotta hand it to the rocket scientist! (Lars)

 

That's good. After Lars did my timing, dist and carb ,I picked up 77 hp at the wheel

 

Are you serious?!

 

Yeah - no joke. He really did gain that much just from tuning. I drove the car before and after, and it was night and day.

I'll let Desi tell the whole story, but his is a classic example of bolting on several good quality parts, but never getting them all working together quite right: He did a cam change, intake change, and some other stuff that I can't recall, and ended up actually losing hp from the previous near-stock configuration. During the Tuning for Beer Tour Toronto, we went in and optimized timing and jetting to the specific combination, and the car simply came alive: just a matter of making everything work the way it was intended. Really shows that bolting the parts on isn't the big key to making power: it's tuning those parts after the install that's key.

On Paul's car, he had actually optimized the car on a dyno prior to the tuning session, and the car ran very well. But just doing a little more tweaking to set up the aftermarket parts just right still made a noticable difference; 22 ft/lbs of torque is something you can actually feel in the seat of your pants.

 

Sounds like a good beer/HP ratio to me.

 

Stewart -
The Tuning Tour has actually developed two ratios:

You got the first one: It's hp/beer.
The second one is hp/hammer hits.

We have positively determined that hammers and beers are the tuning tools of choice.