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Paint Gurus: Clear Coat Question?

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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:13 PM
  #1  
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Default Paint Gurus: Clear Coat Question?

I am painting my car and I sprayed 4 coats of clear 3 days ago. I got a lot of orange peel and am sanding it down. Even after I wet sand alot I still have little dots of low spots. The reason I got so much orange peel is I didnt have the psi high enough is what I am thinking. My question is can I spray more clear coat to cover up the small pin low spots and then wet sand again. My plan is to wet sand the clear coat til its smooth, then spray more clear. What I am wondering is do I buff after the initial wet sand to get the shine back or do I just go ahead and spray more clear. Or will the sanding marks come through the new clear if I dont buff them out. This is my first car to paint so dont grill me too hard. Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:25 PM
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You can sand the clear and apply more clear over the top. Do not buff it - knock it down with 1000-grit and re-shoot.

However, if you have 4 coats of clear, I doubt you really need to apply more. You should be able to sand smooth and still have plenty left. Try running 1200 grit on a dry DA pad and running the DA dry. This will knock it down pretty quick. Once smooth, stick sand it with 1500 wet and buff it out.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:39 PM
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I dont know about you lars, but the sound of running ANY DA dry on fresh clear sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.


just keep wetsanding it.. it takes time, but hey, its winter time
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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I do believe Lars dry sand method is for TALANTED folk, the rust of us back yard hacks(like me) should stick with wet paper.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:51 PM
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It sounds like you may also have solvent pop as you mentioned you
have low spots or dots. You can have both solvent pop and orange
peel.
Solvent pop is caused by spraying on more clear over a just sprayed
coat before the reducer has had time to evaporate. If this is the
case, water sand with 1000 paper (can even use 600 paper if have
a lot of orange peel and deep solvent pops and then go to 1000
grit).

After sanding, wipe with wax and grease remover followed by a tack
rag. Then spray on a light mist coat of clear to make the surface
tacky. Then spray on another wet coat of clear.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 09:01 PM
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mark 79, 80 do I need to buff at all? I am currently using 600 to knock it down cause my orange peel is kind of bad. I will wet sand with 1000 once I am done with the 600. Do I need to buff to get the scratches out or will the new clear cover that up and make it glossy again?
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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I agree with Lars that you may have plenty of clear on the car already. Why not sand a panel with 600 till almost smooth then follow up with 1000 and then 1500 and buff. If you are not satisfied you can resand the panel with 1000 and then reclear. Craig
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 10:01 PM
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From: shawnee ks
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Sounds like you got solvent pop. Like stated earlier. 2 med wet clear coats is all thats needed. If doing at home without air flow you need to wait alot longer between coats.The new clear will cover up 600 scratches.You might try doing a panel at a time, that way you can much better control what you are doing.Door,Door,Hood, Rear, Front Clip.Practise on a door first and see how that goes.If you have a spot you didnt get enuff base on you can reapply over the clear and sandwich it in between the clear coats, However dont remove the clear and then reapply base to base that has already been cleared ,much more difficult to do once base has been cleared.Sandwiching is how we do custom paint schemes.Make sure you have plenty of light, Painting without good light is next to impossible to get full and smooth coverage.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 10:45 PM
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From: Englewood FL
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Depending on how deep the solvent pop pits are, you may want to
spray another coat or two of clear coat. That is, you want to sand
the clear till it is smooth and the solvent pops are gone. If you feel
you have sanded thru most of the clear coat to get rid of the solvent
pops then apply more clear coat. Would rather see you have a bit
more clear coat on so when you do the final wet sanding and polishing
you don't burn thru the clear coat into the color. If you do burn thru,
it will be more work to correct as you may have to respray the entire
panel with color and then start all over with clear on top of the new
color coat.
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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I agree with Lars. put some 1200 on a finishing DA, and make sure the DA is flat, and cut the areas out. You'd be suprised..with 4 coats of clear, you should have enough cut down then get the buffer hot enough to swirl that clear around till its smooth. Just watch out for the edges. Of course, if you have no experience in this...don't try
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