stall torque converters
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From: marble falls texas
hi Robin
i was running a B&M holeshot converter with a 2400 RPM stall speed behind a 406 sb. I also ran a B&M th350 trans. I did it because of the quality and warranty from B&M on both parts. The reason for the stall speed to start with had to do with my cam , it 's rpm range was from 3000 to 7000 rpm. With out the stall speed it would have been a dog off the line. I 'am now going to a big block and will use a TCI th350 ultra street fighter trans. and a TCI converter. Because B&M will only warrant their street tans. to 450 hp. TCI will warrant theirs up to 650 hp. If you stay under 450 hp. it will be hard to beat B&M . Hope this helps you out.
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From: Youngstown Ohio
I have an Art Carr 10" Super Torque that stalls @ 2900 rpm, but will flash to 4000 rpm on launch. I chose this because of my combination of cam, gearing, vehicle weight, & engine torque curve. (450 hp small block) This was best suited for my "street-strip" intent.
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Robin7TFour
hello, who's running a stall-type converter. what speed and why did you choose that brand.
thank
Robin
thank
Robin
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From: Orlando Florida
great info , here's my reason for the questions. i too have a 'heavy' cam. i suspect it was intended for a manual tranny motor. to get it to idle in Drive, i have to set the neutral idle appx 1300+.
i think i need a stall converter to let it idle at a reasonable RPM . my thinking is going with a street converter that is about 400-500 rpm's over stock. does my reasoning sound correct?
i am not intending to drag race the car,but maybe put a B&M shift enhancer kit in my TH400 to make it more snappy on the street.
thank you again
Robin
i think i need a stall converter to let it idle at a reasonable RPM . my thinking is going with a street converter that is about 400-500 rpm's over stock. does my reasoning sound correct?
i am not intending to drag race the car,but maybe put a B&M shift enhancer kit in my TH400 to make it more snappy on the street.
thank you again
Robin
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by Robin7TFour
great info , here's my reason for the questions. i too have a 'heavy' cam. i suspect it was intended for a manual tranny motor. to get it to idle in Drive, i have to set the neutral idle appx 1300+.
i think i need a stall converter to let it idle at a reasonable RPM . my thinking is going with a street converter that is about 400-500 rpm's over stock. does my reasoning sound correct?
i am not intending to drag race the car,but maybe put a B&M shift enhancer kit in my TH400 to make it more snappy on the street.
thank you again
Robin
i think i need a stall converter to let it idle at a reasonable RPM . my thinking is going with a street converter that is about 400-500 rpm's over stock. does my reasoning sound correct?
i am not intending to drag race the car,but maybe put a B&M shift enhancer kit in my TH400 to make it more snappy on the street.
thank you again
Robin
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From: Orlando Florida
Stroker thank you. i had an extra cooler mounted in front of the condenser. i am making a bracket to mount it under the housing for my monza headlights. it should still get airflow from under the chin,but not impede the air to radiator as previous owner did
r
r
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From: Taylor Michigan
I have several BB solid lifter cam engines. My base idle is around 850 RPMS in gear and out of gear, foot on the brake with the T400 cars and the same for the 4 speeds. The automatic cars have stall speeds from 2800-3500. You should be able to change from neutral to any gear without any loss of RPMs if everything is working correctly. A 1300+ idle RPM is completely unacceptable that i`m sure your well award of. Switching gears from park or neutral must be a nightmare. Have someone help adjust the carb or check for a serious vacuum leak and it should be allright.
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Originally Posted by Ironcross
I have several BB solid lifter cam engines. My base idle is around 850 RPMS in gear and out of gear, foot on the brake with the T400 cars and the same for the 4 speeds. The automatic cars have stall speeds from 2800-3500. You should be able to change from neutral to any gear without any loss of RPMs if everything is working correctly. A 1300+ idle RPM is completely unacceptable that i`m sure your well award of. Switching gears from park or neutral must be a nightmare. Have someone help adjust the carb or check for a serious vacuum leak and it should be allright.
Also check your timing; it may need to be advanced...this will eliminate the high neutral to drive rpm difference.
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From: Taylor Michigan
A thought about advancing the timing as it should actually make it idle a little faster as it cleans up the timing. Be careful of going too far, makes it hard to start. Then just turn the idle speed screw back to an acceptible idle. A note on the carb, is that the secondarys may be slightly open and that will also cause a high idle. they may have to be turned back too.
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From: Orlando Florida
right now i am running 34deg @2500 rpm's. how much higher would you recommend? i don't think i have any serious vacuum issues,since it idles great in neutral. wouldn't the motor die out if there was a big leak?
so, what is the stall speed of a stock converter???
Robin
learning is fun!
so, what is the stall speed of a stock converter???
Robin
learning is fun!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Shore NJ
Originally Posted by Robin7TFour
right now i am running 34deg @2500 rpm's. how much higher would you recommend? i don't think i have any serious vacuum issues,since it idles great in neutral. wouldn't the motor die out if there was a big leak?
so, what is the stall speed of a stock converter???
Robin
learning is fun!
so, what is the stall speed of a stock converter???
Robin
learning is fun!
Last edited by 73jst4fun; Nov 27, 2004 at 09:24 PM.
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From: marble falls texas
Hi Robin
Robin most stock converters stall between 1200 and 1800 rpm. It will vary with engine set up. When you talk about stall most people refer to the RPM you can reach befor the brakes no longer hold the car.
If you hold the brakes and put the car in drive and start pressing the gas the point at which the car will move forward will tell you what RPM stall you have. If you have a big cam most likely it will bogg when you release the brake . Hope this helps you out a little. PS: If you have a big cam and start messing with tlming you basically detune it to run with the stock converter. (imo).
If you hold the brakes and put the car in drive and start pressing the gas the point at which the car will move forward will tell you what RPM stall you have. If you have a big cam most likely it will bogg when you release the brake . Hope this helps you out a little. PS: If you have a big cam and start messing with tlming you basically detune it to run with the stock converter. (imo).
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From: Orlando Florida
well now i am confused. a stall doesn't let the engine freewheel like it's in neutral? so will i still have the same idle issue?
also, if i move the timing up,to 36-38deg, will that smooth out the cam's lumpy idle? i know i have to lower the idle speed as i increase the timing
or do i just give up the healthy mid and high end for a more sedate cam?
moe, larry curly....moe,larry,curly......moe ,larry, curly......
also, if i move the timing up,to 36-38deg, will that smooth out the cam's lumpy idle? i know i have to lower the idle speed as i increase the timing
or do i just give up the healthy mid and high end for a more sedate cam?
moe, larry curly....moe,larry,curly......moe ,larry, curly......
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From: Taylor Michigan
Originally Posted by Robin7TFour
well now i am confused. a stall doesn't let the engine freewheel like it's in neutral? so will i still have the same idle issue?
also, if i move the timing up,to 36-38deg, will that smooth out the cam's lumpy idle? i know i have to lower the idle speed as i increase the timing
or do i just give up the healthy mid and high end for a more sedate cam?
moe, larry curly....moe,larry,curly......moe ,larry, curly......
also, if i move the timing up,to 36-38deg, will that smooth out the cam's lumpy idle? i know i have to lower the idle speed as i increase the timing
or do i just give up the healthy mid and high end for a more sedate cam?
moe, larry curly....moe,larry,curly......moe ,larry, curly......
Le Mans Master
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From: Not Correctly Restored Stingray Fla.
My first experience, I was told not go more than 3000 if it is mostly a street car (given all my specs). Well that was LOTA 
. Car bogged out of the hole when racing. I stepped up to a 3800 and that woke the car right up when launching at the track. As for the street NO PROBLEM in every aspect and difinitly LOTA FUN !!!!! 
. Car bogged out of the hole when racing. I stepped up to a 3800 and that woke the car right up when launching at the track. As for the street NO PROBLEM in every aspect and difinitly LOTA FUN !!!!!
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From: Taylor Michigan
Originally Posted by LOTAHP
My first experience, I was told not go more than 3000 if it is mostly a street car (given all my specs). Well that was LOTA . Car bogged out of the hole when racing. I stepped up to a 3800 and that woke the car right up when launching at the track. As for the street NO PROBLEM in every aspect and difinitly LOTA FUN !!!!!
. Car bogged out of the hole when racing. I stepped up to a 3800 and that woke the car right up when launching at the track. As for the street NO PROBLEM in every aspect and difinitly LOTA FUN !!!!! 
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From: marble falls texas
Hi Robin
Robin this may help a little. I have a 406/475 hp in my car with a th350. I have a comp cam with an rpm range from 3000 to 7000 rpm. It idles at 800 rpm and very choppy idle ( 106 lobe center) . When I had a stock converter in it the car would load at idle and then bogg real bad when you tried to leave at a stop light. To clear the engine out I either had to shift to neutral and pop the gas or do like you and raise the idle up to where I could bearly hold it still at the red light. I then put in a B&M hole shot converter with a 2400 rpm stall. That let me leave the light and bring the rpms up to where the cam would start to work. Ironcross is right if you have the stock converter it will pull your rpms down and cause the engine to load up . The stall converter also will lets you tap the gas ( while stopped with your foot on the break) to clean the engine up and not frog jump the car at a red light, or it lets you adjust the idle higher with out almost locking the breaks up to hold the car still . plus lets you shift from gear to neutral with the car and not load the drive train up. Hope This helps. 