Getting HP
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
From: largo florida
You want to keep the car stock yet make huge hp numbers?? 
You can always remove the nitrous and there will be no traces that it was ever there. It is a pretty cheap alternative if you want high hp.
You can always remove the nitrous and there will be no traces that it was ever there. It is a pretty cheap alternative if you want high hp.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
well i wanted the numbers to match, and my disagreement for nitrous was just on my truck. I dont know, if the numbers on the block matched, would it still be considered a number matching car if the engine is beefed up as long as it retained the block?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 2
From: Not Correctly Restored Stingray Fla.
Hey "Twilight Kid", You are all over the place 
Does your DAD know what you're doing??? 
First your talking HP #'s of what you want. Then changing and not changing the block, then working chit heads and not, and THEN #'s matching 
..
First of all....How much money does DAD have to spend here ???
Cause....Dollars = Horsepower
I have 525hp (at flywheel). By calculation that is around 400rwhp. "I think" the only true dyno is at the flywheel. I've seen some rediculous numbers from those rearwheel dynos. My Vette is TOTALLY streetable and very RELIABLE. No it is not a daily driver.
Does your DAD know what you're doing??? First your talking HP #'s of what you want. Then changing and not changing the block, then working chit heads and not, and THEN #'s matching ..First of all....How much money does DAD have to spend here ???
Cause....Dollars = Horsepower
I have 525hp (at flywheel). By calculation that is around 400rwhp. "I think" the only true dyno is at the flywheel. I've seen some rediculous numbers from those rearwheel dynos. My Vette is TOTALLY streetable and very RELIABLE. No it is not a daily driver.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
HAHA... Yes my dad knows what im doing, and i had never planned on changin the block, not on the corvette at least. I want the keep the numbers on the block matching with the numbers on the car, but other than that i dont care. Thank you all for posting your ideas and such, i think i have a firm idea on what exactly i will be doing, the HP number was something my dad pulled out his rectum one night, 1. i dont think he really cares,2. im not sure he would be able to tell 300 from 375 without something to base it on.
~Peace!~
~Peace!~
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by Twilight Child
AHHAH UNFAIR, it would cost me 370 $ + shipping just for cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, and valve springs, grrr on my unique engine.
You want 375hp at the wheels and you don't want to spend money to do it. Have you read any previous posts? It takes money to build that type of horsepower. I think you either have got to spend $$$$ or be satisfied with 300hp at the crank which will get you in the neighborhood 225hp at the wheels. There may be cheaper solutions to getting some horsepower but the amount you dreamed about is not going to be realized by a set of heads, no matter how good they are. Heads will get you 40hp but you got to break your piggy bank open and count the change and see what else you can afford. You may want to start reading some books and get an realistic idea of how much horsepower that piggy bank can pay for.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by mandm1200
You got to be kidding!
You want 375hp at the wheels and you don't want to spend money to do it. Have you read any previous posts? It takes money to build that type of horsepower. I think you either have got to spend $$$$ or be satisfied with 300hp at the crank which will get you in the neighborhood 225hp at the wheels. There may be cheaper solutions to getting some horsepower but the amount you dreamed about is not going to be realized by a set of heads, no matter how good they are. Heads will get you 40hp but you got to break your piggy bank open and count the change and see what else you can afford. You may want to start reading some books and get an realistic idea of how much horsepower that piggy bank can pay for.
You want 375hp at the wheels and you don't want to spend money to do it. Have you read any previous posts? It takes money to build that type of horsepower. I think you either have got to spend $$$$ or be satisfied with 300hp at the crank which will get you in the neighborhood 225hp at the wheels. There may be cheaper solutions to getting some horsepower but the amount you dreamed about is not going to be realized by a set of heads, no matter how good they are. Heads will get you 40hp but you got to break your piggy bank open and count the change and see what else you can afford. You may want to start reading some books and get an realistic idea of how much horsepower that piggy bank can pay for.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Texas
of course, if money is no object Edelbrock sells a 350 crate engine complete with fuel injection that puts out 440 HP and 425 lb torque (9.5 to 1 compression) for just over $11,000.00. that'll do it for 'ya.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
From: largo florida
Originally Posted by jcswm
I've still got my numbers Matching engine
It's just not in the car!!!!
Heck.... I've still got the origional Clutch
It's just not in the car!!!!
Heck.... I've still got the origional Clutch
You dont ahve to get rid of the block or anything. Store it in the garage or something, that is what I am doing. The # matching engine is sitting in the garage and the ls1 is taking its place. You can always put the original motor back in if you plan on selling in the future.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
A street port job on the heads, a camshaft with 220 something duration and an eBay turbocharger is the cheapest way to do what you want to do. You'll have to plumb the turbo up yourself but you'll be traiding labor for money.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
lol well that was short and to the point, yes its not fuel injected, but still LOL. Hmm, i dont know about a turbo, but that would be kinda cool, really deep rumble, pss pss lol. Watever haha its been a great night, i had to read 5 chapters of frankenstien in like 2 hours, its hard when people keep IM ing you gzzzz watever. NIGHT ALL!
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 1
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
these guys tend to over engineer a bit.
1.) new heads, you can blow 1K on new aluminum heads and get better performance than paying the porting rates for ported stock heads. Hell ported L98 heads are like 2300. and they are only 800 a pair new/stock.
2.) Cast cranks are OK, but I would get it balanced. Good connecting rods are more important than a forged crank, and something along the line of hypereutitic
3.) a solid cam kit from Compcams or wherever will do just fine to get you too your power goal. Something similiar to the old LT-1 solid cam.
4.) Scrap your AC
5.) a good windage tray
6.) good headers.
7.) Single plane intake.
1.) new heads, you can blow 1K on new aluminum heads and get better performance than paying the porting rates for ported stock heads. Hell ported L98 heads are like 2300. and they are only 800 a pair new/stock.
2.) Cast cranks are OK, but I would get it balanced. Good connecting rods are more important than a forged crank, and something along the line of hypereutitic
3.) a solid cam kit from Compcams or wherever will do just fine to get you too your power goal. Something similiar to the old LT-1 solid cam.
4.) Scrap your AC
5.) a good windage tray
6.) good headers.
7.) Single plane intake.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Nov 29, 2004 at 01:55 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
What I can tell you is my combo:
AFR 195s, 8:1 compression, Crane 272 cam (216/216 duration, 110 lsa, .454/.454 lift), edelbrock #3701 intake and an L-82 quadrajet. 1 5/8" headers, true dual 2.5" exhaust with h-pipe and dual cats feeding into dynomax ultra flow mufflers.
This put out 241 hp to the wheels, with another 10 or so missing in carb tuning. If I bumped the compression up two points I could probably get this combination closer to, if not above, 300 rwhp. At that point, I'll be making roughly 375 hp at the crank, with all accessories attached. This car is faster and stronger than a 70-72 LT-1 and is an absolute blast to drive.
Does your dad even know what 375 rwhp feels like?
I believe 300 is very easy to achieve, but you need to put money in good heads. Look at how mild my cam is - it barely lifts the valves off the seats. There are many more cams out there that will pump the horsepower up quite a bit, at an expense of torque, of course.
-Steve
AFR 195s, 8:1 compression, Crane 272 cam (216/216 duration, 110 lsa, .454/.454 lift), edelbrock #3701 intake and an L-82 quadrajet. 1 5/8" headers, true dual 2.5" exhaust with h-pipe and dual cats feeding into dynomax ultra flow mufflers.
This put out 241 hp to the wheels, with another 10 or so missing in carb tuning. If I bumped the compression up two points I could probably get this combination closer to, if not above, 300 rwhp. At that point, I'll be making roughly 375 hp at the crank, with all accessories attached. This car is faster and stronger than a 70-72 LT-1 and is an absolute blast to drive.
Does your dad even know what 375 rwhp feels like?
I believe 300 is very easy to achieve, but you need to put money in good heads. Look at how mild my cam is - it barely lifts the valves off the seats. There are many more cams out there that will pump the horsepower up quite a bit, at an expense of torque, of course.
-Steve
