Walk-Thru. Leaf Spring Bolt Replacement
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,763
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From: Fayetteville NC
Walk-Thru. Leaf Spring Bolt Replacement
Thought some people might like to print this out once it's written down. I need to replace the stock bolts in my leaf spring with longer ones to lower the ride height in the rear of a '75 coupe. I have the replacement 9-leaf steel spring. Would someone be so kind as to respond with the correct procedure. Does the entire rear end need to be off the ground? Do I jack one end of the spring at a time to replace the bolt? Etc. I promise I won't ask this again . . . but somebody else probably will. Thanks much. 
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
If you don't have a sway bar, I don't see why you couldn't do it one side at a time.
As long as the sway bar's off, here's what you do:
1. Use a jack to keep the leaf spring in place. If it's fiberglass, make sure the jack only touches the metal end of the spring.
2. Use vise grips to hold the shaft of the bolt or a 13/16" wrench on the cap to keep it from turning, and remove the lock-nut.
3. Slowly lower the jack.
4. Replace the bolt.
If you have a sway bar, both ends need to be off the ground to facilitate removal of the bar. The rear bar linkage will interfere with removing the bolt.
-Steve
As long as the sway bar's off, here's what you do:
1. Use a jack to keep the leaf spring in place. If it's fiberglass, make sure the jack only touches the metal end of the spring.
2. Use vise grips to hold the shaft of the bolt or a 13/16" wrench on the cap to keep it from turning, and remove the lock-nut.
3. Slowly lower the jack.
4. Replace the bolt.
If you have a sway bar, both ends need to be off the ground to facilitate removal of the bar. The rear bar linkage will interfere with removing the bolt.
-Steve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
I would agree with Steve - but swap #3 and #4.
If replacing with a larger bolt .... no need to lower it before
raising it to put new bolt in place.
When jacking the steel spring, place a C-clamp or big Vise-grips
on the spring to keep the jack saddle from sliding up the spring.
If replacing with a larger bolt .... no need to lower it before
raising it to put new bolt in place.
When jacking the steel spring, place a C-clamp or big Vise-grips
on the spring to keep the jack saddle from sliding up the spring.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,493
Likes: 6
From: Bloomington MN
Cruise-In II Veteran
I agree with above except in my case I had to sit on the *** end of the car and push myself down on it by using the garage door header for the spring to flex enough so my old man could get the nut started on the spring bolt. After a certain point, raising the jack under the spring just lifted the back end of the car off the ground. If you have a lift, or other suitable anchor point, you could just chain the frame to it while you jack up the spring to keep the car from lifting up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I'm confused... I did not have any problem at all.
I did one side at a time, removed the sway bar link and placed a car jack under the end of the spring to unload the bolt. Then I held the bolt with vice grip pliers (regular pliers do it too) and loosened the nut....
Took about 15 minutes per side, the hardest part was the sway bar links...
You'll need a c-clamp next to the car jack to keep it from slipping...
Oh yes, if you jack both sides at the same time then you'll end up lifting the car.
I did one side at a time, removed the sway bar link and placed a car jack under the end of the spring to unload the bolt. Then I held the bolt with vice grip pliers (regular pliers do it too) and loosened the nut....
Took about 15 minutes per side, the hardest part was the sway bar links...
You'll need a c-clamp next to the car jack to keep it from slipping...
Oh yes, if you jack both sides at the same time then you'll end up lifting the car.
