Progress on the roll cage
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Progress on the roll cage
I didn't work alot on the cage this weekend due to getting ready for christmas and winter. Cutting firewook and getting christmas decorations down from storage, putting up lights and decorating 2 in house trees.
Anyway things went well the little time I did spend
This is a side shot of the upper hoop. With the Tee roof on it disappears.
This is a shot of the down tube, it hugs the pillar, I really don't want to infringe on my wifes visibility through the windshield nor leg room
This is what the bar looks like with the Tee roof on
This is the stud in the floor with the tube going through the firewall. This tube is not removeable. The floor is fiberglassed to the stud as is the firewall to the through pipe.
The big thing is the down tubes come out easily and yet are held in really well. The tubes don't hang down blocking view, leg room and make you feel like there is a cage around you.
Anyway things went well the little time I did spend
This is a side shot of the upper hoop. With the Tee roof on it disappears.
This is a shot of the down tube, it hugs the pillar, I really don't want to infringe on my wifes visibility through the windshield nor leg room
This is what the bar looks like with the Tee roof on
This is the stud in the floor with the tube going through the firewall. This tube is not removeable. The floor is fiberglassed to the stud as is the firewall to the through pipe.
The big thing is the down tubes come out easily and yet are held in really well. The tubes don't hang down blocking view, leg room and make you feel like there is a cage around you.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by comp
MAN 
you using swing-out door bar's ???
you using swing-out door bar's ???There will be 2 door bars per side, one low and fixed but removable if needed and one that swings out when exiting the car.
I have a new idea and will run it past the guys in another post.
Thanks John. I enjoy this project and things are going along nicely.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
There will be 2 door bars per side, one low and fixed but removable if needed and one that swings out when exiting the car.
I have a new idea and will run it past the guys in another post.
Thanks John. I enjoy this project and things are going along nicely.
I have a new idea and will run it past the guys in another post.
Thanks John. I enjoy this project and things are going along nicely.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by SmokedTires
Wow there's still a radio in your car 
: Can't wait to see it when it's done 
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Very nice! There's even room between the T-tops and the rollbars to stuff some sandwiches... 
Do you anticipate any problems with the area where you glassed in the bar?? It looks like any body movement relative to the frame, however slight, might crack the glass in that area since it currently has no clearance.
Do you anticipate any problems with the area where you glassed in the bar?? It looks like any body movement relative to the frame, however slight, might crack the glass in that area since it currently has no clearance.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Z-man
Very nice! There's even room between the T-tops and the rollbars to stuff some sandwiches...
Do you anticipate any problems with the area where you glassed in the bar?? It looks like any body movement relative to the frame, however slight, might crack the glass in that area since it currently has no clearance.
Do you anticipate any problems with the area where you glassed in the bar?? It looks like any body movement relative to the frame, however slight, might crack the glass in that area since it currently has no clearance.
4 other standoffs are siliconed in with about 1/8th clearnace around them.
I will give this a try in the front and see if it cracks. If it does I will use the die grinder and clearance everything down the road.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: harrisonburg (JMU) va
This is a shot of the down tube, it hugs the pillar, I really don't want to infringe on my wifes visibility through the windshield
This tube is not removeable.
looks great tho norval, i envy your fabrication skills...maybe i'll get there one day, but now i guess i'll just stick to playin around with the MIG welder, welding random things together
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Actually there is a very good stereo in the car with 7 speakers. The stereo is located in the back and run by remote.
Looking good Norval. You're gonna black (double) powder coat it, right ?
ps - drove about halfway to your house last weekend ... picked up 110
Christmas trees in VT - about 40 miles from the border.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by NHvette
Of course, the stock radio has been drilled for weight.
Looking good Norval. You're gonna black (double) powder coat it, right ?
ps - drove about halfway to your house last weekend ... picked up 110
Christmas trees in VT - about 40 miles from the border.
Looking good Norval. You're gonna black (double) powder coat it, right ?
ps - drove about halfway to your house last weekend ... picked up 110
Christmas trees in VT - about 40 miles from the border.
My son will put a super heavy coating of black gloss powder coating. The fixed floor bar will be given a few hand coats as will the standoffs.
One of the problems with the drivers down tube is the light switch. It is always in the road. It forces the down tube to run further away from the pillar.
I put my light switch through the tube. I carefully cut off the big **** on the switch leaving the smaller shank which is about 1/2 diameter with a coarse coating on it for grip. I then milled a slot in the down tube so when the light switch is all the way out it goes into the down tube. It is still easy enough to pull on and it doesn't require me to change the tight routing of the down tube.
Did I mention that I spend the evening making the drivers down tube??
Next time make it all the way
