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Steering Play (unequal)

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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
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Default Steering Play (unequal)

Need some adivse...

Just finished rebuilding my frontend on my 1980 (bushings, springs, shocks). New powersteering valve about two months ago.

Had it aligned and rides much better. However, there is an evident difference in the play between moving the steering wheel left vs right????

Moving left has immediate effect. Moving right has approx 1.5" of play.

How can this be?

Thanks in advance for the advise.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 12:53 PM
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Good luck I've got the same problem
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Most alignment shops will set up the car to pull slightly to the right. That's so that if you fall asleep at the wheel you run into the ditch instead of oncoming traffic.

So to go striahgt you are applying slight left steering and you have no play. Going right you feel the play.

I'd start by checking the steering box and rag joint.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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Did you balance your steering? If there is any slop in the steering and the balance is slightly off, it will push to where it meets resistance and cause the symptom you are describing.

It's easy to do. Just put the front end up on stands, (make sure you have the parking brake on and the rear wheels blocked.)
Remove the tire.

Center the steering.

Remove the small cap on the end of the steering ram. You will see a little nut inside of the ram.

Start the car, making sure that you don't put your arm through the steering wheel when you turn the key.

Notice if the wheels turn at all when the motor is running. They should not move at all. If they do, it's a sure sign that the system is not balanced.

Turn the nut slowly in one direction or another. Stop as soon as the wheels start to turn.

Slowly turn the nut in the other direction. Pay attention to how much you turn it until the wheels begin to move in the other direction.

Turn the nut back half the distance you just turned it.

Voila!! perfectly balanced steering.

I've been told that the factory biased the steering slightly to the left to offset the radius most roads have to facilitate drainage.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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The valve was not deliberately biased when it was manufactured and balanced at Saginaw Steering Gear.

Also, the Chevrolet shop manual says to disconnect the assist cylinder (ram) from the frame when you conduct the valve balance procedure. There are probably two reasons for this.
1). I think that from a safety standpoint, it is probable best that only the assist cylinder rod is extending out and in rather than both front wheels moving lock to lock;
2). It is probably best that you only have the slight friction of the assist cylinder rod rather than the added friction of the ball joints, steering gear, steering column, and linkage pivots interacting while you do the valve balance procedure.

Jim Shea
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
Also, the Chevrolet shop manual says to disconnect the assist cylinder (ram) from the frame when you conduct the valve balance procedure. There are probably two reasons for this.
1). I think that from a safety standpoint, it is probable best that only the assist cylinder rod is extending out and in rather than both front wheels moving lock to lock;
2). It is probably best that you only have the slight friction of the assist cylinder rod rather than the added friction of the ball joints, steering gear, steering column, and linkage pivots interacting while you do the valve balance procedure.

Jim Shea
Jim is correct; at least for safety, it's best to disconnect the ram. I've seen them get really crazy, they have enough power to possibly do some damage to the mounting point on the frame.

Minimizing friction makes good sense too. Next time I have to do it, I"ll disconnect. It only takes a minute longer.

As for the bias, a dealer told me that a long time ago, and for some reason I remember it. I thought it was kind of a dumb thing to do, although there was a certain logic in it!

Last edited by cchristo; Jan 1, 2005 at 08:41 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 10:39 PM
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All the St. Louis and Bowling Green assembly plants wanted to do was install the steering parts according to the AIM instructions; evacuate and fill the system with oil; set the front end toe; and OUT THE DOOR to the dealer. There is no mention in the AIM about biasing the valve. In fact, unless the valve was very badly out of balance I would expect that the car was just shipped. The dealer was expected to adjust (using the shop manual instructions) or replace it if there was a complaint.

If the valve was very bad, a complaint was issued to the manufacturer, Saginaw Steering Gear. The assembly plant would send the car to a repair bay where the valve was pulled and returned to Saginaw and another valve installed in its place. (They hated to send cars to the repair area.)
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