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I bought a new coil because my old one was seeping oil. I never liked the location of the old coil (fenderwell), but I put the new one in the same spot. I drove the car for a few weeks. All was well, no issues.
Today I decided to move it to the stock position. Before I started, I wrote down which colors went on which terminals. Green to neg, red to pos, and brown to frame.
I moved the coil to the new bracket, never dropped it...I shortened the wires and routed everything nicely.
It won't start. It cranks fine, and fuel is being delivered.
Is there any rule about the length of the wire from the coil to the distributor. It's real short now. I even switched it out with an oil coil wire that had been good years ago, and still it cranks strong with no fire. This car has always started right up.
Do a ground check and with a multimeter verify your getting 12V from the wire coming from the starter and then it should not deliver any voltage once the car starts and your no longer cranking the starter. The other wire coming from the fuse block should have 12V constantly in ACC key position.
The second wire going to the positive terminal of the coil is 12V with the ignition in the on position and dead otherwise. When I touch it to the coil terminal, it kills the reading?? I was beginning to think the wire was old and the position of being on the terminal caused a short, but I don't think so. Shouldn't it still read 12V whether it's touching the coil terminal or not?
The only other thing that is different is the coil is now mounted to the metal intake, whereas before it was on the plastic fenderwell.
The all metal mount was bothering me, so I dismounted the coil and layed it on a rubber mat. The car started. Why? Is the stock mounted coil isolated with rubber? Is the chrome housing of the Pertronix coil to blame?
It sounds very much like you have a bad coil. It's apparently shorted inside to the casing. I would return it and get a new one. Pertronix generally makes a good coil and should easily stand by it.