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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 09:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by AlwaysWave
Don't sell off the C3 when you finally get the C6.
NEVER! I plan on being one of those 90 year old women with the best garage envy around! I already have a 98 Camaro with just cosmetic mods, and now this vette. I plan on keeping all my babies! Here are my two babies, so far!


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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 10:05 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Motor City Vette
Me too...I'm thinking of ordering a Victory Red vert to match my C3. But, it probably won't be until late this year or early next year.

I am wanting the Mag red./tan/tan power top. I will be ordering mine as soon as they get the dang power top right. Hubby is having a real problem with that much money for a car and they can't get the top to function properly. He is not going to order it until they are sure its right and given time for any recalls the may do. We want it right from the start. So, we are giving them time. I had really hoped to have it by now. I have been waiting since 2 summers ago when I saw it on the chevy site. I was going to buy a C5, but when I researched it, I found the C6 was coming out. They can build this monster of a car, HP out the ****, and NOT get a power top to function correctly??? That just is beyond me!
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 11:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by missprissybrat
Thanks.

I wonder how he tightened it up. When I first saw the car a few months ago, it was very easy to open the doors. But, I will use OIL and not WD-40 tomorrow! Its a suthern thing I guess. If WD-40 don't make it move and duct tape don't make it stay, throw it away!

Don't just oil the doors.

You need to adjust the mechanisms. In order to do that you need to remove the door latch handle, pull handle and window winder. Next remove the door panel. Once you can get inside the door you need to look through the access hole at the top left of the door. There is a little bent rod that goes from the door handle to the door latch mechanism. Remove the clip that holds the end on then wind the nut on the end of the rod to make it LONGER. This will allow the outside door handle to get more leverage. Also check all the other rods for slop and lengthen as necessary. Be careful putting the door handle back on the latch on the inside as it is diecast and breaks very easy. Replacements are $70 if thats an incentive.

This is not a difficult job but does take several hours and it would be advisable to have a AIM and a Service Manual for you year handy. If you don't have them then get them soon as they will be invaluable with sorting out your car.

Good Luck and Welcome to the Forum.

Pete
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Old Jan 23, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #44  
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Thanks very much for the info guys! You are the best! It seems I have lots of things to look for tomorrow on the car.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 12:21 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by missprissybrat
I just got a C3 this week....
...1. The heater doesn't work. It didn't even blow so we replaced the heater motor and the wheel. Now it blows, but it's just cold air. Any ideas on what to try next?
Check the heater hoses to see if there is an aftermarket cut-off valve installed. If one hose is hot but you still have no heater, a cut off valve or clogged heater core is to blame. Your car has I believe a vaccuum operated cut-off valve from the factory (but still may have another cut-off valve added too). If neither hose is hot try pulling the factory cut-off valve and using a piece of PVC & hose clamps to see if the heater will then work. If it does work check the vaccuum to the cut off valve... someone on here will be able to tell you exactly what vaccuum pressure you should have in that line. It may be easier for you to just go buy a new cut-off valve... I don't think they're very expensive. Oh yeah, and does your temperature gauge work and is it possible your thermostat is stuck open?

Our vettes are well known for having heat problems in summer. In stock 25+ year old form your feet will roast in summer. People put hardware store cut-off valves in their heater hose lines to help stop the heat problem even though there are often several causes other than the heater itself.

2. WTH is the fuse box??? I have been everywhere in this thing on my hands and knees and I still can't find it? I just discovered the battery behind the driver set! Thats---- so----- cool!
I am 6'0" and 250lb. There are 2 ways I have been able to get to the fuse box. I can open the driver's door and sort of squeeze into the footwell to get to the fuse box, which is deep, high, & left of the steering column under the dash. OR I take the tops off, put my back on the seat bottom and stick my legs up in the air (picture a 6 foot 250lb fatazz doign that ) and slide up into the footwell upside down. The fuse box is under there... good luck.

You mentioned the battery. Since you just got the car, you might want to pull the battery and check to make sure the compartment is still sturdy. Sometimes years of leaky batteries will rot out that compartment. Just a good idea to check so it doesn't fall out goign down the road.

3. The door handle pad thingy's. They are both VERY hard to push down to open the door. I have WD-40'ed them both and it helped, but I am going to need serious nail care (daily!) if this keeps up. The lady I bought it from said her husband just tightened them both since they were very lose. So, how do I loosen them back up some? It takes both my hands and all my weight (and thats BUNCHES!!) to get them opened.
Pull the door panels, raise the window, and find some kind of lube to go nuts with in there. I use a kind we get at work that is an aerosol spray red grease. It thickens after you spray it and stays on whatever you sprayed it on. Much better than WD-40. It won't hurt your latch assembly to really squirt it down. I'm willing to bet your outer handles are fine but your rod & latch assemblies are a bit corroded & dry. I took my latch assemblies out and ran them through a power washer (that we use mineral spirits with instead of safety-kleen fluid).

4. I need a good paint shop close by if anyone happens to know of one. I want to get her repainted and I am not sure who is good. I was thinking of getting ghost flames coming out of the side vents. Anyone have any pics of a C3 like this or with a special paint job?
I live close to Memphis TN, btw. I would be willing to travel with the car a hundred miles or so to get a really good paint job and price.
A good paint shop close by is not always the same thing as a good paint shop. Don't be afraid to drive several miles if you get recommendations for a very good paint shop that knows vettes. IMHO you get what you pay for. A $2,000 paint job is not a $5,000 paint job is not a $10,000 paint job. A local shop quoted me $2,000 and I was not interested in the least. I want mine to look good, not average.

Any help on any of this would be great. Thanks in advance!!
You've come to the right section. Lots of very very knowledgable people in the C3 forum. My car would not be running today without this forum.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 01:02 AM
  #46  
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Door latches are a pita. gotta take off the panels and get used to whacking the he77 out of your hands.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 01:11 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by feb18blacksunday
Door latches are a pita. gotta take off the panels and get used to whacking the he77 out of your hands.
Thats the truth! I tore the crap out of my hands working on all the door latch innerworkings.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 01:24 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by feb18blacksunday
Door latches are a pita. gotta take off the panels and get used to whacking the he77 out of your hands.
I was hoping it was just a screw I could get to easy! This sounds like something much more complicated. Oh, well. Its gotta be done. I cant keep it like it is. My fingers and nails are hurting already!

Thanks for the info!
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 01:26 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Stoge
Check the heater hoses to see if there is an aftermarket cut-off valve installed. If one hose is hot but you still have no heater, a cut off valve or clogged heater core is to blame. Your car has I believe a vaccuum operated cut-off valve from the factory (but still may have another cut-off valve added too). If neither hose is hot try pulling the factory cut-off valve and using a piece of PVC & hose clamps to see if the heater will then work. If it does work check the vaccuum to the cut off valve... someone on here will be able to tell you exactly what vaccuum pressure you should have in that line. It may be easier for you to just go buy a new cut-off valve... I don't think they're very expensive. Oh yeah, and does your temperature gauge work and is it possible your thermostat is stuck open?

Our vettes are well known for having heat problems in summer. In stock 25+ year old form your feet will roast in summer. People put hardware store cut-off valves in their heater hose lines to help stop the heat problem even though there are often several causes other than the heater itself.



I am 6'0" and 250lb. There are 2 ways I have been able to get to the fuse box. I can open the driver's door and sort of squeeze into the footwell to get to the fuse box, which is deep, high, & left of the steering column under the dash. OR I take the tops off, put my back on the seat bottom and stick my legs up in the air (picture a 6 foot 250lb fatazz doign that ) and slide up into the footwell upside down. The fuse box is under there... good luck.

You mentioned the battery. Since you just got the car, you might want to pull the battery and check to make sure the compartment is still sturdy. Sometimes years of leaky batteries will rot out that compartment. Just a good idea to check so it doesn't fall out goign down the road.



Pull the door panels, raise the window, and find some kind of lube to go nuts with in there. I use a kind we get at work that is an aerosol spray red grease. It thickens after you spray it and stays on whatever you sprayed it on. Much better than WD-40. It won't hurt your latch assembly to really squirt it down. I'm willing to bet your outer handles are fine but your rod & latch assemblies are a bit corroded & dry. I took my latch assemblies out and ran them through a power washer (that we use mineral spirits with instead of safety-kleen fluid).



A good paint shop close by is not always the same thing as a good paint shop. Don't be afraid to drive several miles if you get recommendations for a very good paint shop that knows vettes. IMHO you get what you pay for. A $2,000 paint job is not a $5,000 paint job is not a $10,000 paint job. A local shop quoted me $2,000 and I was not interested in the least. I want mine to look good, not average.



You've come to the right section. Lots of very very knowledgable people in the C3 forum. My car would not be running today without this forum.

You know your stuff man! Thanks bunches for the time and advice!
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 05:53 AM
  #50  
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Welcome to the world of C3s .Everything else seems to have been addressed but a paint shop in our area (I'm in Memphis unfortunatly) .My 78 vette is getting painted 2002 electron blue with ghost flames in the next month.Its at a local shop right now that does excellent work,and you can come up and see it finished or wait till I post pics.There is a Corvette painting shop you do NOT want to use around here,12stepvette had a C3 painted there and wound up having to sue them they messed it so bad.He won in court by the way. Feel free to PM or email me if you need more info
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 08:54 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Motor City Vette
Cool car. I'm used to seeing you in OffTopic...Welcome to C3!


Welcome!

Now you get to spend twice as much time on the forum each day... C3 and CfOT!
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 09:03 AM
  #52  
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I know the Off Topic crew did'nt recommend a C3 What happened???
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:14 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by missprissybrat
NEVER! I plan on being one of those 90 year old women with the best garage envy around! I already have a 98 Camaro with just cosmetic mods, and now this vette. I plan on keeping all my babies! Here are my two babies, so far!


I've trained my wife to think like that. You two would get along well.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:39 AM
  #54  
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Hey,
I see you are in MS. We live in OB. Perhaps we can get together and cruise sometime. The vette actually belongs to my wife, but she does let me do all the work and so far I have done plenty. Still alot to go though. Drop us a line either here or PM. Fixn' to leave for Atlanta this afternoon for work but will be back Friday

Last edited by brooksman9; Jan 24, 2005 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:43 AM
  #55  
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Congrats and welcome
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:53 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Paul Borowski
I know the Off Topic crew did'nt recommend a C3 What happened???
Actually the bar folks recommended a C3 because the initial purchase prices are very reasonable. My wife & I bought our 74 coupe for $4000.
Of course we haven't mentioned that its been in restoration for 14+ months or that we've spent triple the purchase price on parts.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 11:52 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by 78 Vette
Welcome and congrats on the new vette. One thing I can tell you is the fuse box is on the drivers side under the dash. It is up kind of high and a pain to get to.

Real pain to get to for big people

Welcome
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 12:13 PM
  #58  
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Default Heater core leaks

Originally Posted by Jughead
Maybe your hoses aren't connected to the heater core. Mine weren't and still aren't.

Welcome.
Totally agree- the heater core leaks and someone bypassed it with the hoses.

Ken Lally
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 12:22 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by barkingowl
Actually the bar folks recommended a C3 because the initial purchase prices are very reasonable. My wife & I bought our 74 coupe for $4000.
Of course we haven't mentioned that its been in restoration for 14+ months or that we've spent triple the purchase price on parts.
Plus the body lines are just amazing on this car!
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 01:37 PM
  #60  
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Default Welcome!

On the door releases, it's not that tough to get the inside door panels off, and you can clean and lube all the door glass parts while you are in there. The original white grease gets all hard and crusty, and you'll be amazed at how well the glass works when it goes back together.

Fuses are waaay up there (what were they thinking?).

A new C-6 too? Dang, your livin' right! Enjoy the ride...

Hans
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