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I don't get a PKE light period, at no time does the lamp light up. The security does flash.
I'm going to replace the fuse tonight. I pulled it and it looked good but I'll put a new one in. My fob is new but I don't think the fob has anything to do with the lamp not lighting up. As I said I thought it may have been the bulb but I pulled the control center and the bulb looked good, to be sure I swapped it out.
I don't get a PKE light period, at no time does the lamp light up. The security does flash.
I'm going to replace the fuse tonight. I pulled it and it looked good but I'll put a new one in. My fob is new but I don't think the fob has anything to do with the lamp not lighting up. As I said I thought it may have been the bulb but I pulled the control center and the bulb looked good, to be sure I swapped it out.
Not even for an instant as you turn the key to ON?
here is the best and easiest way to fix a pke
1. remove pke fob from key ring
2. insert door key into door and unlock car
3. put ignition key into car, start car
4. get out of car and walk 5ft towards garbage can
5. throw pke into garbage can
6. drive away
here is the best and easiest way to fix a pke
1. remove pke fob from key ring
2. insert door key into door and unlock car
3. put ignition key into car, start car
4. get out of car and walk 5ft towards garbage can
5. throw pke into garbage can
6. drive away
Not even for an instant as you turn the key to ON?
Nope nothing. I just got back in from messing with it, no luck. New fuse, new fob, new bulb and nothing.
Stupid question here for those who have had success with this. How long do you need to hold the Fuel Info before the light comes on. I give up after a minute or two. I'm assuming it doesn't take longer than that. I based this on how long it takes to reset the change oil soon light, that was almost instant.
It only takes a few seconds of holding the button it should start flashing almost immediately.
I'll ask questions from the diagnostics...
A) Can the passenger door and/or hatch be opened by depressing transmitter buttons?
If no, move the transmitter out of range, insert a valid key in ignition, roll the windows down, lock and close the doors. Do the doors unlock upon being closed? (ref B)
If yes from A), PKE system in non-passive mode. Check system operation. (you'll like this, explain to customer how system operates) In other words it is turned off and needs to be placed in passive mode. (door open, hold passenger door button down on transmitter until the locks cycle.)
If no to ref B, check PKE fuse and replace.
If yes to ref B, then we go see my previous post about how to pull DTC codes for the system.
Note that when your pulling DTCs your probably going to get multiple DTCs. The reason, when the transmitter is not being shaken the receiver is asleep and thus a 13, shake the transmitter and it should change to a 14 or 15.
Run these steps and let me know what the results are. We need to know your year model though determines the type of diagnostics.
It's a 1996. I don't want to sound like an idiot but what is a DTC code. I'm a newby to cars with computers. The last car I worked on was 1969 Z-28 and that was 18 years ago so my mechanical scope is narrow at best.
I haven't tried using the transmitter to open the doors or hatch. If it's new and has never been programmed for my car why would it open anything?
I am interested in learning some new things and I appreciate the help so far.
That's going to make it a little more difficult since I don't have access to the ODBII system. Perhaps someone who is familiar can enlighten us on pulling codes.
DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code
It's more intimidating than it is.
Its just part of the test. You would follow the No track.
The test of having the key in the ignition, rolling the windows down (in case it fails) closing the doors with them locked and the fob out of range should automatically open the doors. Its the onboard system doing that and it test for its operational status.
Glad to help but you might consider spending the money to order a set of GM Service manuals they are worth their weight in gold. There just about isn't anything you can't do with them.
If you don't see the light when turn the key on for a second it would appear as though the reciever module isn't getting power regardless if the fuses are good. BTW, the RDO and PKE fuses run the thing, check both.
Make sure your key in ignition chime is working also or the fob can't be programmed.
You do need the service manuals, I have a 96 and there is extensive schematics in it for the PKE system. Mine didn't work either when I bought mine, with the help of the manual I sorted everything out and it works flawlessy now.
Here's a write up I did some time ago that may help some. You will get zero codes if that key in ignition switch isn't working and the program mode will never flash the light.
Well you could have just monitored the lamp as you turned the key on to verify the bulb. It comes on for an instant.
Ensure you are performing the steps correctly:
Transmitter out of range >10'
Key in ignition and ON position
Push Trip/Odo twice
Within five seconds press and hold Fuel/Info
until the PKE lamp on the DIC panel comes on and stays on.
Turn the ignition to OFF. Most go too far and position the key to Lock. Make sure you stop at OFF, obviously leaving the key in. The PKE lamp will start flashing.
Bring the transmitter into range. When it is recognized the flashing PKE lamp will go steady.
Turn the key to lock and remove the key.
It should work now. If its a coupe test the hatch button and door button. Walk out of range with the doors close it should lock and beep the horn. If not it make be in the non passive mode, open the drivers door, press and hold the door unlock button on the transmitter. The locks should cycle. Then try it again. You can turn the passive mode on and off by the door button on the transmitter.
Thought I remembered you have to have your radio off.
By the way, was talking to a mechanic at a dealer near me and when testing for DLC codes. Shaking the transmitter only works if the transmitter is programmed for the car and the antennaes pick up the signal. This will not work on new fobs(ask me how I know)!!
I got home late last night so I didn't pull the car out of the garage. I don't remember if the radio was off or not but I'm always listening to the radio so it probably was on.
I'm a little confused here. (Big surprise.) One of the guys in our club just gave me his remote because he doesn't use it for his race only car. Does all of this stuff work to get it programmed for my car? OR is this all about just reprogramming the fob that came with the car?
I need to replace mine so I was watching this thread so I would know how to program it. My remote will open the hatch but not the doors and the system is enabled. Since I can't cycle the locks I can't disable / enable it when I need to.
Are PKE fobs only available from the dealer new? No aftermarket ones available? I would rather buy it new since I already have one old one that doesn't work like it should. Eckler's and Mid America don't have them.
I'm a little confused here. (Big surprise.) One of the guys in our club just gave me his remote because he doesn't use it for his race only car. Does all of this stuff work to get it programmed for my car? OR is this all about just reprogramming the fob that came with the car?
When you place the receiver into the programming mode, any transmitter (FOB) brought into range (one at a time and up to three) gets programmed. The transmitter each have a different frequency, the receiver in the door is listening for that signal and stores the code.
When I was helping someone recently program theirs, I completely forgot I had my transmitter in my pocket, so my FOB locks and unlocks her vette when I get near it. LOL she still needs to reprogram it to clear my fob from its list.