Try howeracing.com. They do a lot of custom stuff.

 

Corvette America. You've got a air flow problem.
Make sure theres no air in the system. Theres after market chips for Corvettes that will turn the fan on sooner. Thermomaster.

You can buy a by-pass for your car and turn the fan off and on when-ever you want. I did this in my Z-28 here we don't drive we join the parade at one point and leave at another.

108 degrees it must be nice, here its 50 degrees with a high of 64.

 

Hypertech thermomaster.

 

Our kit is $260, part number SP461. That replaces the stock duals with Spal dual, which is about twice the cfm. Brackets are included but not wires. You can use the existing stock wiring but the ends will have to be cut and spliced and the fuses may have to be increased.

Sorry about the voice mail, I didn't get one from you.

 

Ok Tom - i will take those fans. Please let me know the best way to get in touch with you for them, i have called for several days but just get voice mail, and i cannot find that model number on your website to order them from there.

 

FWIW, I have a '90, and live in Mesa, and commute to phoenix daily, and have the exact same problem. I've been all through the cooling system. Runs right in the middle all most all of the time, but sitting on US-60 in dead stop traffic on a phoenix desert summer day, it will hit 250-255. If you ever do manage to find something to fix that, please post, I'd love to see a solution that works.

_Scott

(ps - fan switches, new radiators, and rebuilt water pumps don't seem to compensate for 120 degree weather)

 

Scott, have you also done the increased CFM fans like i am proposing to do?

I am also considering an electric water pump...

 

This is an interesting thread. I have a 96 Coupe and live in Vegas, and I'm running an LT1 versus an L98, my setup may be different. I drive my Vette in the same temperature range (110 - 129 degrees) in heavy traffic and on the highway in LV and the Death Valley area with a totally stock cooling system and I have no problem with excessive temperatures or running the A/C in heavy traffic during extremely hot weather. I was considering replacement of the stock radiator only because I don't like the plastic tanks and I know they will eventually leak. I like the idea of having a solid (Meaning no plastic tanks) aluminum radiator for the durability, but one thing I didn't want to do was modify my fan shroud by trimming it down for the aluminum radiator to fit. I was looking for a direct replacement aluminum radiator with no modifications required. Since the stock system is performing so well, I believe I'll stick with it and just repair or replace the stock radiator when the time comes.

 

RIISITAS - i seriously would leave it alone till it leaks, as the combination to make them run cool seems to require as much voodoo as parts.

I also assume that running an LT1 is different than an L98.

 

It isnt different. The way to solve a problem is to ask for advice and then ignore it?

Arizona, California, Mexico hot is hot.
Theres no voodoo, its a mechanical problem, period.

 

No clue on the hostility there - as i posted in this thread i am TAKING your advice and buying replacement fans, based on having an airflow problem.

I just cannot for the life of me get Dewitts to call me back, or answer the phone, and his website does not have the model number on it for me to buy directly.

 

We'll we finally conected up today and the fans are going out Monday. You are right, this package is new and it's not on the web yet. As far as getting through on the phone, I'm working on that. I only have one line, and when I'm on that line, it goes to voice mail. Some people leave a message, and some don't. I try to call everyone back but 90% of the time, they are not there when I do. Another big problem I have is cell phone callers. You wouldn't believe how many people are driving alone and think, "hey, I'll order that radiator now", and the phone number they leave is area code 3rf-445-bg65. Well that's a little difficult to call back. We are starting to slow down, in fact today I think I got 5-6 phone calls all day long.

 

Sorry, no hostiiity intended. Cooling problem posts are a constant with the C-4.

 

The difference between the LT-1 and L98 cooling system is way different. I'm not sure how you could say otherwise. Sure they both have a radiator and a water pump but philosophically there are fundamental differnces.

 

Good point, but it still a cooling system and the same rules apply.

 

Sremenap,

It sounds like you might be having the same problem that sometimes happens in some sailboat diesel engines. An air bubble/pocket occurs due to hot spots caused by the radiator cap which isn't retaining pressure, or when there isn't enough of an air pocket to allow for a quick pressure build-up to 'push' air bubbles around the system.

Is the overflow recovery bottle fluid level going up when the temperature goes up? If so, it is possible the radiator cap is not retaining pressure as it should.

If the pressure is not being held in the system, spot-boiling could occur, causing air pockets that will restrict the coolant flow through the engine.

You mentioned a new radiator -- did you also install a new, quality brand, radiator cap (e.g. AC/Delco -- remember many aftermarket brands do not meet their marketed claims)?

Also, does your year car have an surge/expansion tank which is not overfilled so it still has its air pocket (like the LT1 engines -- 1992 through 1995)?

If no surge/expansion tank, are you leaving a little air space below the radiator cap (usually 1" or so) to allow for any created air bubbles/pockets a place to move to as well as having air which can be more quickly compressed, allowing for the pressure build-up to help move air bubbles along (air can be compress much more easily than water)?

Some other thoughts which probably don't apply as it sounds like you know what your doing:

Was the thermostat a quality brand (some aftermarket units do not open all the way/at rated temperatures)?

Is the ratio of anti-freeze to water no more than 60-70% (more than that can actually reduce the boiling point)? Was it a good quality brand, not dex-cool and the same type/chemistry as previous/original?

Did you pre-mix the anti-freeze or or add it straight (adding it straight can sometimes trap air due to the thickness of the anti-freeze)?

Hope this helps...

 

Excellent post - thanks theadmiral94.

I in fact DO NOT have a name brand cap - i have a Stant. I just assume that a delco cap is what i am looking for to replace it? I do have a surge tank, and i am draining the fluids and refilling with a new mix of coolant/water tomorrow. I will post results.

 

My "91" coupe's coolant gauge reads right in the middle with the AC On in stop and go traffic or freeway speeds in any temperature.

With the AC Off and in stop and go traffic, the temperature gauge goes very close to the Red Zone but, quickly goes down when the second fan turns on.

I back flushed the entire cooling system when I bought the Vette last year and filled the cooling system with 1 gallon of antifreeze and the rest water. Too much antifreeze will reduce the heat absorbing quality of the mixture. Also, I've found that the stock 190* thermostat works the best for me. I've tried a 160* and 180* thermostat with no improvements.

 

There is nothing wrong with the stock fans on a stock motor. I have been using a dual core Griffin radiator with an Ed Write chip that turns the fans on at 180.
Car has always ran well under 200 during all driving conditions in Hawaii, California, and Floriduh.

Get a chip that’ll turn the fans on earlier