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Been there, done that...twice! I did it a second time because I figured I must have really messed up the first time to have them crush. The second time I was very deliberate in making sure I did everything correctly. Same crushing result.
The silver lining was that when I got the real parts I did both sides in record time.
well i got a hold of wally at corvette generations, and he was nice enough to break down an assembly and send me the piece i need. should have it soon. i know i probably paid 5 times what the thing is worth, but also paid 5 times less then what the whole assmbly costs. on a side note i hope mine dont get crushed, if so at least i wont have problems taking it apart cause i'm not putting that stupid dowel back in that serves no purpose cause there's no way for it to move out of place when assembled.
I replaced my bushings in my 90 vert on Wednesday using the Home Depot part numbers. They crushed within a day. Last night I replaced them again in both headligths in under 45 minutes including installing/removing the headlight assemblies from the car. I used the parts from Mid America. The Mid America bushings were a solid piece of plastic, not hollow like the Home Depot bushings that crushed. I will take a pic of them and post it here after I dig them out of the trash. Today when I was at Autozone I saw the same bushings in the Help! section. The package said they were for window regulator. There were three in the package for $7.99.
Here is what the Home Depot bushings looked like once I pulled them out of the headlight motors.
*really big pic*
Those are the bushings inside the gear right? The three that sit in a triangular pattern?
If so, I can see why they failed. I think those are the wrong ones. The ones I used on my 90 Vert had nowhere near that much empty space in the middle. The size was 1/2 x .194 x 1/2 - only .194 center so there is plenty of meat. My lights have been working fine for months and I work nights so I use them quite a bit. My old thread
Those are the bushings inside the gear right? The three that sit in a triangular pattern?
If so, I can see why they failed. I think those are the wrong ones. The ones I used on my 90 Vert had nowhere near that much empty space in the middle. The size was 1/2 x .194 x 1/2 - only .194 center so there is plenty of meat. My lights have been working fine for months and I work nights so I use them quite a bit. My old thread
If you go the Home Depot route, the measurements are 27/64" x 29/64" You will need 3 packs of two for a total of 6 spacers to do both lights. The UPC code on the package is 30699 87278.
If you go the Home Depot route, the measurements are 27/64" x 29/64" You will need 3 packs of two for a total of 6 spacers to do both lights. The UPC code on the package is 30699 87278.
If you go the Home Depot route, the measurements are 27/64" x 29/64" You will need 3 packs of two for a total of 6 spacers to do both lights. The UPC code on the package is 30699 87278.
Those are the ones I bought that crushed. I took the UPC code to one of the workers and he looked it up in the computer and then took me to where they were in the metal bins and that is what I bought. It only cost me $1.39 including tax. They lasted about 1 day.
I used the steel shims option so i never have to worry about it again!! If it chews through them, there is something seriously wrong somewhere!!!
Probably will chew through one of your gears but your pins will still be usable! Looks like GM engineered a cheap fix for wear. I think the bushings are cheaper to replace then either of the gears will be.
Probably will chew through one of your gears but your pins will still be usable! Looks like GM engineered a cheap fix for wear. I think the bushings are cheaper to replace then either of the gears will be.
Yeah i wouldve been reluctant to do as i have done if the gears showed any signs of wear, but they were still looking like brand new, so id say ill be right there, even still, could always pull the gears out and turn them abit to get use out of the teeth that never get used.
Those are the ones I bought that crushed. I took the UPC code to one of the workers and he looked it up in the computer and then took me to where they were in the metal bins and that is what I bought. It only cost me $1.39 including tax. They lasted about 1 day.
Mine are still working like new money. There are other Forum members using HD bushings with no issues, too.
Yeah i wouldve been reluctant to do as i have done if the gears showed any signs of wear, but they were still looking like brand new, so id say ill be right there, even still, could always pull the gears out and turn them abit to get use out of the teeth that never get used.
I think all the teeth get used.
Even the factory bushings are the weak link in this system, but that's by design.
I agree with the hypothesis that the metal version you used will eventually stress and break your plastic gears. But being a fan of metal you'll be happy to know you can get copper gears out of the catalogs for ~$70 each.
Even the factory bushings are the weak link in this system, but that's by design.
I agree with the hypothesis that the metal version you used will eventually stress and break your plastic gears. But being a fan of metal you'll be happy to know you can get copper gears out of the catalogs for ~$70 each.
Speaking of stress, has anyone switched to plastic headlight lens covers instead of glass? They're supposed to reduce the load stress on the headlight motors and assisting mechanisms, but I've heard some of the cheaper offerings can fog up. Any experiences or reccomendations?
Speaking of stress, has anyone switched to plastic headlight lens covers instead of glass? They're supposed to reduce the load stress on the headlight motors and assisting mechanisms, but I've heard some of the cheaper offerings can fog up. Any experiences or reccomendations?
Good question. I never did but I think that only the pre '88 motors were strained by the glass lights. I think the '88 and up motors were beefed up to correct the issue.
Next time I need to replace the headlights I think I'm going to switch from the sealed beam type to the setup where you can just replace the halogen bulb.
Good question. I never did but I think that only the pre '88 motors were strained by the glass lights. I think the '88 and up motors were beefed up to correct the issue.
Next time I need to replace the headlights I think I'm going to switch from the sealed beam type to the setup where you can just replace the halogen bulb.
NAPA has a setup like that with a plastic lens that allows you to replace the halogen bulb. I think it's like $44.95.
I've said it many times before. Unless you really enjoy rebuilding your headlight motors, don't waste your time to save a couple of bucks. The Home Depot ones just won't last. I got less than a week out of mine.
Eckler's on the left, Home Depot on the right:
Big difference in size, too. That explains why the HD ones crushed.
The fit should be tight, and the cheap bushings were very sloppy.
I really like Home Depot, but they're not an auto parts store!
Last edited by behnevette; Feb 24, 2006 at 12:37 PM.
Interesting. The ones I got from Lowes actually appear to fit better than the Ecklers ones in that pic. They almost completly fill in the molded area. In fact, they fit a little too good as it can be a real pain to get the gear back together with the new ones in place.
I wish I had a digi-cam so I could have taken pics...darn it.
Last edited by Dale1990; Feb 24, 2006 at 12:50 PM.
Reason: Oops...
Good question. I never did but I think that only the pre '88 motors were strained by the glass lights. I think the '88 and up motors were beefed up to correct the issue.
Next time I need to replace the headlights I think I'm going to switch from the sealed beam type to the setup where you can just replace the halogen bulb.
My 89's have glass still from Bowling Green, stock.
My 93, I replaced the plastic (hazy lens) w/ glass -
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