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onedef92...there are your hollow aftermarket pieces. Seems we were both correct.
Ecklers = hollow
MidAmerica = solid
I learned something today.
I thought I'd seen 'em supplied both ways aftermarket. I just couldn't remember who supplied what. I still don't know why some users are experiencing premature failure from the hollow spacers, though. I don't see how torsional stresses could be so adversely applied to a rotating object, but then again, I'm no mechanical engineer.
I've said it many times before. Unless you really enjoy rebuilding your headlight motors, don't waste your time to save a couple of bucks. The Home Depot ones just won't last. I got less than a week out of mine.
Eckler's on the left, Home Depot on the right:
Big difference in size, too. That explains why the HD ones crushed.
The fit should be tight, and the cheap bushings were very sloppy.
I really like Home Depot, but they're not an auto parts store!
And to add another wrinkle, the Home Depot bushings I got did not fit cheap and were tight! And they're still holding up! And they're hollow, too.
I think it's a quality control issue with the HD bushings, but I'm still not convinced to write them all off as failure-prone.
If these HD bushings youre showing here are as hard as it seems youre saying they are, then youre no better off with them over steel shims in the long term, Time will be all that will tell what we see with the different methods we have all used here.
hi *89x2*! no, i never took the motor assembly off the car.from what i've read here on the forum the bushings can be changed out without the motor removal.the drivers side is the left side isn't it? the postings refer to the left side and i can remove the three screws and pull the gear out.but it looks like the whole assembly will have to be removed.thanks---john
I have been putting off the replacement of mine as well got them from midamerica,Looks like the best advice is to remove the whole assembly??
The time it takes to remove them and get them on your bench, you will save in the ease of working on the assembly while its off the car. Pretty simple to put back on too, would you agree with that 89x2?
Thank you sir, I was about to ask for the measurements.
No problem. Holler back if you need further tech support. I'm thinking about running a poll to see what the failure rate is for HD, Lowe's, AutzoZone, and other aftermarket bushings....
well i go that piece in today, slapped it back together during lunch. only problem is now the headlight sits lower then the hood, rather then flush. i didnt have time to look into it, but my guess would be that since i had to remove the whole assembly including lower and upper cover to get the piece in a vice, theres some play in the falt portion of the closed headlight. and i basically just tightend it without any adjustments. i cant think of anything else it be.
The time it takes to remove them and get them on your bench, you will save in the ease of working on the assembly while its off the car. Pretty simple to put back on too, would you agree with that 89x2?
I would agree that the time it took to remove the 4 nuts and 2 screws was time well spent - maybe 3 minutes total...
The flip side was, my back didn't hurt from bending over for the entire 30-40 minute job
well i go that piece in today, slapped it back together during lunch. only problem is now the headlight sits lower then the hood, rather then flush. i didnt have time to look into it, but my guess would be that since i had to remove the whole assembly including lower and upper cover to get the piece in a vice, theres some play in the falt portion of the closed headlight. and i basically just tightend it without any adjustments. i cant think of anything else it be.
I didn't remove any covers when I did mine. I just used a small punch and a hammer to tap out the roll pin. I actually used the top of the washer and ryer for my workbench.
guess you havent read the trouble i went through. the pin would not come out at all on the driver side. broke cpl punches and cpl drill bits trying to drill it out. ended up having to cut the bracket off. big pain, glad its over. glad everyone elses pins came out freely.
well i go that piece in today, slapped it back together during lunch. only problem is now the headlight sits lower then the hood, rather then flush. i didnt have time to look into it, but my guess would be that since i had to remove the whole assembly including lower and upper cover to get the piece in a vice, theres some play in the falt portion of the closed headlight. and i basically just tightend it without any adjustments. i cant think of anything else it be.
Sounds like your headlight door is misaligned. There's a screw on the underside of the door you can adjust to make it flush again.
Sounds like your headlight door is misaligned. There's a screw on the underside of the door you can adjust to make it flush again.
yea that was it. when i had the light mounted i took the top cover off and then untightened the bolts a bit and pushed it flush, then retightend. this happened since i had to take it apart with the trouble i had and put it together without it on the car.
i'll tell you i'm glad the ordeal is over. if these HD bushings fail on me i'm tossing this headlight system and getting the flush c6 style lights.
yea that was it. when i had the light mounted i took the top cover off and then untightened the bolts a bit and pushed it flush, then retightend. this happened since i had to take it apart with the trouble i had and put it together without it on the car.
i'll tell you i'm glad the ordeal is over. if these HD bushings fail on me i'm tossing this headlight system and getting the flush c6 style lights.
I think you'll be good. When I overhauled my headlamps, I broke both of the motor armatures and had to replace them.
I searched nearly two weeks before locating a local shop that sold Bosch eqivalents. I don't know who supplied the OEM units to GM. It was a labor of love, but I now have the satisfaction of knowing the job's done right and I can pass on what I've learned to other enthusiasts like yourself.
.....I can see why they failed. I think those are the wrong ones. The ones I used on my 90 Vert had nowhere near that much empty space in the middle. The size was 1/2 x .194 x 1/2 - only .194 center so there is plenty of meat......
Getting back a little late on this one, but it would seem this could easily be the answer as to why so many of us have had failures with the hardware store stuff. The HD ones measure .324" ID whereas the ones Dale1990 used (and had success with) have MUCH thicker walls with a .194" ID. As well as being almost .080" larger on the OD allowing for a tighter fit.
Here is a pic of the Home Depot ones that lasted four cycles on my 1988:
Getting back a little late on this one, but it would seem this could easily be the answer as to why so many of us have had failures with the hardware store stuff. The HD ones measure .324" ID whereas the ones Dale1990 used (and had success with) have MUCH thicker walls with a .194" ID. As well as being almost .080" larger on the OD allowing for a tighter fit.
Here is a pic of the Home Depot ones that lasted four cycles on my 1988:
Still, how do you explain the fact my HomeDepot bushings have lasted nearly four SEASONS?
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