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I've got a bee buzzing around in my bonnet. I don't want to go overboard. I'm looking for a little more power, and perhaps a little better milage. I do not want to get to invasive with the engine. That is something I have done before many times, but this vette I would like to be worth something when I am done. Ok here is my plan, submitted for your approval: Ram air, K&N filter, replace TB MAF coupler with nice smooth one (mostly for looks), Remove A.I.R. pump (not really for power, but it is nice to see your engine now, and again ), 1.6 roller rockers w/new stock springs, free flow dual exhaust (no cats), electric water pump, good cleaning of throttle body, flowmaster mufflers, and a chip reprogram. Tell me, am I on the straight and narrow??? Thanks, SB
Last edited by Steel Breeze; May 23, 2006 at 09:52 PM.
I've got a bee buzzing around in my bonnet. I don't want to go overboard. I'm looking for a little more power, and perhaps a little better milage. I do not want to get to invasive with the engine. That is something I have done before many times, but this vette I would like to be worth something when I am done. Ok here is my plan, submitted for your approval: Ram air, K&N filter, replace TB MAF coupler with nice smooth one (mostly for looks), Remove A.I.R. pump (not really for power, but it is nice to see your engine now, and again ), 1.6 roller rockers w/new stock springs, free flow dual exhaust (now cats), electric water pump, good cleaning of throttle body, flowmaster mufflers, and a chip reprogram. Tell me, am I on the straight and narrow??? Thanks, SB
Ram Air...waste of money
K&N...yes with a cut stock air lid
TB MAF coupler...waste of money (no real function)
A.I.R remove .....only for looks
1.6 RR.......yes about 20hp
Free flow exhaust.... a must for hp increase, use high flow cat
electric water pump.... never done it
cleanig TB.....reagular maintenance item
Flowmasters.....O.K.
Chip reprogram.....yes go with a custom tune and not Hypertech
Ram Air...waste of money
K&N...yes with a cut stock air lid
TB MAF coupler...waste of money (no real function)
A.I.R remove .....only for looks
1.6 RR.......yes about 20hp
Free flow exhaust.... a must for hp increase, use high flow cat
electric water pump.... never done it
cleanig TB.....reagular maintenance item
Flowmasters.....O.K.
Chip reprogram.....yes go with a custom tune and not Hypertech
What year vette?
Many Thanks Buddy, I have an 88 L98, Z51, 4+3. On the ram air. I was thinking about the unit that goes where your front license plate should go. I took 4 years auto mechanics in college. We were always taught cooler high velocity air was a good thing, but I am new to this type of intake system. I had a 74 vette a few years ago. No offence to my fellow vette owners, but the 74 was like a covered wagon compared to my 88... Thanks
Last edited by Steel Breeze; May 23, 2006 at 09:55 PM.
Yeah, I've seen them in Mid Amer, Ecklers, ect. They might give a little improvement in air flow being in the front bumper, but not the kind of flow that would be caught on the hood (Trans AM) IMO. For the money you will see very little improvement. Most guys here just use the K&N and stock air lid with the vents cut out. Wonder why GM never installed a ram air on the C4 vettes? Just my 2 cents.
Yeah, I've seen them in Mid Amer, Ecklers, ect. They might give a little improvement in air flow being in the front bumper, but not the kind of flow that would be caught on the hood (Trans AM) IMO. For the money you will see very little improvement. Most guys here just use the K&N and stock air lid with the vents cut out. Wonder why GM never installed a ram air on the C4 vettes? Just my 2 cents.
Your 2 cents is worth a mint. I will modify my air filter lid like you folks, and have extra money for more meaningful up grades. Thanks a million...
AO Forced air and SLP Ram Airs (True Ram airs, not the CLAW designs), are good and tested for .1 to .2 tenths and 1-2mph over an open airfilter lid and K&N. Not sure if they are worth the cost though..
Just my $.02:
If it were me and I really wanted to wake it up, I'd skip the motor mods for now and swap out my rear gears for something taller (depending on what you have). It can really wake the car up and give you a different "seat of the pants" feel. Just don't go overboard so that you can still cruise at highway speeds. But for normal cruising around, you can't beat the feeling of more torque.
I'm not a big fan of modifying a motor, epspecially if it has a lot of miles on it and things are beginning to wear. You end up tinkering with and adjusting everything all the time.
Like I said, just my $.02.
I'm gonna chime in here with my 2 cents. When I hear the term RAM AIR I think more of the mod that I've got on my hood. The air scoop on my car. When I purchased it, it was non-functional. Since I have the CFI the air duct for it is build into the hood. After carefully measuring and looking we found that we could cut it out and turn it into a functional unit. The air passes directly into the CFI. It was and expensive mod and we did prove during my dyno the other day the when we plugged the inlet I lost 7 hp. An expensive mod, for a very low gain. Was it worth it? NO, not for the amount of money I've got into it, but I do like the looks of it.
When we tested the K&N filter to see how much HP we gained with that, I think it only changed maybe 1hp. But at least with the K&N you won't have to buy filters anymore, just recharge it. Those units that go behind the liscense plate, don't waste your money.
I'm gonna chime in here with my 2 cents. When I hear the term RAM AIR I think more of the mod that I've got on my hood. The air scoop on my car. When I purchased it, it was non-functional. Since I have the CFI the air duct for it is build into the hood. After carefully measuring and looking we found that we could cut it out and turn it into a functional unit. The air passes directly into the CFI. It was and expensive mod and we did prove during my dyno the other day the when we plugged the inlet I lost 7 hp. An expensive mod, for a very low gain. Was it worth it? NO, not for the amount of money I've got into it, but I do like the looks of it.
When we tested the K&N filter to see how much HP we gained with that, I think it only changed maybe 1hp. But at least with the K&N you won't have to buy filters anymore, just recharge it. Those units that go behind the liscense plate, don't waste your money.
Ahhh, very interesting. being a ram air system, and you were on the dyno, there was no cool air being rammed into your air filter, as you were stationary. It would be interesting to see the #'s at 75MPH. Thanks for the comebacks people. I'm seeing a general consensus. Keep posting folks. I Thank You
I'm gonna chime in here with my 2 cents. When I hear the term RAM AIR I think more of the mod that I've got on my hood. The air scoop on my car. When I purchased it, it was non-functional. Since I have the CFI the air duct for it is build into the hood. After carefully measuring and looking we found that we could cut it out and turn it into a functional unit. The air passes directly into the CFI. It was and expensive mod and we did prove during my dyno the other day the when we plugged the inlet I lost 7 hp. An expensive mod, for a very low gain. Was it worth it? NO, not for the amount of money I've got into it, but I do like the looks of it.
When we tested the K&N filter to see how much HP we gained with that, I think it only changed maybe 1hp. But at least with the K&N you won't have to buy filters anymore, just recharge it. Those units that go behind the liscense plate, don't waste your money.
You can't dyno a ram air system, as you are not moving at 60mph or more, which will create the required pressure for the ram air effect.
You can't dyno a ram air system, as you are not moving at 60mph or more, which will create the required pressure for the ram air effect.
I see your point. We had a rather large fan in front of the car and the pull began at 63 mph to 123 mph.
Please explain to me why and how I lost 7 hp when we blocked the air scoop?
I see your point. We had a rather large fan in front of the car and the pull began at 63 mph to 123 mph.
Please explain to me why and how I lost 7 hp when we blocked the air scoop?
I believe you lost seven HP because the engine was being smoothered not able to get air. Much like being run on half choke for lack of a better example. However at 80 or 90 mph perhaps that 7 hp becomes 27 hp, and you are not aware of it. I think you are selling yourself short on the HP vs. Money equation. In other words you may have added alot more than you relize. Thanks buddy
When I bought my car a few yrs ago, it luckily already had the forced air induction scoop from Mid America and K&N. I've since ditched the K&N, it wasn't cleaning up too well anymore and was falling apart. I'd rather buy a cheap fram and change it out once a year. It's very easy to tell how dirty it is since it's white. The air scoop adds 100hp at 150mph.
From: Beautiful Down Town "SWINDLEHURST" Long Island NY
Posted awhile back was a vid, were two dyno pulls were done on different vehicles. One pull with nothing on the intake the second with a electric leaf blower jamed on the intake. Every car from the F-150 to the 2 ldr. ricemobile made more HP. On my "84" I cut a hole in the top of the rad. cover to match the oval hood opening---
I do feal a difference at top end. As soon as I can measure the air flow I'll post it.