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Ran out of gas.....
Took the car out of the garage and took it to work last night, alot of guys at work have been dying to see it since it is not my DD..So I was like why not, so on my way I notice my gas gauge was somewhat low but I figured it was good for the round trip.....WRONG!!! On the way back not 1/4 mile from the gas station car starts to sputter and then shuts off....I manage to coast it into a strip mall then woke up the wife told her get the gas can filler it up and come on over about 2 miles from the house....after pouring gas, 1st start still sputtered, then shut off second was the charm..straight to gas station $49.50 to fill.....
Just thought I would share my cherry popping experience......
Something like this happened to me. The fuel guage said 1/4 tank and I was almost at work. As I pulled in it went dead. It started back up and as I got to my parking spot it died and would not start back up. I ended up pushing the damn thing into the parking spot while some guy just watched me.
lol sadly i must say that happend to me about 2 weeks ago. first and hopefully last time i do that. I think my vert just didnt want me to make it to my morning meeting!!!
Ha, I know the feeling the first time I ran out,my gauge said I had a quarter of a tank,Reserve came on and said I had 49 Miles
not so .When that reserve comes on Look for a gas station...It's safer
1/4 tank is as close to empty I get. Can't remember the last time I needed a gas can except fot the lawnmower or the generator. Experience is the best teacher. Now your experienced.
My 'check gauges' light came on after running on reserve for 20 minutes, but never ran out. Since learning the fuel pump relies on gas to stay cool 1/4 is empty now.
My 'check gauges' light came on after running on reserve for 20 minutes, but never ran out. Since learning the fuel pump relies on gas to stay cool 1/4 is empty now.
at least in C-4's there is no need to drop the tank to change out fuel pump......
This happened to me twice. the first time I was on my way to vegas on a long trip and I was climbing a slighly angled highway and the tank read 3 bars, then it dies, and we had to toe it because I thought it was an engine issue lol..
the second time It was dark and late and no gas stations were open. Well.. one was half way open taking atm, but I was too young and only had cash
This mod may not make you go faster, but you will get there.
Tired of not having the gas gauge drop as you use gas. The inaccuracy was to much for me to stand so I investigated the problem. According to specs the float unit has a range of 0 to 90 ohms. I measured 20 to 110 ohms on my float unit. The 20 ohms representing the empty end and the 110 representing the full side (most other cars the low represented full but in the digital world they can do what the want).
The basic problem is the resistance doesn't not drop fast enough as gas is removed from the tank. I had to move the float arm to the 65 ohm point before it would indicate a one bar drop on the gas gauge. 75 to 110 ohms read full. It was not before I got down to about 37 ohms that I got a half tank indication on gauge. In reality the float resistance range is not properly matched to the electronics in the CCM. How to fix properly, you can’t unless you rewind the float wires (I don’t think so). So the best you can do (rather than redesign CCM) is to compensate for the problem. Make the resistance read lower faster as gas is burned. I added a 180 ohm resistor (yours might me slightly different) across the float unit, this will accomplish this. To little resistance and you will not get a full reading, to much and you are giving away accuracy which you a targeting in on. If I really really fill my tank I can get a full indication, if I let it click once or twice I might get a one bar down. I’m on the edge and I can live with that. But I do get more accurate readings right down to ¼ tank. Its not perfect, but I’m within 2 gallons or less when I get gas.
All you need to do is to add the resistor across the tank wiring. You do not need to take out the tank unit. Just remove the gas door and the rubber boot. Come back 6 inches or so from the tank unit and skin back the black and purple wires. I did not cut the wires, just removed about ¼ inch of insulation, wound the resistor ends around each wire and tape it up. I don’t think I soldered mine because I was not sure of the resistor I wanted to use and how the whole thing was going to work out so wanted the option of removing it easy. So temporary became permanent 2 years ago. Hope this can be of use to some of you.
P.S. - There are 3 wires. Black is ground and gray is power for the pump. The purple wire was not indicated the color for the float in the GM book, think it was green, don’t know why, will check again.
Also the fuel in the tank helps to cool the pump which will leeds to longer pump life. I always get gas before 1/4 tank.
remember brothers, where in your tank there is not gasoline, there is air.....air contains water and will "codense" into little droplets on the walls of your gas tank, as the temperature changes...that water ends up in your fuel! whether your air was from Arizona or Seattle does not matter....keeping your tank full allows NO room for air and it's water component... dd