Hello,
I just bought an '87 4+3 coupe with 58k original mi. (my first Corvette), so I'm a little tapped out. The car came with a hard top and a glass top
with a split in the (blue) plexiglass that the previous owner said has been there for some years. The split starts off at width of about 1.5 to 2mm (from the front of the car top) and tapers off and ends after 14". It starts about a third of the way over from the passenger door.

Does anyone have ideas on repairs (both functional ie vs. rain and cosmetic)? Functionally, would a silicon caulk work? which one? A local plexiglass place here said that's all they would do, and that the split seems to have stabilized. I know I could get the plexiglass replaced... probably run about $500 for repair and shipping which I don't have right now. If you do have recommendations or experiences regarding a replacement that would be good to hear, too, though. Also, if I replaced it I'd consider getting the gray in place of the blue tint -- anyone have a functional preference for the gray over the blue or vice versa? I've only seen gray on other cars.

Thanks for any responses.



[Modified by Dutch W., 9:35 PM 9/28/2001]

 

Not sure about yours ,but I broke a piece off of mine after dropping it. I got some plastic glue and re-fit it following instructions. It never leaked, but I could always see it as a hairline crack. I replace it Wed. with a new one.
If it isn't leaking It might not be worth trying to repair it..

 

BEFORE




AFTER




Good as new! :lol: :smash: I plan to replace my roof very soon :yesnod:


[edit] Yow!! Sorry bout the HUGE images :eek:


[Modified by A, 6:53 PM 9/28/2001]

 

If you need to prevent the crack from migrating, you can "stop drill" it. Use the absolute smallest drill bit you can find (probably 1/16" would work) and drill a hole at the very end of the crack. You want to be sure the the crack does not extend beyond the hole, or the crack will continue to migrate.

You can use Silicon sealant. Get the stuff that is clear and smells like vinegar. Use electrical tape to mask an area around the crack ie. crack in between two stripes of electrical tape. Apply the sealant from the tube, use your finger wrapped in a cellophane(sp?) sandwich bag to work the sealant into the crack, being careful not to get the sealant on the wrong side of your masking. After you're done with the sealant, carefully remove the tape, do this soon, as the tape will leave an adhesive residue if left out in thsun for too long.

Option 2: Replace top.

Good luck Grasshopper. :D

 

See if your insurance will cover a new top. Here in Massachusetts there is $0 deductible for glass coverage. My glass top was cracked, called them up, and they said no problem at all. They ordered me a brand new GM top to the tune of $1200 from the dealership the very next day.

 

The grey makes everything outside look dreary. Stay with the blue! :seeya

 

Hello,
Thanks for your responses.

Jack, I've worked with silicon caulk before, but don't know of anything with a vinegar smell. Is that marine caulk, maybe? Where can I get it? I was going to get the clear tub and bath sealer, but maybe that wouldn't hold up in the sun (?)

Scorp, the crack was there when I bought it, but thanks. Nice '87.

Mine is a real crack (width of 1.5-2mm to outside; ever narrowing to a hairline crack after maybe 4" where the pressure of the curve in the glass quits). Just an idea/brainstorming, but after siliconing in the crack, has anyone tried/what do you think of tinting it for added structural support and for a smooth surface on the inside? Any ideas for something on the outside? Can a person paint plexiglass (I wouldn't paint or block off the whole roof but rather would make a design or stripe)? If so, what (black) paint should you use on the outside?

Casper, I think you're right about the gray being drearier. Good point.

Thanks, all.



[Modified by Dutch W., 6:03 PM 9/29/2001]