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Headlight module.

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:13 AM
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Default Headlight module.

Hello

Got a probleme with my headlight/headlight moduel.
I know that the headlight moduel "feels" when the the headlight motors have reach its end points due to the higher current. Then it suppose to stop the motors. Right?

Well, I smelled burned plastic from the car yesterday, and I saw smoke coming out from the Headlight module. It seems like my headlight motors TRY to keep running even thou it reach its end points. Open or closed. I verifyed this with my hands, if I try to stop the headlight before it reach fully open the headlight motor keeps trying, fighting my hand.
The result is overheating in the Headlight module.
DOes this sound like a faulty Headlight module, or something else?

Thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:20 AM
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I'd say module, but you may have a shorted motor that caused. Check continuity on the motors before replacing the module.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
I'd say module, but you may have a shorted motor that caused. Check continuity on the motors before replacing the module.
Thanks..

Sorry, but could you explain a bit more. How do I check continuity?
My english is a bit poor..

Regards
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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bump for me.. The module is around $150, so any tips to test this before I order one would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Have you ever tried "wiggling" the connectors to make sure they're securely fastened... unplugging them, making sure they're in good shape, then re-plugging them in?

That was the problem with a buddy of mine on his 1995 'Vette. One wasn't secure. Yes, some relays go bad, but it isn't common.

But having bad gear bushings inside the headlight motor can also make the lights act like that too. If the light isn't popping-up, but you can hear its motor running, then you know your relay is good, and the bushings inside the gear have disintegrated. Sometimes they'll pop-up, but most of the time they won't.

You can order bushings online from Mid-America Corvette Parts or Eckler's. Good luck!
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
Have you ever tried "wiggling" the connectors to make sure they're securely fastened... unplugging them, making sure they're in good shape, then re-plugging them in?

That was the problem with a buddy of mine on his 1995 'Vette. One wasn't secure. Yes, some relays go bad, but it isn't common.

But having bad gear bushings inside the headlight motor can also make the lights act like that too. If the light isn't popping-up, but you can hear its motor running, then you know your relay is good, and the bushings inside the gear have disintegrated. Sometimes they'll pop-up, but most of the time they won't.

You can order bushings online from Mid-America Corvette Parts or Eckler's. Good luck!

Go with the bushings first. Less than $10. Best instructions are in the Dec 2006 issue of Corvette Magazine.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dtomar

Go with the bushings first. Less than $10. Best instructions are in the Dec 2006 issue of Corvette Magazine.
I mis-read you original post. However, the module should have timed out after 6-7seconds to prevent problem such as these. The fact that you can stop the headlamps with your hand indicates the bushings are shot. The smoke and the failure to time out would still indicate a bad module. To check continuity you use an ohm meter and measure across the two wires on the motor conector. It should have resistance (none or very little means a short). That the motors are running would generally mean they are not shorted. However, check the wiring to make sure its not pinched or shorting to ground between the module and the motors.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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I thougt that if the "bushings are shot", the headlight motor would continue to run ( you would hear it/ se it )when the light where fully open/Closed?
Or that the headlight dident mange to close or open full?
That is not the case here. The headlight does close and open perfect and I cant hear the headlight motor run when the lights are closed/open full.
BUT what is strange is that I still got 12v at the motor when the lights are fully open / closed. And that leads to a overheated control module.
The control module dont shut of the 12v when it should, when it feels the increased current drawn from the headlight motors..
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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You should have 12 volts on both wires, the module drops the 12v on one side (wire) to open or shut the circuit to run the motor in each direction. Other than the smoke it doesn't sound like you have a problem. You're correct about the bushings/pellets, but they will "slip" before they completely disintegrate. It now sounds as though they are operating and shutting/timing off correctly. Maybe your smoke came from something else (water,etc? dripping or spraying on the module.) I don't think the module should be hot though, in normal conditions. It is has voltage at all times, even when the ignition is off.

Last edited by zr1fred; Feb 28, 2007 at 05:11 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Well i open up the module and one of the transistors is toast. Its a buz10 unit, pretty commond. I order 2 new transistors to replace it with. Hope it work..
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