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Without a clutch and manual transmission, shifting an auto just doesn't feel the same so I mostly leave mine in OD on the highway and D everywhere else.
The bottom line is, an automatic is made to shift on it's on thus the term automatic. Upshifting is fine once it reaches it's redline but no higher. Downshifting is fine occassionally when going down steep hills or constant braking is needed for winding roads. I upshift mine occassionally just for the feel and the sound. Do it to much and you will be walking. Take my words with a grain of salt. Everyone has a different experience so some will disagree with me. Have fun but don't tear up your tranny unless you have some money ~1500 dollars~ put away for a transmission rebuild.
Thanks for all the feed back, everyone. I guess I'll be doing some up shifting from time to time and avoiding down shifting. It's kind of fun to wind her up a bit in first and second occasionally. Usually if I have to pass someone on the freeway, I just stomp it while in Drive and breeze on by.
I was unaware that c4's had such an issue with speedo's. Wow upper 90's and 100 in second gear, what's the trick? Is it a 1.90 axle ratio or 25" tires? Or maybe the 9,000rpm L98 & LT1 now available.
I did some serious shifting today, like you guys are talking about, and it kicked really hard when I was up shifting and winding out, way harder than the auto itself. I have done it all the time, but today I pushed it, sucker ran great in 30 degree weather LOL!
I was unaware that c4's had such an issue with speedo's. Wow upper 90's and 100 in second gear, what's the trick? Is it a 1.90 axle ratio or 25" tires? Or maybe the 9,000rpm L98 & LT1 now available.
I know it's hard to comprehend, but the speed is a factor of the oddball 2.59 final drive that some ***-head at GM came up with to satisfy some CAFE standard. When you plug the numbers into this speed calculator- http://www.kabamus.com/garage/gears.html
...you get 100.99 mph in 2nd gear, and I can personally vouch for this.
Somebody can correct my numbers, but here is what I entered for my '93 LT1 automatic to get this:
The 2.59s are so dumb... accelerating from a dead stop you'd swear the car was hooked to a 45-foot horsetrailer, and cruising at 70mph with the engine at idle speed is weird. Unless you stomp the gas to make the trans kickdown there is ZERO responsiveness. I've driven an LT1 with no mods save a 3.73 gear and it felt like it had 100 more hp than my car. I know GM did them to satisfy some federal regulation, but I don't know of any other "performance" car that is a contemporary of a C4 that has this feature.
Even with a shift kit I was told only to shift up through the gears and not back through them while slowing down, twice as much wear I suppose.
Don't see the logic in that ,the trans has to shift down sometime, whether you do it or it does itself , you are only dealing with the bands/ clutchs engaging;
with a shift kit the operation time is faster than stock reducing heat/ wear because of less slippage time involved.
Same as dropping the clutch v riding it with a stick.
I have a quality shift kit in my rebuilt trans and shift it both up and down when the "need for speed" arises.
Use engine braking on long downhill winding roads just like a stick. Magic
rodj, that is good to know, because I used to drive my other one like that, and never had a problem, but in this tame one, I only down shift it like that once in a while, but I love downshifting for a huge curve and pulling right through it!!!
One thing nobody mentioned is that you should ALWAYS use manual 1st when racing or accelerating hard from a stop. This applies an extra clutch to make the trans stronger and less likely to fail!!!
That being said, shifting manually or letting the trans do the selection makes no difference in the life of the trans on upshifting, it is a factor of how hard you are driving the car. A/T's build a great deal of heat so a trans cooler gets a real workout when beating on the car.
Downshifting is very hard on the clutches and you are better off using the brake pedal. Much cheaper to put a set of brake pads in than rebuild the trans. I still downshift on occasion just for the rush and the popping from the pipes! Afterall, it is a sportscar right?
Downshifting is very hard on the clutches and you are better off using the brake pedal. Much cheaper to put a set of brake pads in than rebuild the trans.
I was unaware that c4's had such an issue with speedo's. Wow upper 90's and 100 in second gear, what's the trick? Is it a 1.90 axle ratio or 25" tires? Or maybe the 9,000rpm L98 & LT1 now available.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I was trying to figure out how they were going so fast.
I know it's hard to comprehend, but the speed is a factor of the oddball 2.59 final drive that some ***-head at GM came up with to satisfy some CAFE standard. When you plug the numbers into this speed calculator- http://www.kabamus.com/garage/gears.html
...you get 100.99 mph in 2nd gear, and I can personally vouch for this.
Somebody can correct my numbers, but here is what I entered for my '93 LT1 automatic to get this:
The 2.59s are so dumb... accelerating from a dead stop you'd swear the car was hooked to a 45-foot horsetrailer, and cruising at 70mph with the engine at idle speed is weird. Unless you stomp the gas to make the trans kickdown there is ZERO responsiveness. I've driven an LT1 with no mods save a 3.73 gear and it felt like it had 100 more hp than my car. I know GM did them to satisfy some federal regulation, but I don't know of any other "performance" car that is a contemporary of a C4 that has this feature.
I went to the site and input the numbers. It isn't your fault that the dumba55 that created that data calc used tire diameter instead of radius in his equation. I know what the 2.59 will run in second, because I used to have the gear until last year. I have a tuned chip in my car and slight intake mods and can get to around 6800 rpm and would hit close to 80mph in second. Plug in for tire diameter in that calculator (8.5in) and look at those results and then get into your car and put it in second gear and see what it will do. I'm not calling anyone out, we just need to keep it real.
you should ALWAYS use manual 1st when racing or accelerating hard from a stop. This applies an extra clutch to make the trans stronger and less likely to fail!!!
I went to the site and input the numbers. It isn't your fault that the dumba55 that created that data calc used tire diameter instead of radius in his equation. I know what the 2.59 will run in second, because I used to have the gear until last year. I have a tuned chip in my car and slight intake mods and can get to around 6800 rpm and would hit close to 80mph in second. Plug in for tire diameter in that calculator (8.5in) and look at those results and then get into your car and put it in second gear and see what it will do. I'm not calling anyone out, we just need to keep it real.
some of these guys are talking lt1's so they might be able to
wind out quite a bit longer than us, but I have done like 90 in 2nd gear with a stock tpi going through curves with a 4+3 3.07 rear end tpi car chasing me, and I garuntee he was well into third:o
What gears do you have now? what is 2nd peak?
Last edited by pologreen1; Feb 15, 2009 at 01:35 AM.
My tranmission builder added a extra "clutch pack" but I don't have the 4L60. I didn't think autos used clutches? I am no expert. Just trying to figure out about clutch in a auto since it was brought into this thread.
My tranmission builder added a extra "clutch pack" but I don't have the 4L60. I didn't think autos used clutches? I am no expert. Just trying to figure out about clutch in a auto since it was brought into this thread.
I think that this is quite common for high torque builds. If I remember correctly my guy did the same when he built mine to handle 500+ ftlbs
[QUOTE=9340Ruby;1568943165]Downshifting is very hard on the clutches and you are better off using the brake pedal. Much cheaper to put a set of brake pads in than rebuild the trans.
Downshifting would be be harder on the 2-4 band then the clutches. The "extra clutch" that was mentioned is the overrun clutch. It is appied in all manual gears. You can increase the number of friction and steels in the 3-4 clutch for more holding power.
No, it does not hurt the transmission to manually upshift or downshift. Just use common sense.