90 through 96 Reliability Question
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
Likes: 4
From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
It has been the most reliable car I have ever owned. My car is completely stock. As of today the odometer has 191,XXX miles. I has never left me stranded. The most important ride you can have in any car is the ride home and I have always made it home. I'll second the weatherstrip comments. What Have I replaced? The tranny went out at 182,XXX miles, I replaced the injectors, all u-joints, shocks, heater core, waterpump, tioming gears/chain and harmonic balancer. You can expect to replace these items on any car with the 100,000 + miles. Some items needed to be RRed and some I just did while I was doing some other repair or routine maintenence. Like another poster said, buy a car in the best condition you can afford. An extra 2K on the initial buying is well worth the money as you can see what I have spent on my car to keep it running strong. I have never seen one that does not leak a little oil or need a little TLC. There is always something that you can do to a C4 to make it closer to showroom condition. Some can be rough around the edges and eventually shine like a new diamond. I all depends on how much money you want to spend - either on the initial purchase or to bring it back to road worthy condition. Learn to work on your own car and you'll be money ahead.Personally, I would not buy a modded car. There is too many unknowns and most mods don't work as advertised or compromise the car in some way.
If you are not sure what you are looking at when you find the "one car", then take it to a reputable mechanic and let them put it on the computer scanner and go over the car. It is money well spent. I bought my car with every reciept that wes ever spent on the car - from tires to any dealer repair. It was not very many reciepts, but I had the history. The sticker on the car was $43,000+ and I bought it for a fraction of that and still had a relatively new car.
Good luck in your search.
Barry
If you are not sure what you are looking at when you find the "one car", then take it to a reputable mechanic and let them put it on the computer scanner and go over the car. It is money well spent. I bought my car with every reciept that wes ever spent on the car - from tires to any dealer repair. It was not very many reciepts, but I had the history. The sticker on the car was $43,000+ and I bought it for a fraction of that and still had a relatively new car.
Good luck in your search.
Barry
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 47
From: South Florida
I will be honest and tell you that if I was to buy another C4 (and I plan to in the future) I would settle for nothing less than a 95-96 garaged kept with less than 40-50k miles. It would have to be at least a 8.5 out of 10 overall condition before I would pull any trigger.
One in average to bad condition will consume your life...or at least that is what I hear from my wife.
I believe that GM just about got everything right by 95-96 (bumper to bumper).
One in average to bad condition will consume your life...or at least that is what I hear from my wife.
I believe that GM just about got everything right by 95-96 (bumper to bumper).
I agree totally but alot of people are not willing to pay the premium for one such car.......I myself don't mind paying a bit extra for a prime example but not some crazy prices I have seen online.........
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
Most Desirable C-4
I have owned and wrenched and raced several C-4s, my first was a a new 86. My current is a 1995 bought back in Sept 2009, LT-1, Basic, 6 speed, 81,000 miles, 2 owners (I am thenew the 3rd owner). I have had it on the blocks since purchase going thru the known problems and bringing the rolling system back to new condition. I have about finished and am impressed with the improvements since '86. The vented optispark being one of the most impresive. The J-55 brakes are great. The FX-3 Selective Ride is a throwaway, IMO, replaced with stock Bilsteins. The suspension is in remarkable condition, however, I did replace all rubber with polys. I didn't set out to buy a 1995, however, if I was going to buy a C-4 (great price/performance car), I would look for a 1994-95, LT-1, with less ten 100,000 miles (milage may not be that important) and a several times a week driver. Price in the $8500 to $10,000 here in Texas. The car was exceptional clean when I bought it, but had no maintennace other than regular oil changes. The owner was not mechanically inclined and did not get his hands dirty. I'm retied Engineer, with a great shop, tools, dignostics, time and desire to run a C-4. the advantage (if any) of being 70.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 1
From: La Grange IL
Here are some other things not mentioned
Obviously the 1996 has the OBDII
1994 and 1995 have the OBDII connections, but are truly only OBDI.
PKE passive entry started in 1993 and many owners, including myself, have has issues or replaced.
1993 or 1994, switched to 134a for the A/C so that could come into play for servicing.
I have a 1994 and went for the dual airbags. If I went shopping again I would have looked for one with J55 brakes. Get the zf6 and, as stated earlier, no reason for the fx3, it isnt that great and a repair headache.
Make sure to really test the car, including the brakes. There are a number of issues with "hardening" of the brakes (read limited stopping power) so do a search and read about it. I had it and it took me some time to resolve.
1994 and 1995 have the OBDII connections, but are truly only OBDI.
PKE passive entry started in 1993 and many owners, including myself, have has issues or replaced.
1993 or 1994, switched to 134a for the A/C so that could come into play for servicing.
I have a 1994 and went for the dual airbags. If I went shopping again I would have looked for one with J55 brakes. Get the zf6 and, as stated earlier, no reason for the fx3, it isnt that great and a repair headache.
Make sure to really test the car, including the brakes. There are a number of issues with "hardening" of the brakes (read limited stopping power) so do a search and read about it. I had it and it took me some time to resolve.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
i too have seem a few prices that seem steep. what in your opinion would be reasonablr for a 50k mile 6speed 95 or 96?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Great post, weather stripping and suspension issues everyone seems to have, stuff that I can live with. The only thing I havent haerd much of is the Optispark, which seems to be major issue? I understand its quite a task to get to for a maintenance item, but exactly how prone are they to failure (for example once every 30K or much more frequently than that)? What I'm looking for is a 95 or 96 6 speed with around 60K that I plan on putting 3K to 5K miles a year on. Also, I noticed you excluded the 96 LT4 from your recommended list, any particular reason? Thanks
I have owned and wrenched and raced several C-4s, my first was a a new 86. My current is a 1995 bought back in Sept 2009, LT-1, Basic, 6 speed, 81,000 miles, 2 owners (I am thenew the 3rd owner). I have had it on the blocks since purchase going thru the known problems and bringing the rolling system back to new condition. I have about finished and am impressed with the improvements since '86. The vented optispark being one of the most impresive. The J-55 brakes are great. The FX-3 Selective Ride is a throwaway, IMO, replaced with stock Bilsteins. The suspension is in remarkable condition, however, I did replace all rubber with polys. I didn't set out to buy a 1995, however, if I was going to buy a C-4 (great price/performance car), I would look for a 1994-95, LT-1, with less ten 100,000 miles (milage may not be that important) and a several times a week driver. Price in the $8500 to $10,000 here in Texas. The car was exceptional clean when I bought it, but had no maintennace other than regular oil changes. The owner was not mechanically inclined and did not get his hands dirty. I'm retied Engineer, with a great shop, tools, dignostics, time and desire to run a C-4. the advantage (if any) of being 70.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 64
From: Roanoke Va
Lol come on we should all know the less electronic crap on the car the more reliable.
That means it would be the 84 CFI.
The more sensors and crap on the car the more stuff to go wrong which ever has the least would be the most reliable.
But since ad says 90=96 id say 91 last year for the tpi less electronics then the lt1 and a proven solid motor.
No Opti spark to deal with = 1000$ if you gotta pay somebody the L98 91 has a distributor cap you can get for 20 bucks and change in 10mins.
Yes those later lt1's may have more goodies but that's just more that can go wrong.
That means it would be the 84 CFI.
The more sensors and crap on the car the more stuff to go wrong which ever has the least would be the most reliable.
But since ad says 90=96 id say 91 last year for the tpi less electronics then the lt1 and a proven solid motor.
No Opti spark to deal with = 1000$ if you gotta pay somebody the L98 91 has a distributor cap you can get for 20 bucks and change in 10mins.
Yes those later lt1's may have more goodies but that's just more that can go wrong.
Last edited by Jamie Lennartson; Apr 22, 2010 at 12:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Yeah I guess my sleep deprevation got the best of me. I guess the first year of a load of new electronics has to be worst than the last. I geuss my reasoning was that they would have gotten the optispark right by then but there seems to be no indication of that. Thanks for your input.
Lol come on we should all know the less electronic crap on the car the more reliable.
That means it would be the 84 CFI.
The more sensors and crap on the car the more stuff to go wrong which ever has the least would be the most reliable.
But since ad says 90=96 id say 91 last year for the tpi less electronics then the lt1 and a proven solid motor.
No Opti spark to deal with = 1000$ if you gotta pay somebody the L98 91 has a distributor cap you can get for 20 bucks and change in 10mins.
Yes those later lt1's may have more goodies but that's just more that can go wrong.
That means it would be the 84 CFI.
The more sensors and crap on the car the more stuff to go wrong which ever has the least would be the most reliable.
But since ad says 90=96 id say 91 last year for the tpi less electronics then the lt1 and a proven solid motor.
No Opti spark to deal with = 1000$ if you gotta pay somebody the L98 91 has a distributor cap you can get for 20 bucks and change in 10mins.
Yes those later lt1's may have more goodies but that's just more that can go wrong.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 64
From: Roanoke Va
Yeah I guess my sleep deprevation got the best of me. I guess the first year of a load of new electronics has to be worst than the last. I geuss my reasoning was that they would have gotten the optispark right by then but there seems to be no indication of that. Thanks for your input.
Its a dam fancy distributor cap come on jeez.
L98 20 bucks and 10 mins a 10 yearold could change it.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 20,974
Likes: 261
Yeah I guess my sleep deprevation got the best of me. I guess the first year of a load of new electronics has to be worst than the last. I geuss my reasoning was that they would have gotten the optispark right by then but there seems to be no indication of that. Thanks for your input.
If you want a fun car get in to a 95-96 6spd, and do 4.10 gears, and have a blast. You won't regret it. Any other C4 you will be paying catch up in every way to make it like the newest one.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 80
From: Hawaii
Yeah I guess my sleep deprevation got the best of me. I guess the first year of a load of new electronics has to be worst than the last. I geuss my reasoning was that they would have gotten the optispark right by then but there seems to be no indication of that. Thanks for your input.
Early opti (92-94) had a problem when moisture got into it. Later model opti (95-97) corrected the problem by venting the unit.
If you get a early model opti, the unit can be modified to vent to correct its weakness.
Replacing a opti is also not as bad as it is made out to be. If you can do your own repairs, you would be suprised how simple the replacement actually is. IMO the hardest part is to drain the radiator coolant.
Take a look at this thread, it should help.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-failures.html
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,588
Likes: 10
From: North New Jersey
